ODB II scanner Jeep

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Sidestep

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#1209031 6-Jan-2015 10:30

trig42: Do these tools allow you to stop a code coming back?

I have a code that keeps coming up on my car - I have talked to people and done online research and the thing it pops up for is inconsequential to the running of the car (it is called a swirl control valve, and makes no difference to the running of the engine). I want to stop that code popping up without ripping the engine to bits and finding the valve. I can clear the code, but usually after a few days it comes back (engine light comes on).

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#1209468 6-Jan-2015 19:51

thanks for all the info and offers, Dan, from Snap Internet, dropped by today with his unit. He has a jeep and a scanner. Unfortunately it didn't fix my problem but saved me from unnecessarily spending a couple hundred first by ruling out these codes :).. thanks Dan!

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#1209533 6-Jan-2015 21:11

sorted my problem which was:

Jeep Grand Cherokee 2004 ( WJ ) airbag and seatbelt warning lights remained lit after fixing another problem and 'resetting' by leaving battery disconnected

fix was to remove and re-insert the Airbag fuse module properly (it wasnt inserted fully). Duh. At least i didnt spend $300 at the dealership diagnosing this :)

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#1209534 6-Jan-2015 21:20

amazing!

Boeingflyer

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#1209607 7-Jan-2015 00:24

trig42: Do these tools allow you to stop a code coming back?

I have a code that keeps coming up on my car - I have talked to people and done online research and the thing it pops up for is inconsequential to the running of the car (it is called a swirl control valve, and makes no difference to the running of the engine). I want to stop that code popping up without ripping the engine to bits and finding the valve. I can clear the code, but usually after a few days it comes back (engine light comes on).

I think i have the same problem as you, i fixed the light by putting a black round dot sticker on the dash, now i don't see the light. Each month i check the error codes to make sure i'm not masking anything else.

It will cost me around $500 to fix it myself and approx $1500 for subaru to fix it but i will get no benefit as the valve thats broken does nothing important.

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#1209612 7-Jan-2015 01:19

I have a very similar problem with my Holden Astra.

A sensor is recieving mis-matched information from the wheels and steering angle sensor. It has nothing at all to do with how the car drives, or even the engine itself, but it trips the CEL because the information going to one sensor from the two other sensors does not compute. Luckily for me, as soon as I turn the key off, it disappears.

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#1209685 7-Jan-2015 09:06

have you guys with the codes coming up checked your battery life/condition? I had a code coming up on the jeep about 8 months ago, was causing the engine to go into "limp" mode. Replacing the car battery fixed the problem and haven't seen since- must have been a low voltage issue.

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#1209705 7-Jan-2015 09:33

My car threw 5 lights at once. Worked 100% fine. After a 3 he movie it went away. Took to dealer. They said

We've cleared all the codes it should be fine now

Drove back all the way, in a state of disbelief. Will summon the courage to ask them specific details ...

Sidestep

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#1209806 7-Jan-2015 11:27

A dash lit like a Christmas tree, power loss can be as simple as a loose battery terminal.
Or much worse.
Limp home mode lets you safely pull over while you figure it out. In Canada our GM's OnStar system let the manufacturer decide.

R&R's likely required when that cleared code returns with use. Sticking a piece of tape over the check engine light (or removing the bulb!) isn't really the answer.

It's easy to dismiss emissions equipment as unnecessary but it's part of an integrated system. Your swirl valve (or Subaru Idle Air Control) is integral to your car's correct operation. Everything from O2 sensors to catalytic converters move a little more towards the edge of their operating envelope when exposed to that unburnt exhaust..

And you should investigate why..Vacuum loss? Broken wiring? Or worse is the valve stuck partly closed?

We've just scored yet another cheap Subie.
Barely started, black smoke poured out the exhaust, cooling fans stuck on, check engine light flashing..
Cause? One of the two temp senders had failed. Mismatch causes full rich limp home mode, fans on. Previous owner ignored a fluctuating temp gauge..

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#1209892 7-Jan-2015 13:23

Sidestep: A dash lit like a Christmas tree, power loss can be as simple as a loose battery terminal.
Or much worse.
Limp home mode lets you safely pull over while you figure it out. In Canada our GM's OnStar system let the manufacturer decide.

R&R's likely required when that cleared code returns with use. Sticking a piece of tape over the check engine light (or removing the bulb!) isn't really the answer.

It's easy to dismiss emissions equipment as unnecessary but it's part of an integrated system. Your swirl valve (or Subaru Idle Air Control) is integral to your car's correct operation. Everything from O2 sensors to catalytic converters move a little more towards the edge of their operating envelope when exposed to that unburnt exhaust..

And you should investigate why..Vacuum loss? Broken wiring? Or worse is the valve stuck partly closed?

We've just scored yet another cheap Subie.
Barely started, black smoke poured out the exhaust, cooling fans stuck on, check engine light flashing..
Cause? One of the two temp senders had failed. Mismatch causes full rich limp home mode, fans on. Previous owner ignored a fluctuating temp gauge..

Fair enough calls but having this light on for 2 years and the car is still running sweet. I'll take the gamble.

My problem is a secondary air valve problem. either stuck open or closed on one side. all it does is take fresh air and mixes it will the exhaust emissions so that the emission readings are low for the hippy greenies in USA only when starting the engine. works for approx 10 seconds once you turn the key.

Most Subaru enthusiast rip out the whole system to clean up the look of the engine and also to save a little bit of weight.

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#1209946 7-Jan-2015 14:56

Fabian: Fair enough calls but having this light on for 2 years and the car is still running sweet. I'll take the gamble.

My problem is a secondary air valve problem. either stuck open or closed on one side. all it does is take fresh air and mixes it will the exhaust emissions so that the emission readings are low for the hippy greenies in USA only when starting the engine. works for approx 10 seconds once you turn the key.

Most Subaru enthusiast rip out the whole system to clean up the look of the engine and also to save a little bit of weight.

Yes that system is getting close to 10 years old now, and as with most things exposed to exhaust gases for that long..

But having a warning light permanently on would make me nuts..
And an exhaust air valve stuck open isn't good!

I'd take them off & try to fix - or at least put in a block off plate..

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