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  #1540961 24-Apr-2016 08:13
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Jase2985:

How did they test it was 100% charged? did they do a specific gravity test (if it was possible) on the electrolyte?


if you have a couple of cars and you can give a battery 2-3 more years life  the charger can pay for its self within the life of both batteries



Even if it is possible to get at the electrolyte modern car batteries have a problem with stratification. You need to charge them in a way that stirs up the electrolyte. Trickle charging will never get to full charge.

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  #1540967 24-Apr-2016 08:44
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timmmay:

snip...... the guy who tested the battery told me the Exide battery I have shouldn't be charged, other than perhaps with a trickle charger.


Sounds like sales babble to me.

Consider this:
- the alternator output on your car is 40-60 amps. Your vehicle regulator (usually built into the alternator) will control what your battery gets, but it will certainly be more than a 0.8amp trickle charge
- re the specialness of Exide brand.... The battery is likely an SLA (VRSLA) or 'wet battery', which includeds AGM types. Alternatively it could be a Gel type or a Calcium one.
Whilst the differences are essentially in the end of charge voltage profiles, ultimately the battery type is determined by the vehicle manufacturer, and the atlternator/regulator fitted to the vehicle.
Unless your car is specially unique its likely to have a pretty standard charging system which will take a pretty standard battery.

 
 
 
 




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  #1540969 24-Apr-2016 08:48
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I think you may be right @oxnsox. Exide say you can charge the batteries, and that you should charge them occasionally not just let the vehicle do it. They also say batteries should be at 12.5V before the battery test will run, so this battery is stuffed. I'll definitely get a new battery (Jeff is helping with that) and will likely get a charger too - I'll see if I can find one of the Ctek medium chargers in a sale - repco have a sale today that includes at least the high end ctek charger.


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  #1540972 24-Apr-2016 08:59
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C-TEK are great compact chargers, and as others have suggested I'd recommend you look at the 5A unit.
SuperCheap have their house branded SCA units, which can be good value. Will let you select battery type and output current (2-8-16) on one a neighbour has.

Great Jeff can help you out. Another GZ benefit ;-)



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  #1540974 24-Apr-2016 09:09
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I can get agreement for $100 or maybe $150 from the Mrs, which is probably the 0.8 or 3.8 models. Given I can replace a battery for $150 at most and a new battery lasts 5 years, and this might eek another couple of years out of a battery, buying any battery charger doesn't really make any financial sense.

 

I'd need a fully automatic charger.


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  #1541055 24-Apr-2016 10:52
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Ctek MX 5.0 has solved all my car battery woes. It really does work magic.

 

The reconditioning mode, which is basically a controlled and monitored overcharge which stirs up all the electrolye to ensure it's evenly mixed, is what your old battery needs.

 

In terms of batteries themselves, I've found Supercharge Gold to be great for the money.




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  #1541057 24-Apr-2016 11:06
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This battery really seems stuffed, so I'm not going to try to recover it. I may buy a charger, but $160 seems excessive - for that I can buy two new batteries at wholesale rates. The CTEK 3.8 doesn't have reconditioning and is only slightly cheaper than the 5.0. The ctek 0.8 has maintenance mode, and would work fine just a bit more slowly. I'll go have a look at repco and decide if I want the cheap one which would be fine for a six monthly maintenance type charge or the bigger one to recondition.

 

Appreciate all the thoughts and advice.


 
 
 
 


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  #1541077 24-Apr-2016 11:44
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 i still dont understand how/why you are still considering the 0.8 for a car battery? its not designed for it. its designed for small SLA or motorbike type batteries not car ones




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  #1541092 24-Apr-2016 12:05
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Jase2985:

 

 i still dont understand how/why you are still considering the 0.8 for a car battery? its not designed for it. its designed for small SLA or motorbike type batteries not car ones

 

 

All I want is low price that will do a good enough job. It says "Desulphation" and "Charges even drained batteries up to 32AH.", and "The charger can be connected for months, ideal for seasonal vehicles.". So while I agree it's not the best option, it may be a good enough option at the best price. The 5.0 looks like the best option, but at double the price.

 

I may still get the 5.0 if I can get it in a good enough sale.


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  #1541096 24-Apr-2016 12:14
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My experience with lead acid batteries is conditioning is beneficial for standby type batteries that are nearly always being floated or trickle charged and rarely if ever become discharged or have a high draw off e.g. starting an engine. 

 

I don't believe a motor vehicle battery that is in a vehicle that gets regular use will get much, if any, benefit from using a conditioner.

 

A battery charger is handy for those times the headlights get left on. Then you need something that does at least 10 amps. 

 

Otherwise just ensure the electrolyte is maintained at the proper level, that the battery is clean from dirt and the terminals clean. The only other thing to think about is the charging system on the car and these days they tend to either work or not work.

 

When replacing a battery buy a reputable brand. Which brand probably doesn't matter, in many cases they will come out of the same factory anyway.  Just ensure you buy a model that is specified for your car to ensure it fits the cradle and the battery terminals are in the correct place.





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  #1541112 24-Apr-2016 12:58
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You may be right @Technofreak. May skip the charger, get another decent battery, and replace it again in 5 years.


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  #1541132 24-Apr-2016 14:04
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Technofreak:

 

My experience with lead acid batteries is conditioning is beneficial for standby type batteries that are nearly always being floated or trickle charged and rarely if ever become discharged or have a high draw off e.g. starting an engine. 

 

I don't believe a motor vehicle battery that is in a vehicle that gets regular use will get much, if any, benefit from using a conditioner.

 

A battery charger is handy for those times the headlights get left on. Then you need something that does at least 10 amps. 

 

Otherwise just ensure the electrolyte is maintained at the proper level, that the battery is clean from dirt and the terminals clean. The only other thing to think about is the charging system on the car and these days they tend to either work or not work.

 

When replacing a battery buy a reputable brand. Which brand probably doesn't matter, in many cases they will come out of the same factory anyway.  Just ensure you buy a model that is specified for your car to ensure it fits the cradle and the battery terminals are in the correct place.

 

 

maybe so but car battery's do suffer from stratification and sulfation and it is quiet common, and thats where a conditioner comes in.


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  #1541133 24-Apr-2016 14:04
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timmmay:

 

 

 

All I want is low price that will do a good enough job. It says "Desulphation" and "Charges even drained batteries up to 32AH.", and "The charger can be connected for months, ideal for seasonal vehicles.". So while I agree it's not the best option, it may be a good enough option at the best price. The 5.0 looks like the best option, but at double the price.

 

I may still get the 5.0 if I can get it in a good enough sale.

 

 

given a car battery is 40Ah+ .....




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  #1541162 24-Apr-2016 14:25
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Yeah, I think I'll just flag the battery charger and buy a new one. It's been fine for so long I don't even have records of when I purchased it, I'm happy to pay that amount of money ever 5 - 8 years in exchange for ignoring it the rest of the time.


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  #1542460 26-Apr-2016 21:52

just throwing it out there, panasonic car batteries

 

no idea how much it costs, but people I know swears by them


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