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  #1854850 29-Aug-2017 15:35
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Ok, drove the car from Parnell to Ron Wood in New Lynn no probs. Nick pulled the alternator out and disassembled it but to no avail - couldn't see anything wrong with the rectifier diodes . He had already ordered in a replacement on the chance it was required and has fitted it. Job all done and about 40% cheaper than the first garage I went to.

 

So... wallet significantly lightened but Ron Wood Auto Electrical gets my tick of approval anyway.

 

 


Devastation by stupidity
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  #1854879 29-Aug-2017 15:59
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Did it fix the problem though. That is what we all want to know.

 

 





I don't think there is ever a bad time to talk about how absurd war is, how old men make decisions and young people die. - George Clooney
 


 
 
 
 




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  #1854880 29-Aug-2017 16:03
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Oh, yes all tested and fixed. I have no way of knowing if the battery needed to be replaced or not but have not replaced in the time I've had the car - 5 or 6 years so it was due.

 

The original alternator was 80 amp, new one 100. No idea if that's going to make any noticeable difference.

 

 

 

 


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  #1855060 30-Aug-2017 07:20
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kryptonjohn:

 

Oh, yes all tested and fixed. I have no way of knowing if the battery needed to be replaced or not but have not replaced in the time I've had the car - 5 or 6 years so it was due.

 

The original alternator was 80 amp, new one 100. No idea if that's going to make any noticeable difference.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It possibly may, I had an alternator go on a 540I BMW, E39 shape and I was supplied a 120A alternator being told it would work 100% even though i had removed a 140A from my car. My mechanic at the time (Where i worked) told me straight up it wouldnt work. The all mighty BMW god Ray @ HellBM  (Avoid this Idiot, he abuses his customers and calls everyone else out for being wrong even though he is)  swore black and blue it would. Alternator slapped in and no dice. Rage on the phone later and I got the 140A but I learnt that you should probably be replacing like for like. The sparkie is probably qualified and knows that it would work.

I see people putting larger alternators on Jap 4wd's to run winches, even second alternators!

TLDR: Probably fine.  


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  #1859692 6-Sep-2017 13:36
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The same size as factory or larger amp alternator will be fine for your vehicle.  There are a few pros for running a larger alternator, mainly the fact that when the vehicle is running the alternator is large enough to power all accessories without the need to run them from the battery.

 

 

 

Other thing to keep in mind is the warning lights in vehicles are very much the final attempt to alert the driver to a fault.  Running diagnostic software to read out the details of the computer will often show up more information.  I know when i had issues with my 1996 Commodore, i ran the car up and connected a diagnostic cable to the car and found that one of the O2 sensors on the exhaust was reading a low value (even though the other sensor was reading normal values)  This condition was not enough to trip the fault lights on the car but enough to make a  difference in the car's performance.

 

The other thing that can happen with some cars is the fault light bulb can fail! So checking to make sure the light is illuminated at the ON position (car not running) is always a good check.




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  #1859695 6-Sep-2017 13:38
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Yeah, but you'd think the alternator not charging would light the alternator not charging light? It definitely came on when the ignition was switched on.

 

 


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  #1859713 6-Sep-2017 14:01
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kryptonjohn:

 

Yeah, but you'd think the alternator not charging would light the alternator not charging light? It definitely came on when the ignition was switched on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

You and I would think that, but it really does depend on what triggers are needed by the computer to illuminate the light.

 

Maybe the computer could see there was voltage being applied to the battery, but there was no current being supplied by the alternator to actually charge the battery? 


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