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  Reply # 1864764 13-Sep-2017 20:57
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I have one of those heavy duty extension leads in my boot with my 8amp EVSE just in case... I used it when I got stuck down in Queenstown, I checked up on it regularly and it only got slightly warm to the touch







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  Reply # 1864860 13-Sep-2017 23:52
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GizTec:

 

I think any decent(affordable) option would be good at this stage.. Paying 10% of the vehicles cost for a stereo doesn't sit right with me either :)

 

For them to be able to source and charge only $699 (comparing to their other solution mark ups) - Its going to be at least one of the 3 options which would explain the block..

 

 

 



I saw in the UK Leaf Owners Facebook group that a woman had her leaf stolen from her driveway yestersday. The police said the theft of Leafs for parts is becoming more a thing........ 

Got me wondering where parts come from that were previously hard to obtain if they aren't coming from Nissan. 





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  Reply # 1864862 14-Sep-2017 00:00
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PhantomNVD:

 

A separate question, but with the fact that the EV population is doubling annually (and expected to do so from now on) and also that LEAF's make up more than half the light fleet... most Fast chargers seem to be fitted with Chademo ports AND Type2 "Menekes" and seem to be able to run both at the same time...?

 

As most EVs here seem to use the Chademo cable... and (in AKL anyway) the incidence of queueing is growing... how viable/available are Type2>Chademo cables, so that i can use an "adapter" of some sort to utilise the Type 2 to charge my Leaf when the Chademo is in use?

 



Only one car can DC charge at a time, but it is possible to "queue" on some chargers. For example, if an Ioniq is charging on the CCS 2 cable on an ABB charger, a LEAF can plug into the CHAdeMo and push "Start". It won't actually start until the Ioniq finishes charging on the CCS 2 connector. The LEAF drive may have walked away......knowing their car will charge when the other car is done. 

However.....I'm not sure it works the other way (LEAF charging and Ioniq or BMW comes along). 

Also....I don't think queuing works on the Veefils. 

I may have that all wrong....from memory.....but the central idea is that queueing is possible on some chargers in some configurations. Hopefully I remembered which ones. I may not have. 

Of course DC and AC can always charge at the same time......so a Renault Zoe can happily plug into 43kw or 22kw  AC on an ABB unit and charge at the same time as any other car on DC - whether ChAdeMO or CCS 2. Adding: Who gets how much in the AC / DC situations depends on who started first. First in gets what they need....and second gets the remainder for the possible 63kw maximum until the other car is done (or reduces its draw is it approached "full". 





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  Reply # 1864996 14-Sep-2017 09:40
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Buttonmash:

 

If you're using a 10A cable surely it'd be alright (most EV chargers seem limited to 8A).  Can't be any different to running a heater on an extension lead?

 

 

Yeah, you'd think that a 10A lead is a 10A lead and should do the job. In practice this isn't universally the case.

 

The advantage of 1.5mm over 1.0mm is that you get less voltage drop over a long distance. This isn't only an efficiency and performance matter but also a heat generation issue.

 

Small amounts of heat generation is not so much of an issue when you are running your heater for a few hours on a cold night or when it is running long term but the thermostat is cycling it  on and off. You can run into trouble generating small amounts of heat, continuously over long periods of time (even more so if the lead is coiled up or covered). I have seen at least 3 times when leads have melted at the plug, and emitted smoke when carrying less than their rated load. In all cases the leads were running at about 80-90% load, continuously 24/7 in higher ambient temperatures. In researching it I found that some plug types and standards are rated at 8 hours and 20degC. So you have to de-rate them when running for longer than 8 hours or in higher temps that 20degC.

 

Perhaps the point is that if you shop carefully you can find 1.5mm leads (better quality & safety factor) for the same price (or less) than 1.0mm leads. If a 1.5mm lead costs the same as a 1.0mm lead, or if you intend to run it near full-bore for long periods in summer, a 1.5mm lead would be the sensible choice.


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  Reply # 1867397 16-Sep-2017 20:49
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I ended up getting a 10m tradie heavy duty extension cord, it seems pretty good. We made our first drive out to Oxford and it went pretty well in spite of a slip up with the charge timer.
I set the timer to always charge before 7am without a start time for every weekday, I didn't set anything for the weekend... So when I checked on the leaf this morning it only had 60% charge.
So I charged it for 2 and a half hours, got it to 80% and we started the drive.
I was playing around with the cruise controls and we needed the air con on, so not the most efficient drive. We got to our destination with 22% battery left.

We were there for a while and managed to get back up to 70% before leaving again, this time getting to 28%. A total of 100% usage.

This experience has left me wondering if there is a good way to estimate the battery usage for trips around NZ. Anyone use anything good?



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  Reply # 1867401 16-Sep-2017 21:20
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JeezyKreezy:This experience has left me wondering if there is a good way to estimate the battery usage for trips around NZ. Anyone use anything good?


I used Greenrace. It's a Swiss web site that can calculate the energy used by a wide variety of vehicles on whatever route you specify.

You select the vehicle(s) you want. Then you give it a start address and click "Add to Direction". Then add whatever waypoint addresses you need too make it do the route you want. .

You can set an average speed.

It will calculate the range of your car at that speed on that route. Very useful. It lets you model energy use at any speed. It also knows about regen and factors that in.

However, you need to add to the vehicle any additional weight. You can also adjust the maximum kWh available for the selected vehicle to match the state of your battery. Otherwise Greenrace assumes you have the maximum, new battery charge available.

It doesn't factor in wind. If you're driving into a strong headwind you'll have to allow for that. Add the wind speed to your speed. Estimate.

It doesn't factor in rain. Wet roads can cost you 10% range.

I use Greenrace to get a feel for what charging I'll need to do for a specific trip. My goal is a 20% margin....15% at a push. Less than that and your running your battery low and don't have much margin for error or detours.

http://www.jurassictest.ch/GR/




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  Reply # 1867484 17-Sep-2017 11:43
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Linuxluver:
JeezyKreezy:This experience has left me wondering if there is a good way to estimate the battery usage for trips around NZ. Anyone use anything good?


However, you need to add to the vehicle any additional weight. You can also adjust the maximum kWh available for the selected vehicle to match the state of your battery. Otherwise Greenrace assumes you have the maximum, new battery charge available.


http://www.jurassictest.ch/GR/

 

Great and very useful site.

 

For trips where you need the quick charger you will also need to allow for that some quickchargers only charge to 80%. Leaving you with less kWh available.

 

 


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  Reply # 1867492 17-Sep-2017 12:30
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Although the 80% limit can be over ridden if wished. Ie some of chargenet ones.

This practical decision in that the charging rate slower as battery gets full.

Where there are no queues and no time charge it's not an issue.

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  Reply # 1867507 17-Sep-2017 13:24
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Personally I’d prefer the ‘sipping’ idea espoused by LinuxLover earlier... more and shorter stops that use maximum charger speed for less overall time. Ie 30>80% then 48-80 then 22-80 etc...

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  Reply # 1867551 17-Sep-2017 16:12
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afe66: Although the 80% limit can be over ridden if wished. Ie some of chargenet ones.

This practical decision in that the charging rate slower as battery gets full.

Where there are no queues and no time charge it's not an issue.

 

Speaking of 80% charge. Does anyone use the 80% charge feature with their charge timers? I was just going to stick to 100% :/


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  Reply # 1867554 17-Sep-2017 16:19
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I used to. However, given I don't travel outside of city limits, I wasn't 'saving' up for occasions for 100% charge - so then 80% charging simply means I've neutered my battery to 80%. Couldn't see the point in that.


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  Reply # 1867610 17-Sep-2017 17:43
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Linuxluver:

 

LEAF owners should check their front wheel struts if they haven't already. This is an old issue, but some here may not be aware of it. 

 

Thanks for the advice on this.

 

During the week the caps were delivered.  Yesterday I installed them.  One side was pretty clean, the other was a pool of rusty water.  Eek!


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  Reply # 1867650 17-Sep-2017 18:52
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paulchinnz:

I used to. However, given I don't travel outside of city limits, I wasn't 'saving' up for occasions for 100% charge - so then 80% charging simply means I've neutered my battery to 80%. Couldn't see the point in that.



I read that these batteries retain their optimum capacity if maintained between 40 and 80 and do NOT like ‘sitting’ fully charged. If your charge settings allow your journey to start soon after you reach 100% it should be fine, but if your use case is ‘only around town’ and you rarely reach 20% then surely ‘neutering’ your battery to 80% for the best use scenario would be irrelevant?

That said, and occasional QC and sometime 100% apparently helps the batteries to load balance...

AND, the Gen2 apparently removed the 80% setting, soooo even Nissan aren’t actually sure? (Or the new “lizard” batteries are more tolerant)

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  Reply # 1867654 17-Sep-2017 19:11
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Solid points @phantomnvd. In response:

 

1) 100% means that I'm less likely to be caught out by unexpected extra journeys

 

2) 100% means charging less often (slacker that I am)

 

3) 80% setting was apparently removed from US Leaf models. Jap kept that setting - at least mine (2013) is an example of that. Easy enough to replicate by charging for limited time anyway.




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  Reply # 1867667 17-Sep-2017 20:11
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Cybnate:

 

Great and very useful site.

 

For trips where you need the quick charger you will also need to allow for that some quickchargers only charge to 80%. Leaving you with less kWh available.

 

 

If you mean the Charge.Net fast chargers......they do go to 80% by default, but if you tag on and then touch the centre of the button that says "80%" below and "Max" above.....it will charge to "Max". 

Max is usually 95%.......though some Gen 1 LEAFs may only charge to 90% due to a bug in their firmware. Gen 2 LEAFs and other EVs don't have the problem (if they can use the DC chargers). 





____________________________________________________
I'm on a high fibre diet. 

 

High fibre diet


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