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  # 1320773 9-Jun-2015 23:18
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jonathan18: I know this is OT, but can anyone with a Jazz confirm or refute this? I'm thinking of taking her car to the local Honda dealership for its next service, so I assume they may have a quicker/easier way (or at least plugging the car in for a diagnosis would tell them if the plugs are needing replacement?)? (This is the same Jazz I've reported that my wife gets dire fuel economy on - currently and typically 8.7l/100km for purely urban driving.)

Pretty sure the Jazz is the same as the Fit, in which case yes, you have to pull a bunch of shrouding etc off to be able to get at the plugs at the back. It's not massive, just a pain compared to some other engines like the 4G63 that are directly accessible from the top etc. Subaru's boxer engines are more annoying imo.

There are far worse cars than Subaru's for replacing spark plugs on. Main example is some V6 Mitsi Diamante. The inlet mainifold needs to be removed to replace the rear 3 sparkplugs. Alot of other Front wheel drive V6 models are difficult as well.

Also check the time based servicing requirements. As often engine oil is something like 6 months or 10,000K (whichever comes first). And cambelts typically need to be replaced every 5 years or 100,000K (again whichever comes first). And with oil changes, you need to use exactly what the manufacturer recommends to get the full (15,000K or whatever) service interval. Even my mum's 1.4L Hyundai Getz requires full synthetic oil. If you use cheap oil you need to change it more often. And I highly doubt that any of those cheap servicing places are going to be using full synthetic oil.

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  # 1320801 10-Jun-2015 06:34
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2007 Honda Jazz, so slightly different to the 2008 one, and im not sure how the engine different in complexity as to getting the plugs in and out.
Spark Plug change was 203. 157 for the plugs and the rest was labour. .4h according to the sheet. but they do that thing all the time.

most expensive thing at the 100k service was the valve clearance, that was $420. But we are keeping the full service history as it does enable the car to hold a higher value when/if we do decide to sell it.

where abouts in NZ are you? we took our accord to Hamilton Honda for a service as we were able to get a discount on the parts and labour through


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  # 1322032 10-Jun-2015 12:31
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At 160,000km the engine is likely to be the least of the issues you have, they should go well into 300,000km these days, even high performance engines should do this.

The best thing to do is more around regular work, and when an issue is presented fix it. Keep on top of oil leaks if you can and use correct fluids like anti-corrosive coolant not water.

As far as fuel, use the fuel the car is tuned for, there is very little in difference otherwise, for a corolla it'll likely be 91.

Now you need to look after the other components, usually the trans are not serviced regularly so getting this a once over by a specialist, not a dealership and have the suspension components looked at, again by a specialist not a dealer.

You pay more for a low km car as it is a gamble once you get higher.

I had an FTO Mivec (high performance/ highly stressed engine) that had 200,000km when I got it, hadn't had an oil change in at least 50,000km and I got another 70,000km out of it before I sold it as I wanted something bigger.

It is still going and I see it around. I got it as it was cheap and pretty much disposable if the engine failed.


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  # 1322165 10-Jun-2015 14:14
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Timing belt, idlers, tensioners & water pump
Spark plugs
Coolant, engine oil + filter, gearbox oil & diff oil if it has one.
Air filter
Radiator flush and pressure test
Power steering flush

Those are the things I would do.

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  # 1322206 10-Jun-2015 14:34
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"Genuine" parts and especially consumables are usually horribly expensive and usually not that much better than aftermarket parts - brake pads, air-filters, oil filters, fluids all being examples.  For a family car in-spec aftermarket parts and consumables are usually fine. 

Most car maintenance tasks are routine and simple.

Car brand maintenance technicians are usually the most expensive in town.  They have vehicle specific training, which should be great for fault finding.   At the same time dealership may feed you the BS company line/denial on known reliability issues. That is, problems the manufacturer does not acknowledge but which are widely noted outside of dealership garages.

For those taking umbrage with my mention of Midas,  I was not endorsing the chain, just using my local branch/franchisee as an example.  They are excellent.  If fact they fixed several of the local dealer's stuff ups on my car.

The key thing is to find a reputable (and I would still argue independent) mechanic in your area.

MikeAqua: Don't take any maintenance advice from a dealer that sells parts or does servicing. 

Go to a reputable, independent mechanic.  Personally I use my local (Nelson) Midas.  Good guys who know their cars and give honest advice.

Often original parts from the dealer are a better deal than substitutes. It is also likely that common maintenance tasks will be done faster in the dealer's workshop.

You mention reputable, independant mechanics then bring up a franchise operation that doesn't always deliver either.


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  # 1322209 10-Jun-2015 14:37
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Not always true. Toyota Genuine Parts can in some cases even be cheaper than going to Repco/Supercheap, it certainly pays to shop around. 

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  # 1322223 10-Jun-2015 14:53
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Hence my use of the word 'usually'.

lxsw20: Not always true. Toyota Genuine Parts can in some cases even be cheaper than going to Repco/Supercheap, it certainly pays to shop around. 



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  # 1322311 10-Jun-2015 16:48
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If you dont mind waiting the 3 days for quote and 4 days for shipping is great for buying genuine parts direct from japan.

RHDjapan is also great

Managed to score a genuine Subaru AFR sensor for $126NZ shipped (vs $380 from dealer)

Broomfish in NZ also have some great prices on service items.

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  # 1332880 28-Jun-2015 10:05
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thanks guys lots done to it.
- changed spark plugs, coolant, diff oils, air filter, transmission oil.

labour was 3x more expensive than genuine toyota parts! lol

but one thing - they "topped up" fluids. that means they inspected it and looked ok so they left it alone? should i change the other "fluids"?
i can't remember how many there are eg
- brake fluid
- power steering fluid
- any other fluid


Swype on iOS is detrimental to accurate typing. Apologies in advance.

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  # 1332909 28-Jun-2015 11:57
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I change brake fluid every 2 years. Some places may be able to measure water content. Depending on how likely you may need to change pads in future you could save that for combined service. As for power steering do you know that you have a hydraulic system as more and more are electric.

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  # 1332976 28-Jun-2015 15:10
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hydraulic. at extreme lock it makes a sad sound.

Swype on iOS is detrimental to accurate typing. Apologies in advance.

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  # 1332985 28-Jun-2015 15:32
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Most older pumps make a sad sound at extreme lock... the pump is pumping but the ram/rack/box can't go any further so the pump is straining to pump fluid to nowhere under a higher pressure than usual as the fluid can't be compressed.

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  # 1332995 28-Jun-2015 16:11
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Don't forget to do the rest of the maintenance on the car too. Clean around all your boot and door seals since moss and gunk will hold moisture, therefore more rust prone.

Check underneith for scrapes in the paint and probably rust where its thru to the metal.

Decent vacuum of the carpet under the mats, since dirt and stuff there will grind the carpet wearing it faster.


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