Choosing an Architect or Architectural Designer

Forums › Home Workshop DIY › Choosing an Architect or Architectural Designer

1 | 2 | 3

52 posts

Master Geek

#2986991 23-Oct-2022 20:51

OllieF:
Why don't you talk to a couple of architects and and show them your floor plan, and see what they propose as a way forward. I think you will soon know if that the right direction. Personally for a brand new build, I would get an archtect. I have learnt recently that some take a percentage of the build cost which could be a bit limiting.

Yeah, that's sensible. I was hoping to get some leads on good architects here so we can shortcut the prices a bit. We've already burnt a lot of time pursuing franchised builders. It's quite daunting thinking about choosing an architect without knowing what we don't know, if you know what I mean!

We just want a relatively simple, but better-performing home. Anyone got any suggestions of architects with that in mind? Can anyone give any feedback on how much their architect cost in the end?

Norton

Get easy to use, easy to install Norton antivirus protection against advanced online threats (affiliate link).

insane

3170 posts

Uber Geek

ID Verified

Trusted

#2986992 23-Oct-2022 20:56

If it's of any help I know the owner of https://www.selahhomes.co.nz/ I'm sure he'll be happy to talk through what you're trying to achieve and show you several of the places he's been building recently for ideas of peace of mind.

angski

41 posts

Geek

#2986994 23-Oct-2022 21:02

It is not so simple as to see an architect and they come out with the size, cost and energy efficient houses.
In fact, by next May, all new built houses will be energy efficient. Read this
https://www.knaufinsulation.co.nz/home-owners/new-homes/energy-efficiency-h1-requirements

Whether you want uPVC or aluminum, that is a small part of building the house. The uPVC part of the window frame, plays a small part to the overall house design when comes to energy efficiency.
have a look at this link
https://starke.co.nz/blog/good-r-value-for-windows-nz/

You also need to consider the type of glass, the type of air, the gap in between the two glass. it is all about the size of the windows you want and the $$$ you are willing to pay. . The price add up very quickly. If you look at the diagram in the above link, the best uPVC can provide is R0.91, timber frame is 1.01, thermal break aluminum is 0.62. That is nothing compared to if you want a 140mm stud frame, you can put up to R4.1 insulation on the wall, compared to a 90mm frame where you can put a max of R2.6 insulation.

It all comes down to the overall budget. There is cladding to think about, the size of windows/sliding door, the facing of your house, the flooring, the heating, the ceiling height and the air exchange.

if you want to know the truth cost, the architect has to come out with an almost complete design plan, and then send the design to an independent Quantity surveyor, they will be able to price it out for you, the cost to build the house.

The more research you do, the faster the architect can draw your dream home with the requirements that you need.

I give you just one example. Let start off from the concrete base. The concrete base do you want?
a. Do you want ripraft, maxraft concrete floor?
b. Do you want underfloor heating? If yes, do you want gas or electric?

You mentioned about GJ. It is not that they are no good. They are a project management company. They sub out their work to contractors. They seldom built bespoke houses because that is not their forte. Remember, they do not make money from you while designing, so, they will not spend time and effort to design a bespoke house for you. They want you to buy their off the plans houses.

If you do go with an architect, be prepared to allocate up to 4% of the total built cost.

Twincamr2

52 posts

Master Geek

#2987108 24-Oct-2022 10:50

insane: If it's of any help I know the owner of https://www.selahhomes.co.nz/ I'm sure he'll be happy to talk through what you're trying to achieve and show you several of the places he's been building recently for ideas of peace of mind.

Thanks for the thought, but looking through their work, I don't think there's a chance in the world we'd be able to afford one of their homes.

Twincamr2

52 posts

Master Geek

#2987109 24-Oct-2022 11:05

angski:
Whether you want uPVC or aluminum, that is a small part of building the house. The uPVC part of the window frame, plays a small part to the overall house design when comes to energy efficiency.
have a look at this link
https://starke.co.nz/blog/good-r-value-for-windows-nz/

You also need to consider the type of glass, the type of air, the gap in between the two glass. it is all about the size of the windows you want and the $$$ you are willing to pay. . The price add up very quickly. If you look at the diagram in the above link, the best uPVC can provide is R0.91, timber frame is 1.01, thermal break aluminum is 0.62. That is nothing compared to if you want a 140mm stud frame, you can put up to R4.1 insulation on the wall, compared to a 90mm frame where you can put a max of R2.6 insulation.

Yep, I understand that - it's just part of the equation. We are thinking of the other aspects such as framing layout, glass spec and window size as well. We are hoping to do 90 mm framing without nogs, and with 45 mm internal battens giving an effective 135 mm frame and up to R4.0 insulation and minimal thermal bridging.

It all comes down to the overall budget. There is cladding to think about, the size of windows/sliding door, the facing of your house, the flooring, the heating, the ceiling height and the air exchange.

if you want to know the truth cost, the architect has to come out with an almost complete design plan, and then send the design to an independent Quantity surveyor, they will be able to price it out for you, the cost to build the house.

The more research you do, the faster the architect can draw your dream home with the requirements that you need.

I give you just one example. Let start off from the concrete base. The concrete base do you want?
a. Do you want ripraft, maxraft concrete floor?
b. Do you want underfloor heating? If yes, do you want gas or electric?

You mentioned about GJ. It is not that they are no good. They are a project management company. They sub out their work to contractors. They seldom built bespoke houses because that is not their forte. Remember, they do not make money from you while designing, so, they will not spend time and effort to design a bespoke house for you. They want you to buy their off the plans houses.

If you do go with an architect, be prepared to allocate up to 4% of the total built cost.

We have opinions on most of those aspects, but not the slab so much (other than it should be edge insulated). Any thoughts on other types? I've never heard of ripraft or maxraft.

Probably no to underfloor heating - heating will be by heat pump.

Oh, don't get me wrong - GJ are fine and they build some very nice houses! It is actually one of their floor plans that is still the very best we've come across. I was using them as an illustration of inflexibility and justification for moving away from franchised builders in general. 4% is a good rule of thumb to work with - thanks!

angski

41 posts

Geek

#2987160 24-Oct-2022 11:52

If you have no nogs, where are the batts going to "sit" on. Friction fit does not work. Have an internal batten of 45mm may not work as there is no 45mm thick batts. You still need nogs to hold the gib board and to provide lateral supports between the studs It is still cheaper than to have 140mm. Do not forget, your rooms will be also be smaller with your method.

You have done your homework. Such deep research you have done, GJ will not do it for free as they will have to calculate the loading of the roof if you decide to have no nogs. The architect will have to do the loading calculations and decide if they need more vertical framing.

If you really want to minimal thermal bridging, build a SIP home. I am sure you came across this company

https://www.formance.co.nz/

OllieF

84 posts

Master Geek

#2987337 24-Oct-2022 15:24

Twincamr2:
OllieF:

Why don't you talk to a couple of architects and and show them your floor plan, and see what they propose as a way forward. I think you will soon know if that the right direction. Personally for a brand new build, I would get an archtect. I have learnt recently that some take a percentage of the build cost which could be a bit limiting.

Yeah, that's sensible. I was hoping to get some leads on good architects here so we can shortcut the prices a bit. We've already burnt a lot of time pursuing franchised builders. It's quite daunting thinking about choosing an architect without knowing what we don't know, if you know what I mean!

We just want a relatively simple, but better-performing home. Anyone got any suggestions of architects with that in mind? Can anyone give any feedback on how much their architect cost in the end?

We used Haydn Sawyer architects. the drew up plans and handled all the building consent process.

Twincamr2

52 posts

Master Geek

#2987338 24-Oct-2022 15:29

angski:

If you have no nogs, where are the batts going to "sit" on. Friction fit does not work. Have an internal batten of 45mm may not work as there is no 45mm thick batts. You still need nogs to hold the gib board and to provide lateral supports between the studs It is still cheaper than to have 140mm. Do not forget, your rooms will be also be smaller with your method.

You have done your homework. Such deep research you have done, GJ will not do it for free as they will have to calculate the loading of the roof if you decide to have no nogs. The architect will have to do the loading calculations and decide if they need more vertical framing.

If you really want to minimal thermal bridging, build a SIP home. I am sure you came across this company

https://www.formance.co.nz/

I'm not sure about exactly how the insulation would be retained, but these guys managed it: https://zeroenergyhouse.co.nz/

Not all insulation is batts, and a quick google brought up at least one 50 mm thick insulation product available in NZ.

Exactly the reason to not use GJ etc. - the engineering will have to be done. It won't be free, but even assuming going to 400 mm centres for studs (as opposed to 600 mm) will likely be cheaper than 140 mm framing (and nogs). GIB would be attached directly to the battens. I'll concede that there would need to be something in place to restrain the GIB edges perpendicular to the battens.

SIPS is absolutely on our radar, but I'm wary of unseen pitfalls of an unknown construction method. I really do need to learn more about them. The guidance is that construction with SIPS is similar to 140 mm framing, so not a saving. It would be great to find an architect who is familiar with all of these options!

Is there anything else specification-wise I should be thinking about to make the conversation with the architect quicker?

Twincamr2

52 posts

Master Geek

#2987339 24-Oct-2022 15:30

OllieF:

We used Haydn Sawyer architects. the drew up plans and handled all the building consent process.

Nice! I'll look them up. Thanks.

pipe60

119 posts

Master Geek

#2987830 25-Oct-2022 15:25

Do you have any pricing on 140mm framing? We did it on our house when we build in 2017 it was round an extra 7K on 350m2,we used R4 in the walls and ceiling, house is cool in summer and warm in winter with very little heating or cooling required

Twincamr2

52 posts

Master Geek

#2987832 25-Oct-2022 15:28

pipe60:
Do you have any pricing on 140mm framing? We did it on our house when we build in 2017 it was round an extra 7K on 350m2,we used R4 in the walls and ceiling, house is cool in summer and warm in winter with very little heating or cooling required

We were indicated an extra 30k on 250m². Again, from a franchised builder.

mattwnz

19378 posts

Uber Geek

#2988336 26-Oct-2022 16:20

Sounds like a big difference, but woudl need to be offset against the insulation cost difference, vs if done with 90 framing, where the insulation possibly has a higher price.. My brother got some quotes for doing a bespoke house, and the franchise builders were by far the highest, even though they are locally owned. They went for an experienced by family run builder that wasn't connected to any franchise who was also the cheapest. They often say don't go for the cheapest but it worked for them.

blackjack17

1624 posts

Uber Geek

#2988346 26-Oct-2022 16:54

Check out The box

https://www.box.co.nz/design-build/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwkt6aBhDKARIsAAyeLJ2MexoTC2rG37FTkNCZca2mNkoTL97MtwJVQ7FpULk1YCh26aDvBgcaAn3DEALw_wcB

They are a design build and are willing to work around the clients demands. Have not built with them but where in the design stage when we found a house to buy rather than build.

Electric kiwi signup credit Sharesies credit

Twincamr2

52 posts

Master Geek

#2988562 27-Oct-2022 09:09

blackjack17:

Check out The box

https://www.box.co.nz/design-build/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwkt6aBhDKARIsAAyeLJ2MexoTC2rG37FTkNCZca2mNkoTL97MtwJVQ7FpULk1YCh26aDvBgcaAn3DEALw_wcB

They are a design build and are willing to work around the clients demands. Have not built with them but where in the design stage when we found a house to buy rather than build.

Yeah, I've had a look at their work. I'm not keen on their style personally, but function is more important than form to me anyway. Interestingly, I just saw that the've got a an estimated range for total build cost on ther website. Even the very lowest end of their range is roughly twice what we can afford. Either they're building gold-plated houses, or we need to drastically rethink our plans.

mattwnz

19378 posts

Uber Geek

#2988860 27-Oct-2022 16:57

Did you watch the two Grand Designs programs? They give an identification of the prices for building bespoke at the moment. Last weeks was a massive house that was 4 times the size of a normal house and it worked out at about $3000 sqm . They may have had some economies of scale due to the massive size.

1 | 2 | 3