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  #2493193 27-May-2020 21:56
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Bearers & Joists laid – The Spa area, I designed a lot ‘stronger’ to cater for the weight, and eliminate movement/vibration.

 

Click to see full size

 

Click to see full size

 

 

 

Click to see full size

 

Oh – while im on this Pic, - I must mention, that I decided to go “stainless everything”……..not a lot more cost, and I am in a coastal area(like most of NZ…..)


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  #2493197 27-May-2020 21:59
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Top & Bottom Deck’s taking shape.

 

Click to see full size

 

Click to see full size

 

I love the colours of the Kwila, Specially when it is wet!
I was tough on my builder and made him do some “grading” of the colours – the darkest boards, I wanted saved for the Walkway to the Door & Steps, - to make this a bit of a darker 'feature'

 


Click to see full size

 

The rest I wanted the darkest against the house, fading out to lighter, as you get further away from the house.
(Fortunately he was patient – but he charged me accordingly …….. boy do builders know how to charge!!)

 

 

 

 

 

Here you can also see the fact that there are apsolutely NO screws visable!
I used Shadow Deck fasterners system, - and I love it!
http://shadowdeck.co.nz/
It looks stunnings and no trouble – I might make the builder put a ‘double fasterning’ where Boards join next time  (because board width varies a few mm, which was a pain)

 

It did mean I needed to buy ‘groved boards’ which were slightly more expensive – but hey it was worth it!
At this point I decided to go with the ‘slightly crowned’ boards too – which reduces concave/convex risk, and helps the water run off.


 
 
 
 


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  #2493199 27-May-2020 22:04
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Steps,
3 Pics,
Pic 1) Layout, of the steps – Here the Builder came up with a edging/bullnose option, which fascinatingly has a “LED Lighting grove” underneath, - I though this was a fantastic idea, - I could fully light every step with ‘hidden’ lighting.
 –  Being the Geekzoner that I am, I jumped at the idea – It cost a little more, but hey – do it once, do it right – right?

 

Click to see full size
I then decided to run this same ‘bullnose’ with LED Lighting strip around both the lower Spa deck, and Upper Enteraining Deck,

 

Pic 2
Originally I thought it would look best – if the ‘lines/gaps, between the boards would look best, if they lined up – But once the builder go it done, Trimmed to widths,
(and planed each board, to make sure it had some form of crown)

 

Click to see full size
I looked at it and thought Yuck!

Pic 3
And made him rip it up again, and we changed the ‘run’ of the boards on the steps.
Click to see full size

 

Pic 4
Note : These boards (for the steps & the boarder & the walkway up to the front door)
Have all been oiled with ‘tinted’ CD-50 oil – this was one of my mistakes……
Click to see full size

 

(The final result(layout of the Boards on the Steps), looks WAY nicer!)

 

 


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  #2493202 27-May-2020 22:07
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Main deck – Kwila, & CD-50 Oiling
It looked good, but washes off after only 3 weeks – I spent $1,000’s on buckets and buckets of the stuff! – I got a good 8-12 coats on some areas, and it still kept washing off!!
DON’T USE CD-50 OIL, - unless it is an “inside” deck……

 

(you will also notice, I replaced the Lounge Window, with some ‘fully opening Bi-Fold Doors’)
One of my best choices – Again – Builder came up with two options, then I worked out the best one to suit. (there goes another $6,000)
Click to see full size

 

 

 

Main Deck constructed & Eves Lighting done,
Eves lighting……..this was expensive for me, $4,000 for 9 LED dimmable downlights on 2 circuits.
(the problem was – the suffet was asbestos board and was a major exercise to drill the holes through it – in hindsight, I should have got the whole lot ripped out and replaced with Marine ply or similar, - THEN got the Electrician to install the LED Downlights.

 

Click to see full size


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  #2493206 27-May-2020 22:13
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Now for the Vitex,

 

While ‘yes’ it is slightly shorter lengths than Kwila
Its not a ‘huge’ amount different, and you wont really notice it.

 

I used the Vitex on the Balustrades / Enclose spa area, to ‘match in’ with the colouring of the house…

 

I oiled it all with 1-2 coats of CD-50, before giving it to my Builder.
Click to see full size

 


I must also say, there was a lot more ‘imperfections and blemishes in the Vitex - & I even had to send one pack back – because it clearly had not been graded……
Click to see full size

 

I also noticed – that there was a significant variation in colouring, from “light honey” to “dark gravy” in the Vitex boards – I again battled my Builder, and made him grade it all so all darkest boards were at the house end, and it lightened as it came out to the lawn.
Click to see full size
(3 years later, it has surprisingly – pretty much all ‘evened out’ in colour so that turned out not really necessary…….on the other hand, the Builder made a lot more money out of me for his efforts.

 

This pic shows the start of pergola and enclosed Spa area, starting to build on the Left.
Click to see full size

 

 


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  #2493211 27-May-2020 22:21
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Balistrade [2]

 

At this point – along with a “no visable nails policy”……I decided I wanted to do a “formed” top Balistrade rail – rather than a 140x40 boring square board!
1) I wanted to out some LED Groves underneath it, so I could run Lighting around both the inside and outside of the top rail,
2) I wanted to angle it so the water would run off better, and reduce the risk of it warping
So I decided to go 1/3, 1/3, 1,3 (1/3 middle flat to allow you to sit your beer on it, and the other 2/3 angled off nicely.
Click to see full size

 

You will also see some “rain groves” which stops the water coming all the way into the wider LED groves. (I learned this, from looking at the “LED Bullnose” I used on the steps, and around the Deck edging…..)

 

Click to see full size

 


The Builder made another great suggestion,
To step the deck “under-full” back under the deck, by 140mm, and stain it BLACK, to make the deck appear to ‘float’ – that worked out extremely well –
Click to see full size
I love it – but the builder did use that as an excuse to bleed my wallet a little more….
(I also decided to make and install ‘copper endcaps’ on the end of any exposed bearers/joists)

 

Mostly done,
Still battling using the CD-50 oil which simply washes off!!

 

Click to see full size

 

I then decide to change over to Cabbots “Natural”(colour)  Oil based Decking oil, -
So started a 1-2 year exercise, stripping the remaining CD-50 oil,
and re-oiling the whole deck,  - im still finding I need to give it 3 coats over 12 months, to get a really decent “base” to it – and some area’s, I didn’t get 2nd / 3rd coats on soon enough, and I have had to strip them again, and redo.

 

The Steps/Walkway/Boarder – is stripped of tinted CD-50 and Im oiling that with Sikkens “Teak” tinted Oil – that has been way better,
Except – one thing I haddnt thought about – is heat during Summer
Dark colours get very hot (specially on little 2yo feet……)
Click to see full size
Im now trying to decide, if I just do the boarders & Bullnose of each step Dark – and somehow ‘whitewash/or let it silveroff on the main walkway/Mid -step……. – still undecided,????….

 

A few different options - showing on the steps in that pic.

 

 

 

Oh – Weed mat! – Make sure you put Weedmat under your decks, 2 x layers running one way & 2 layers running at 90 degrees should about do it!




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  #2493212 27-May-2020 22:22
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Excellent write up. Those 9 eaves LED lights @ $4k sure are very expensive.

My builder has said that weed Matt is not required because no light will go underneath the deck for grass etc to be able to grow.





Do whatever you want to do man.

  

 
 
 
 


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  #2493213 27-May-2020 22:24
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Bleeding?
Really this was a ‘non-issue’ for both the Kwila & the Vitex
It bled out over 6 months period – and even know I had concrete next to it – it never really ‘stained’ the concrete – it easily ‘water blasted’ off that surface

 

Hopefully the pic’s also show the difference in colours/looks

 

Overall its ended up an Awesome Deck – and I don’t regret doing it.

 

What bled the most was my Wallet………
I could have brought a brand new Subaru for what it has cost me so far!!….. :-)

 

Ive still got a bit to do =
Finish the gate (I have problems with the ‘self closing hinges’ ‘sagging’ in the heat of summer – due to the movement in the hinge mechanism, and the fact they are  plastic
( and that is without it fully clad – I have to add another 30% weight to it yet.) – I may have to add a set of stainless hinges – but I have to get the ‘centres’ of those to match up with the self closing hinge centres – otherwise to will “bind”,

 

 And I need to finish putting ‘cross runners’ on the Spa panels – but this requires a bunch of work on my part - as my builder retired (& I got tired of keeping paying him more and more)
(and of couse, I have to keep to my ‘no visible nails’ strategy)

 

& I have only put some ‘uplighting’ in the Spa area (not wired up yet)
And I need to do a huge exercise in LED lighting all over the place, and work out what, and how many circuits………


neb

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  #2493790 28-May-2020 16:39
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Bung: I was talking to a builder about dropsaw blades and he mentioned how hard plastic decking was on blades. He used 2 blades on a big job and at ~$200 a shot that has to be built into the costing. I don't know whether this was something that was just wrong choice of blade or not.

 

 

If he's paying $200 a blade that'd be some high-end Diablo or similar, which I'd say is the wrong blade from an economic point of view. Buy a bunch of $20 Chinese TCT blades and treat them as disposable.

neb

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  #2493794 28-May-2020 16:49
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concordnz: I then decide to change over to Cabbots “Natural”(colour)  Oil based Decking oil,

 

 

Ugh, I'd avoid Cabots like the plague, their (cough) "Natural" is fine if you want your deck to end up looking like Trump, but not otherwise. You also have to be very careful how you apply it, paint or spray it in a thin coat and give it at least a week to set between coats or you'll end up with a sticky mess that never stops being tacky.

neb

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  #2493796 28-May-2020 16:51
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billgates:

My builder has said that weed Matt is not required because no light will go underneath the deck for grass etc to be able to grow.

 

 

Stuff will always find a way to grow under your deck even with minimal light. You'll just get ferns or similar growing under there, but then they won't be able to come up through the deck so it won't matter that much.

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  #2493802 28-May-2020 16:59
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neb:
concordnz: I then decide to change over to Cabbots “Natural”(colour)  Oil based Decking oil,
Ugh, I'd avoid Cabots like the plague, their (cough) "Natural" is fine if you want your deck to end up looking like Trump, but not otherwise. You also have to be very careful how you apply it, paint or spray it in a thin coat and give it at least a week to set between coats or you'll end up with a sticky mess that never stops being tacky.

 

What would you suggest as an alternative? and why?
Im keen to hear, your thoughts, the Cabbots is way better than the CD-50 - but still a lot of work.....

(It feels like ive spent close to $5k on oil/stain - so whats a few more grand, to get it right.....)

 

 


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  #2493803 28-May-2020 17:02
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neb:
Bung: I was talking to a builder about dropsaw blades and he mentioned how hard plastic decking was on blades. He used 2 blades on a big job and at ~$200 a shot that has to be built into the costing. I don't know whether this was something that was just wrong choice of blade or not.
If he's paying $200 a blade that'd be some high-end Diablo or similar, which I'd say is the wrong blade from an economic point of view. Buy a bunch of $20 Chinese TCT blades and treat them as disposable.


My builder said - "Cheap blades - 'walk like an Egyptian" - and will never cut straight, 
this makes joins crappy/messy and look terrible.

 


So its worth your Builder spending on a high end blade, - rather than a bunch of crappy ones, - if you want a good looking deck.


neb

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  #2493806 28-May-2020 17:04
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concordnz:

What would you suggest as an alternative? and why?

 

 

Don't know of anything else since I ended up using the Cabots stuff, which I'd already bought, on the deck but was very careful how I applied it. We've now got a deck that looks like Trump, but in any case it was going to be replaced during the rebuild so no biggie.

neb

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  #2493809 28-May-2020 17:06
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concordnz: My builder said - "Cheap blades - 'walk like an Egyptian" - and will never cut straight, 
this makes joins crappy/messy and look terrible.

 

 

Yeah, it's a tradeoff. I'd just feel bad about ruining a bunch of $200 blades, there's bound to be some halfway point where you get a reasonable-enough cut without paying Diablo prices.

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