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  Reply # 1303092 12-May-2015 19:44
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mattwnz:One of the things I don't like is istop, which stops the engine when you aren't moving, and starts it again when you need to move. You can't turn it off permanently either, although there are work arounds, such as tilting the wheel when you stop.


there is a button to turn off istop - does it only work per-trip or something?  we leave it on, so haven't tried




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  Reply # 1303146 12-May-2015 20:21
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Regs:
mattwnz:One of the things I don't like is istop, which stops the engine when you aren't moving, and starts it again when you need to move. You can't turn it off permanently either, although there are work arounds, such as tilting the wheel when you stop.


there is a button to turn off istop - does it only work per-trip or something?  we leave it on, so haven't tried


Yes it is only per trip. Although I did try it and it didn't seem to do anything when I test 🚗 it.

 
 
 
 


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  Reply # 1304531 13-May-2015 14:11
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I know you're not buying a diesel model, but just to add to the discussion, a design flaw with Mazda's SkyActiv diesel engine can result in the crankcase becoming overfilled with unburned diesel, potentially damaging the engine.
http://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/backlash-over-mazda-cx5-diesel-oil-issues-20120821-24k6w.html
http://forum.mazda6club.com/engine-drivetrain/264345-2014-mazda6-diesel-serious-problems.html

Also, the diesel engine needs to be driven at motorway speeds for 20 minutes per week for the diesel particulate filter to regenerate.

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  Reply # 1304535 13-May-2015 14:16
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The SP25 non Limited Mazda 3 looks to be a hell of a car.

Might be an option for me in 3 years :)

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  Reply # 1304542 13-May-2015 14:27
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CitizenErased: I know you're not buying a diesel model, but just to add to the discussion, a design flaw with Mazda's SkyActiv diesel engine can result in the crankcase becoming overfilled with unburned diesel, potentially damaging the engine.
http://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/backlash-over-mazda-cx5-diesel-oil-issues-20120821-24k6w.html
http://forum.mazda6club.com/engine-drivetrain/264345-2014-mazda6-diesel-serious-problems.html

Also, the diesel engine needs to be driven at motorway speeds for 20 minutes per week for the diesel particulate filter to regenerate.


Also discussed a few weeks back on this thread, starting from this post: http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=162&topicid=172079&page_no=4#1304531

In my experience, it's not necessarily a weekly chore - it depends on the amount and type of driving. The worse thing is I never know when it's coming! (This hassle is one of the other reasons I'd not buy diesel next time, or recommend it to others who aren't drivers doing a lot of open-road driving.)

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  Reply # 1304653 13-May-2015 16:44
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jonathan18:
CitizenErased: I know you're not buying a diesel model, but just to add to the discussion, a design flaw with Mazda's SkyActiv diesel engine can result in the crankcase becoming overfilled with unburned diesel, potentially damaging the engine.
http://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/backlash-over-mazda-cx5-diesel-oil-issues-20120821-24k6w.html
http://forum.mazda6club.com/engine-drivetrain/264345-2014-mazda6-diesel-serious-problems.html

Also, the diesel engine needs to be driven at motorway speeds for 20 minutes per week for the diesel particulate filter to regenerate.


Also discussed a few weeks back on this thread, starting from this post: http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=162&topicid=172079&page_no=4#1304531

In my experience, it's not necessarily a weekly chore - it depends on the amount and type of driving. The worse thing is I never know when it's coming! (This hassle is one of the other reasons I'd not buy diesel next time, or recommend it to others who aren't drivers doing a lot of open-road driving.)


Or you buy a diesel that doesn't have that type of filter. I just wish our government sorted out the ACC and licensing costs for diesles for small passenger cars. It is  aproblem that has been going on for many years, and it must be low priority.
I don't think mazda 3 diesels are a big seller in NZ, so probably more difficult to negotiate a good price on them anyway. They do have the benefit of the i-loop system, which they don't seem to have in the other models for some reason.

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  Reply # 1305587 15-May-2015 09:05
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MikeAqua: European cars cost more to service (cost x frequency) and to buy parts for. 


I can't say I agree with this comment. My wife has an Audi A4 & I have an Audi A3 and so far our experience has been the exact opposite. Servicing is every 15,000km whereas most Japanese cars are 10,000km and servicing/parts have been as cheap as my previous cars. I've just had the cambelt/water pump replaced and it was significantly cheaper than my old Subaru Legacy or my wifes old Honda Integra. Maybe we've been lucky but we're more than happy with the costs of owning European cars.

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  Reply # 1305695 15-May-2015 11:00
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^ i've had similar experiences with euros, even ones with a rep for poor reliability (think 70s/80s fiat, alfa, renault).


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  Reply # 1307646 19-May-2015 10:12
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Which one did you end up testing/getting? I am going to be looking at test driving the mazda 3 very soon and wanted to get your (or any Mazda, 3 or otherwise, owners) thoughts about the car, reliability, performance and usage. 

Looking to trade up from a small Honda Jazz to a small/medium sedan (or maybe hatch)

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  Reply # 1307656 19-May-2015 10:26
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butlerboy:
MikeAqua: European cars cost more to service (cost x frequency) and to buy parts for. 


I can't say I agree with this comment. My wife has an Audi A4 & I have an Audi A3 and so far our experience has been the exact opposite. Servicing is every 15,000km whereas most Japanese cars are 10,000km and servicing/parts have been as cheap as my previous cars. I've just had the cambelt/water pump replaced and it was significantly cheaper than my old Subaru Legacy or my wifes old Honda Integra. Maybe we've been lucky but we're more than happy with the costs of owning European cars.


Its a common misconception though - people are still hung up on this from the 80's/90's....the reality is far different (after owning a Euro for a considerable number of years), with servicing and parts comparable with other car manufacturers. And yes in many cases Euros can be cheaper even. People need to do their own investigation - when looking at cars, check out the cost of servicing, cost of replacing certain key parts (eg battery, belts, filters, etc), and then make an educated decision based off actuals not off peoples opinion (that is often derived not from ownership, but from "a friend of a mate, who's aunty had one")



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  Reply # 1311864 26-May-2015 10:34
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In the case of the cars I have looked at it's a reality, I have crunched the numbers for the first 5 years based on dealer provided information an  Japanese/Korean has a lower overall cost of ownership.  There is also the issue of being in a small city: The dealers aren't there for many European makes, so you pay more for servicing agents to do the work.

E3xtc:
butlerboy:
MikeAqua: European cars cost more to service (cost x frequency) and to buy parts for. 


I can't say I agree with this comment. My wife has an Audi A4 & I have an Audi A3 and so far our experience has been the exact opposite. Servicing is every 15,000km whereas most Japanese cars are 10,000km and servicing/parts have been as cheap as my previous cars. I've just had the cambelt/water pump replaced and it was significantly cheaper than my old Subaru Legacy or my wifes old Honda Integra. Maybe we've been lucky but we're more than happy with the costs of owning European cars.


Its a common misconception though - people are still hung up on this from the 80's/90's....the reality is far different (after owning a Euro for a considerable number of years), with servicing and parts comparable with other car manufacturers. And yes in many cases Euros can be cheaper even. People need to do their own investigation - when looking at cars, check out the cost of servicing, cost of replacing certain key parts (eg battery, belts, filters, etc), and then make an educated decision based off actuals not off peoples opinion (that is often derived not from ownership, but from "a friend of a mate, who's aunty had one")




Mike



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  Reply # 1311875 26-May-2015 10:50
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So I have now driven the Hyundai i30 1.8, Mazda 3 2.0, Mazda 3 2.5 and Mitsi Lancer.

Mazda 3 2.0 handled beautifully but was underpowered.

i30 was underpowered and didn't handle that nicely.

Lancer handled very nicely but the CVT transmission is just absolutely awful.  You put your foot down, make a cup of tea, and after you are finished drinking your cup of tea it changes down and eventually accelerates.  Simply dangerous in a front wheel drive, where power is your friend if evasive  action is required.

It's a shame as it is otherwise a nice car to drive If there was a manual option I would be all over it.

Mazda 3 2.5 has enough power and handles nicely.  It has 138kW, and because there is no turbo, the power is instant.  The car we tested had less than 50km onthe clock, and I imagine things would improve as it loosens up.  It's a slightly firmer ride than the 2.0 but that is due in part to the low profile tyre setup, which I could swap out from some aftermarket rims later on if I wanted to.

If I could pick and chose I would have the lancer handling, the i30's gadgetry and Mazda's 2.5L engine.

My pick so far is the Mazda 3 2.5, probably in manual.  It comes with 3 years 'free' servicing ...





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  Reply # 1312690 27-May-2015 13:10
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So you are not interested in the Kia Cerato?



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  Reply # 1317344 4-Jun-2015 12:22
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We have a winner, the Mazda 3 2.5 is on it's way.  Went auto as there is a long wait for manual in the colour we wanted.

Got a great deal too.  June is a competitive time of year for car sales.




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  Reply # 1317350 4-Jun-2015 12:37
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I found that when I looked at the Mazda 2 at North Shore, the guy there seemed uninterested in selling a manual at all.  Only had automatics on the forecourt and would be a special order.

June is good time to buy with Fieldays specials everywhere.

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