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Sales Engineer
Snowflake
www.snowflake.com
about.me/nzregs
Twitter: @nzregs
bfginger:
I've got Osram and Philips LEDs, I wouldn't buy Osram again. They're slower to turn on and have weird colour temperatures.
Skolink:bfginger:
I've got Osram and Philips LEDs, I wouldn't buy Osram again. They're slower to turn on and have weird colour temperatures.
What Philips LEDs have you got?
bfginger: If you're not ready to put CFLs or LEDs into standard bayonet and screw fittings then I recommend the Philips EcoClassic halogens. They're more expensive than standard incandescents but they use 30% less electricity and last longer.
There is a lack of good LEDs for general lighting available in retail in New Zealand. By good I mean lights in the 800 lumens and up range. Most of the LEDs available in the shops are weak or both weak and relatively inefficient.
http://web.archive.org/web/20110719111918/http://www.efi.org/factoids/lumens.html
Also watch for the colour temperature kelvin. Some lights have wild kelvin ratings that in practice will drive you mad.
I've got Osram and Philips LEDs, I wouldn't buy Osram again. They're slower to turn on and have weird colour temperatures.
They warn not to put the bayonet and screw replacement lights in "enclosed" fixtures, how enclosed do they mean by "enclosed"? Nearly all fixtures are enclosed to some degree.
richms: And even when you spend that much you can often get crap, with visible PWM powersupply ripple, or even worse some are still just putting the AC into a rectifier and calling that a power supply so they flicker with the mains like cheap LED Xmas lights.
Timmay:Let's face it, LED room lighting isn't quite there yet. Give it 2 years and then take another look.Your wrong IMO, except on price.
richms: Problem is that the 50w halogens have never really being suitable for room lighting to start with unless you have 10's of them which is bloody inefficiant, so in those cases there is a viable upgrade path, but there is still nothing GLS sized that has a uniform output, no ugly heatsinking and a decent light output to compete with a standard 100 or 150w lamp.
Is there any air path thru the philips ones? Many of the cheaper ones have a heatsink that has gaps between the 2 sides of the fitting, so would be useless in a sealed bathroom fitting and create drafts in a normal downlight fitting. Also is the philips suitable for insulating over or just abutted like a halogen in a heatcan?
richms: Also is the philips suitable for insulating over or just abutted like a halogen in a heatcan?
Skolink:
What Philips LEDs have you got?
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