@timmmay, there is no double glazing and big ranch sliders and the house is exposed directly to southerly. There is wall insulation but I didn't put it in so I don't know what it is and how good it is.
As for tech, this is Grafana with Influxdb and it is fed from Node.red + Mosquitto MQTT. The collecting device are ESP8266 with a BME280 module gathering stats every minute. Self built.
"The Toshiba website says we need 4kw ish. So it should be sufficient. With that said. The installer admitted that the build has said to put in a heat pump that was just about enough to safe cost. I wish I did more research before accepting this one."
A Toshiba cassette is a really strange thing to have in a new house. Cassettes usually cost more as they must have a condensation pump built in.
"For us, during the day, if it is sunny, which it pretty much always is here, day time is not an issue for the living and lounge. It get's to hot, yes even in winter. As soon as the sun goes away the temp in the house drops real fast. Hence the question if there is a way to get this tested."
Typical New Zealand thermal non design. A thermal imaging camera should give some idea where and how much heat is being lost.
"My windows are 2.9 long, 3.2 and 1.1 wide and all 2.2 heigh and one is .6 x 2.9. So quite a big surface to loose heat."
The building code is weak and only requires R0.26 for windows. If you have solid aluminium windows (nearly all new houses in the North Island do) and basic glazing units with no low e you'll be losing heat like mad out of those, maybe 15kW a day out of the above during winter compared with 6.5kW from good thermally broken + low e joinery, excluding curtains.
You can buy thermal backing for curtains cheaply and retrofit them to improve heat loss.
R value of windows including double glazed is pretty poor. Well fitted drapes or blinds add about 0.25 to R values.
Standardised numbers tend to use conservative old figures meaning weak pyrolytic low-e and old attempts at thermally break aluminium. R-windows for uPVC are influenced by the typically larger frame size: if you want the same glass area the window has to be larger meaning less wall which has far higher R values, so it can be misleading.
This happened to the house I'm in despite different companies' staff installing the ceiling versus walls. Part of the ceiling insulation was omitted (out of sight) not counting on home owner checking for it.The owner of the company was not happy as presumably they were taking the insulation and doing side jobs. The exterior walls had only half width pink batts so someone took the full width and replaced them with half width.
"Ceiling insulation make the biggest difference to a house at about 42%, but walls are 24%. That implies windows are about 25% as well."
It can be 50% if the house is otherwise insulated. Many new houses have huge windows but minimum spec joinery meaning they lose the same amount through the windows as a 1990s house while overheating terribly in summer from lack of shading.
"Covenants are a good thing IMO. On the plus side, you can easily choose to not build in an area that has covenants you don't like. "
Section supply without covenants is very low in some places.
No one has mentioned this, but I've been told by multiple people that the first Winter is a new house is typically the coldest due to there still being some moisture in the framing. I know that it's all kiln dried, but presumably not completely dry since most nail/screw popping happens in the first year as well (doesn't it)?
Framing needs to be under 18-20% moisture content to pass a council preline inspection. and yes it does take a while to fully dry out.
how often does a frame go up and not get at least some water on it?
Minimum building codes suck, and that's the standard houses are built to.
What do you propose? Would be better off making a rule that you can't have windows if you want to improve insulation values. Not all houses are built to the minimum. But if you price up a house built with the best of everything, you'll soon realise why many are.
We are currently building (well, trying to get consent). We will have a calculated heating demand of 14.9W/m^2/year to maintain a target temperature of 21C. We are at more risk of overheating.