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  #2521368 12-Jul-2020 09:51
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i just pushed 19mm irigation tube throught a 32mm swept bend. went through fine. you would want to be pushing from the bend end for the best results.

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/deta-32mm-grey-conduit-fittings-90-standard-bend_p0237254

 

as mentioned i would recess a box in the ground under the tap to allow access to the conduit. make for a cleaner look


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  #2521382 12-Jul-2020 10:46
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Make sure you put in tubing from the street main.... and thats where you "start" the garden irrigation from as this is better pressure than going off a house side tap which is essentially tagged onto the house system...thus lower pressure than taking straight off the main from the street. 


 
 
 
 




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  #2521487 12-Jul-2020 16:58
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Goosey:

 

Make sure you put in tubing from the street main.... and thats where you "start" the garden irrigation from as this is better pressure than going off a house side tap which is essentially tagged onto the house system...thus lower pressure than taking straight off the main from the street. 

 

 

If I'd planned it better I would have done that, but left it too late. It's just for water a little garden and requires minimal pressure, so I'm happy enough running from an outdoor tap.




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  #2521489 12-Jul-2020 17:07
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Ended up going with 32mm electrical conduit. And managed to get a bend that didn't have too big a radius, but still (just) let me push through 19mm irrigation tube without it kinking (also grey, instead of bright orange).

 

Here are two side by side.

 

 

Best I could manage on a Sunday.

 

Thanks for all the advice.

 

 

 

EDIT: @Jase2985, I missed your link to the standard grey bend at Bunnings for $3.98. I paid $4.00 at TradeDepot - like a sucker! Their conduit was cheaper though at least.


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  #2521572 12-Jul-2020 20:23
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nice job.




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  #2521728 13-Jul-2020 09:55
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Goosey:

 

nice job.

 

 

Thanks. The lip of the bend will protrude a bit above the path, but being grey will just blend into the foundation colour. And black pipe against black brick will be barely noticeable.

 

I also fed the tubing through after I'd connected the pipe to the bends, so I know it can be replaced if there is ever and issue.

 

All in all a successful day.


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  #2521937 13-Jul-2020 10:58
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You REALLY dont need to overthink.... go and get literally any kind if PVC pipe (I would go purely based on the cheapest option), stick it in the ground, cover the ends and worry about it later.

 
 
 
 




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  #2522104 13-Jul-2020 14:27
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chevrolux: You REALLY dont need to overthink.... go and get literally any kind if PVC pipe (I would go purely based on the cheapest option), stick it in the ground, cover the ends and worry about it later.

 

But overthinking things is my gimmick. Without that, who am I?




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  #2522152 13-Jul-2020 14:41
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I did the same thing for another path that hadn't had the base-course laid yet. I thought I had the placement right, but they laid and compacted the base-course today and it as pushed the top of the vertical conduit opening below where the finished concrete height will be.

 

Easily fixed by extending the pipe a little higher, but is there any benefit in solvent cementing the extension in place, or would it be fine to just push it on dry as long as the top sits above the finished concrete level? I just want to leave the option open of being able to remove and replace the irrigation tubing if ever required.

 

It would be a lot fiddlier to solvent cement it now that the pipe is in place, and even more so with the irrigation tube already inserted.

 

 


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  #2522202 13-Jul-2020 14:58
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Paul - probably no point solvent cementing it - friction plus the concrete will hold it in fine. 

 

Chevrolux - Paul needed it the irrigation line to turn 90degrees and pop up in the concrete. That requires a sweeping bend, which you can't get for DWV pipe




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  #2522203 13-Jul-2020 15:05
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nickb800:

 

Paul - probably no point solvent cementing it - friction plus the concrete will hold it in fine. 

 

 

Thanks @nickb800, I couldn't think of a reason - but just wanted to check I wasn't missing something obvious.


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  #2523571 15-Jul-2020 15:53
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Goosey:

 

Make sure you put in tubing from the street main.... and thats where you "start" the garden irrigation from as this is better pressure than going off a house side tap which is essentially tagged onto the house system...thus lower pressure than taking straight off the main from the street. 

 

 

Ideally if going to irrigation from your service connection, you should have suitable backflow prevention. Even from taps should have vacuum breakers, according to council water engineers.

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/hydroflow-20mm-vacuum-breaker-hose-bib_p0291986





:)




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  #2524150 16-Jul-2020 13:43
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kotuku4:

 

Ideally if going to irrigation from your service connection, you should have suitable backflow prevention. Even from taps should have vacuum breakers, according to council water engineers.

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/hydroflow-20mm-vacuum-breaker-hose-bib_p0291986

 

 

Thanks, I'll make sure I put those on the taps.


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  #2524213 16-Jul-2020 16:15
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When I put pop up sprinklers into my front lawn, I used 25mm PVC rather than poly, as it was all buried. Was pretty easy to do - you just need PVC primer and cement. 95% of the effort for me was digging all the trenching, so while PVC might have been a little more involved, it probably took me 45 minutes instead of 20 to lay all the piping. Not I don't have to worry about something being crushed under the surface, which would be a PITA to find and fix.





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