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823 posts

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  #1545208 2-May-2016 10:20
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Aredwood:

 

Also the Mobil's sometimes do a "spend $40 on fuel and get 10c per L off" or "buy 2 drinks and get 10c per L off". So a good bonus if the price is already less than 90c per L.

 

 

Watch the "Buy xyz to get a discount" promotions.  In most cases the thing you have to buy costs more than the discount you'll get, so unless you needed that thing anyway, usually not worth it.





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  #1545226 2-May-2016 10:36
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Jase2985:

full the tank as full as you can get it, ie the pump click off 3-4 times (this ensure the tank is going to be at pretty much the same level every time)
Reset the trip meter
Drive the car x distance, doesn't really matter but the further is generally better, record the distance
full the tank as full as you can get it, ie the pump click off 3-4 times


then do the calculations, ive found that is the best way to do it and ends up being the most accurate


I use an App called fuely as my logbook so I can track heaps of things.


I think you would struggle to find many vehicles that would do the fuel figures that the manufactures claim, due to how they actually test them.


 


 



Esp since some of them probably cheat on the numbers anyway




Involuntary autocorrect in operation on mobile device. Apologies in advance.


 
 
 
 


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  #1545238 2-May-2016 10:43
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I don't think they cheat because it is regulated and sometimes independent but its just how the testing is done, and that's its on a dyno not on an actual road, and its all under controlled conditions which you will never have on the road


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Master Geek


  #1545264 2-May-2016 11:34
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I record my fuel consumption for work, and out of interest do things like reset & record the vehicle average consumption shown on the dash EVERY time I refuel.

 

 

 

A few things on working out fuel consumption.

 

1. You cannot base a vehicles fuel consumption on one tank. It must be done over several as the ground may not be level, you may not fill it up the same each time etc. I fill mine up to the 4th click/shutoff to try and be reasonably consistent.

 

2. Never trust the vehicle indicated fuel consumption unless you have shown it to be accurate. My vehicle (Ranger) shows an indicated vehicle average over the last 2.5 years of 9.3 l/100km, where as the actual from the pump receipts is 10.4 l/100km, a difference of 12%. Let's not even go into the issue of the book figures for fuel consumption, we all know they are not a real world indicator! Grrrrrr.

 

3. Usage can have a huge range. My best (till receipts) is 9.3, worst 11.8 l/100km, a 22% difference. I don't regard myself as having a particularly heavy foot. Best returns are on long journeys (like 600+ km), worst around town and towing - no surprises there then.

 

 

 

On costs, don't forget those supermarket coupons and that stupid AA card, I don't have a fuel card. For this vehicle I've spent $5153 on diesel, but the pump cost was $5790 a saving of $637. I can get quite a few beers for that :-)


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  #1545413 2-May-2016 15:22
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2014 Mazda 3 GLX (2.0l engine)

I've been keeping the stats on the car since I got it (started at 7,020km 13 June 2015, currently just over 17,000km 2 May 2016)
My average over every fill has been 8.6l per 100km

 

My best result has been 6.2l per 100km after driving Dunedin to Queenstown (via Middlemarch) to Invercargill before filling up in Balclutha on the way back home - roughly 680km on 43 litres
My worst result has been just over 9l per 100km, which is made up of city driving and not letting the engine warm up before turning the car off again

 

Since purchasing, the car has given my average as 7.5km, based on "Trip A" which automatically resets every 10,000km


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