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  Reply # 821929 19-May-2013 13:22
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#1: Those are like oven style bulbs, good luck.

I'm at the point where I'll either pay 35x $70 to replace our light fittings with LED fittings (in a 2 year old house), or make my own LED fittings and run them off low voltage DC so I don't need an electrician or run into electrical safety issues.

All my bulbs are ViriBright and they are not bad, payback for me is 6 months, but find a few started to occasionally flicker (or rather flash) after a year. So not a cost issue, just annoyance and I'm up to the challenge of making a nice fitting.




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  Reply # 821946 19-May-2013 13:58
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If you DIY you may find you need to replace them all again in a few years. Are there decent low voltage LEDs available?

The ones I recommended earlier are good, nice light, bright, the light spreads pretty well, and there's a dimmable version available. If you physically install them the electrician cost will be reduced, or you could wire them yourself and have them checked. As a house lot I'm sure you could get a discount.

If you happen to be in Wellington you're welcome to come take a look.




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  Reply # 821963 19-May-2013 15:20
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Niel: #1: Those are like oven style bulbs, good luck.

I'm at the point where I'll either pay 35x $70 to replace our light fittings with LED fittings (in a 2 year old house), or make my own LED fittings and run them off low voltage DC so I don't need an electrician or run into electrical safety issues.

All my bulbs are ViriBright and they are not bad, payback for me is 6 months, but find a few started to occasionally flicker (or rather flash) after a year. So not a cost issue, just annoyance and I'm up to the challenge of making a nice fitting.


If you are looking for full replacement LED light fittings then I can highly recommend the units from Wattsaver in Australia.
So far I've put 30 of them in our new house (DL7-1400 - neutral white) and they are awesome.
I've got about another 20 that still need to be installed but that part of the house isn't finished yet.
I see they've since gone to a 10 year warranty, it was only 5 years when I bought mine.





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  Reply # 821967 19-May-2013 15:30
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timmmay: If you DIY you may find you need to replace them all again in a few years.

I'm an electronic product design engineer, I would design the fitting myself using LED elements and buy an approved LED driver.  You are allowed to replace fittings yourself as long as you do not change the house wiring.  Cost will be similar to buying a fitting, but quality will be much higher and longer lasting.




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  Reply # 821988 19-May-2013 16:01
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Niel:
timmmay: If you DIY you may find you need to replace them all again in a few years.

I'm an electronic product design engineer, I would design the fitting myself using LED elements and buy an approved LED driver.  You are allowed to replace fittings yourself as long as you do not change the house wiring.  Cost will be similar to buying a fitting, but quality will be much higher and longer lasting.


Wattsaver also sell the LED chips separately.





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  Reply # 822004 19-May-2013 16:48
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Niel:
timmmay: If you DIY you may find you need to replace them all again in a few years.

I'm an electronic product design engineer, I would design the fitting myself using LED elements and buy an approved LED driver.  You are allowed to replace fittings yourself as long as you do not change the house wiring.  Cost will be similar to buying a fitting, but quality will be much higher and longer lasting.


Sounds like a bunch of hassle, unless you can sell the design or something. I'm a software engineer, and a wedding photographer, but I pay for software and photography.




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  Reply # 822017 19-May-2013 17:25
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Has anyone ended up with one of the par38 replacements yet? I have put $10 CFL ones into the manually switched lamps, but they are useless on the sensor since they are dim when you need them most and brighten up once you have left.

Not sure on the payback time on replacing 240 watt of incandesent with 36w of LED when they should (so long as the cats stay inside) not come on too much, but I really want to get rid of the depressing orange that incandescent lamps bring.




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  Reply # 822018 19-May-2013 17:26
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You're seriously that bothered by the color of a motion activated security light?




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  Reply # 822019 19-May-2013 17:30
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It doesnt match the rest of the lighting, so yes.




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  Reply # 822037 19-May-2013 17:59
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richms: Has anyone ended up with one of the par38 replacements yet?

Price difference is $60, so assuming 20c per kWh the payback period is the time to save 300kWh.  At 200W power saving, that is a run time of 1500h.  If you run it 1h per day, that is 4 years.  However, in this calculation I did not consider the cost of the glass lamp and replacement.

For the 8W lamps the payback is about 5-6 months when used 5h per day.

It will be a hassle to make my own light fittings, but I've been doing electronics for 30 years and my wife is a mechanical engineer so I'm sure we can come up with something good that looks nice and easy to make.  If only my employer will buy a 3D printer...




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  Reply # 822266 20-May-2013 10:10
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In reply ...

SL2217 neutral white 10W screw   due to NZ   28/5/13
SL2222 neutral white 3.2W E14 screw  due to NZ  15/7/13
SL2227 neutral white 18W screw   due to NZ 28/5/13

add a week or two to these dates for off the retail shelf availability 

I can get something like 25% off the RRP  for the largest bulk buy break 

e.g. 10+   or 5+  for the PAR38 





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  Reply # 836058 12-Jun-2013 20:53
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I'd be interested if anyone knows of a nice Chandelier using LED lighting suitable for a hallway I have a unit that has 25w x 6 Halogens I think they are.

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  Reply # 847651 1-Jul-2013 11:51
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Hi all,

Quick question - we're installing these led lights: http://www.lightingdirect.co.nz/ledlux-lucci-13w-dimmerable-down-light-kit-white

which are "dimmerable" in our bedrooms and were wondering what would happen if they (being 13W) were teamed up with a PDL654M dimmer control module (which states a minimum 20W).

Would it just not work, would it melt something, or would it work ok but not be ideal?

The above link states the lights are compatible with Clipsal dimmer, but I'm hoping to keep the whole house PDL 600 series.

Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks

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  Reply # 847656 1-Jul-2013 11:58
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Under rating on dimmers makes them not turn on at low brightness and to have a very non linear response at the low end. Nothing goes boom.




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  Reply # 847775 1-Jul-2013 16:37
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By "Clipsal Dimmer" they might actually be referring to C-Bus lighting control, not the usual (old school) 'chopper' dimmer.
If these lights come with a seperate 'transformer' (DC current module) you should get some that do 0-10V dimming or DALI.

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