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Banana?
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  #1872364 25-Sep-2017 11:41
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Seems a good time for this:

 

 

 

 

Did make me laugh when I first saw it (years ago).

 

 


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  #1872427 25-Sep-2017 12:48
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Batman:

 

Geektastic:

 

To be pedantic, ABS usually won't work below a certain speed (5 or 10 mph I think) in a normal road scenario unless they have changed the systems a lot.

 

My Land Rover makes use of the ABS functionality to provide off road specific things, such as locking one wheel if it is not in contact with the ground when the other one on the same axle is, the aforementioned HDC, traction control to reduce wheel spin in slippery conditions like mud and so on. Those kinds of functionality are the reverse in that they usually won't work above a certain speed rather than below a certain speed.

 

 

Funny you mentioned this. 

 

ABS works at any speed. I was driving at 4km/h on snow at the ski field on summer tyres and tested it by slamming the brakes and the car did not stop, just shuddered away (ABS, not drivetrain). And no, my drivetrain did not explode either.

 

AH now I know why Tim thought his drivetrain was exploding. My guess is Tim does not know that a working ABS causes shudder normally. And it is NOT his drivetrain exploding. The shudder and loud noises that scared him was a normal ABS working. 

 

 

Theoretically ABS does not work at low speeds because it doesn't have to (unless you have an extreme example driving on ice at 4km/h).  Speeds much below 20km/h on normal road surfaces will not result in the triggering of ABS simply because the car will have already stopped by the time it is needed.  I do think however that as part of driving training all drivers should experience what ABS and ESC/ESP feels like so they don't panic when it happens and think something gone wrong.  

 

On the OP's topic I do note the NZ Road Codes addresses it thus:

 

 

 

The driver should

 

  • When moving off:

     

    • Disengage the clutch by pressing down on the clutch pedal and selecting first gear (manual) or place foot on the brake and select drive (automatic).
      Note: when driving automatic vehicles use the right foot for both the brake pedal and the accelerator.

  

 

I did ask a driver education friend of mine if that means a driver would fail a practical test if they used the 2 foot method, the answer was no, not unless it affected their driving ability.  It is however not considered 'best practice' and drivers are discouraged from doing this.  

 

  





Always be yourself, unless you can be Batman, then always be the Batman



 
 
 
 


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  #1872432 25-Sep-2017 12:59
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scuwp:

 

Theoretically ABS does not work at low speeds because it doesn't have to (unless you have an extreme example driving on ice at 4km/h).  Speeds much below 20km/h on normal road surfaces will not result in the triggering of ABS simply because the car will have already stopped by the time it is needed.  I do think however that as part of driving training all drivers should experience what ABS and ESC/ESP feels like so they don't panic when it happens and think something gone wrong.  

 

 

 

 

Unfortunately ice is common in parts of the south island in winter.

 

And on unpaved roads, loose gravel is around all year round.

 

So ABS will still be activated when you jam the brake pedal in these situations. 

 

But I agree on dry tarmac in slow speeds ABS won't be activated (rather than doesn't work).

 

Not sure about wet tarmac ... depends how wet I guess.





Involuntary autocorrect in operation on mobile device. Apologies in advance.


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  #1872438 25-Sep-2017 13:11
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Batman:

 

AH now I know why Tim thought his drivetrain was exploding. My guess is Tim does not know that a working ABS causes shudder normally. And it is NOT his drivetrain exploding. The shudder and loud noises that scared him was a normal ABS working. 

 

 

 

 

The issue I had was related to drivetrain tramp, Paired with my manual gearbox and clutch left out the tramp caused a resonate effect through the driveline. It had enough play that you could get 1/3 turn out of the output shaft on the gearbox before it would take up the slack on any of the 4 wheels. This excessive play was from being thrashed to hell and back every day of the week.

So what was happening was it would take up the slack 1/3 turn one way, the wheels would brake and the driveline then be loaded back the other way then jolt at the 1/3 turn back and so fourth. Each pulse of the ABS creates makes this go on and on. Get the picture? 

 

 

 

On the topic whether it would trigger under a certain speed. 
I was always of the understanding it would disable under 5-10kph depending on the make. My beema will lockup under 10KPH on gravel and ABS will function all the way down to 10KPH. 


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  #1872442 25-Sep-2017 13:14
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Ouch. Reminds me of the way you could bunny-hop manual cars. I can recall in my younger days a mate with a manual Hyundai company car intentionally bunny-hopping that poor thing until it was just about jumping in the air. Built like a tank, it never broke.

 

 


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  #1872456 25-Sep-2017 13:31
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Coil:

 

Batman:

 

AH now I know why Tim thought his drivetrain was exploding. My guess is Tim does not know that a working ABS causes shudder normally. And it is NOT his drivetrain exploding. The shudder and loud noises that scared him was a normal ABS working. 

 

 

 

 

The issue I had was related to drivetrain tramp, Paired with my manual gearbox and clutch left out the tramp caused a resonate effect through the driveline. It had enough play that you could get 1/3 turn out of the output shaft on the gearbox before it would take up the slack on any of the 4 wheels. This excessive play was from being thrashed to hell and back every day of the week.

So what was happening was it would take up the slack 1/3 turn one way, the wheels would brake and the driveline then be loaded back the other way then jolt at the 1/3 turn back and so fourth. Each pulse of the ABS creates makes this go on and on. Get the picture? 

 

 

 

On the topic whether it would trigger under a certain speed. 
I was always of the understanding it would disable under 5-10kph depending on the make. My beema will lockup under 10KPH on gravel and ABS will function all the way down to 10KPH. 

 

 

Wow my apologies





Involuntary autocorrect in operation on mobile device. Apologies in advance.


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  #1872459 25-Sep-2017 13:38
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Batman:

 

Coil:

 

Batman:

 

AH now I know why Tim thought his drivetrain was exploding. My guess is Tim does not know that a working ABS causes shudder normally. And it is NOT his drivetrain exploding. The shudder and loud noises that scared him was a normal ABS working. 

 

 

 

 

The issue I had was related to drivetrain tramp, Paired with my manual gearbox and clutch left out the tramp caused a resonate effect through the driveline. It had enough play that you could get 1/3 turn out of the output shaft on the gearbox before it would take up the slack on any of the 4 wheels. This excessive play was from being thrashed to hell and back every day of the week.

So what was happening was it would take up the slack 1/3 turn one way, the wheels would brake and the driveline then be loaded back the other way then jolt at the 1/3 turn back and so fourth. Each pulse of the ABS creates makes this go on and on. Get the picture? 

 

 

 

On the topic whether it would trigger under a certain speed. 
I was always of the understanding it would disable under 5-10kph depending on the make. My beema will lockup under 10KPH on gravel and ABS will function all the way down to 10KPH. 

 

 

Wow my apologies

 

 

 

 

Showing my hands shaking left and right moving in weird ways while holding my tongue at a certain angle is hard to put into words ahhhhhh.. I blame my poor explanation and difficulty of explain such an occurrence without a degree.  You're off the hook :P 


 
 
 
 


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  #1872764 25-Sep-2017 22:48

Batman:

 

And on unpaved roads, loose gravel is around all year round.

 

 

 

 

In some cases not having ABS is better on gravel. As a "dam" of gravel builds up in front of the locked up wheels when you brake heavily, Which requires more force for the car to push forwards - better braking. But then ABS allows you to maintain steering control even while braking. So having ABS even on gravel can still be a good thing. The best is when you have a means of telling the car if you are driving on mud, gravel, snow etc. So the computers can use the best control program.






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  #1873348 26-Sep-2017 20:58
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Perplexed such a question exists


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  #1873400 26-Sep-2017 22:56
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Coil: My beema {snip}

 

 

 

 

You drive a pram?

 

 

 

beemas are https://www.google.com.au/search?q=beema&rlz=1C1CHBF_enAU756AU757&oq=beema&aqs=chrome..69i57.1198j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 

 

The owner of a BMW motorcycle will correct you and tell you a Beamer (or Beemer) is a bike and Bimmer is a car.

 

You should know that by now.

 

 

 

https://www.reddit.com/r/BMW/comments/1fr0nb/bimmer_vs_beemer_proper_terminology/

 

 

 

http://jalopnik.com/139926/bimmer-vs-beamer-the-answer

 

 

 

 


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  #1873449 27-Sep-2017 09:15
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blakamin:

 

Coil: My beema {snip}

 

 

 

 

You drive a pram?

 

 

 

beemas are https://www.google.com.au/search?q=beema&rlz=1C1CHBF_enAU756AU757&oq=beema&aqs=chrome..69i57.1198j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 

 

The owner of a BMW motorcycle will correct you and tell you a Beamer (or Beemer) is a bike and Bimmer is a car.

 

You should know that by now.

 

 

 

https://www.reddit.com/r/BMW/comments/1fr0nb/bimmer_vs_beemer_proper_terminology/

 

 

 

http://jalopnik.com/139926/bimmer-vs-beamer-the-answer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah I've been over that argument more times than I can count on R3v and BMW pages locally haha. People get the idea :)
The beam, Bimmer, Beama or the tank is what mine goes by with a raft of other nicknames my mates have made up but are not suitable to post publicly haha. Generally refers to money and expense but I have spent half as much driven twice as far as most of my mates with japs :)... 


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