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  # 2199910 17-Mar-2019 04:52
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Batman:

 

for @scuwp, comparing the 2 bikes suggested, the expensive bike which unfortunately for those born to road-race on a mtb, only comes with single chainring up front has a gear range of 500%, and the cheaper bike that has the dual chainring up front, has a gear range of 537%

 

 

yes but whats the difference between gears, thats where you will notice it the most


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  # 2199921 17-Mar-2019 07:06
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Jase2985:

 

Batman:

 

 

 

for @scuwp, comparing the 2 bikes suggested, the expensive bike which unfortunately for those born to road-race on a mtb, only comes with single chainring up front has a gear range of 500%, and the cheaper bike that has the dual chainring up front, has a gear range of 537%

 

 

 

 

 

 

yes but whats the difference between gears, thats where you will notice it the most

 


About 10-15% difference in step iirc.
As I said, if you buy a mtb fit for mtb purpose your road racing genes will take a hit. If you want to race on the road by a road bike (from the 7 types of road bike I know of, one of them will suit - but they start from $2500 not $1000).

 

From my reluctant experience to be given no choice in the front gears I have noticed no difference in the trails as my climbing gears are always between 37 and 21 when climbing. On the flats its between 21 and 15. The other gears are when going downhill when gravity takes over. Note when you're in the smallest gear the bike is going 40-50 kph depending on what front gear you put on. I don't want to die so there's no need to go that fast most of the time. When I go down a hill on anything I don't pedal. My fastest in a mtb down a road was 70 kph.

The other things I've noticed being forced to have only one gear at the front are all positives. No more squeaks from the front. No mud being stuck in the front. Wife can understand which gears to use! The more gears at back the narrower the physical gaps the between them (and vice versa) the easier/smoother the gear changes as the chains don't have jump too far so it helps those who are changing gears a lot. Etc

Expensive bike

50 42 37 32 28 24 21 18 16 14 12 10

Cheaper bike

36 32 28 24 21 19 17 15 13 11

Rubbish bike

 

30 26 23 20 17 15 13 11 (8 speed at the back, 3 gears at the front, steps in climbing gears are bigger, steps in road racing gears are the same but the rest of the bike are rubbish for mtb purpose. Works if you want to bike to work on the flat and want the extra 5-10kg weight as ballast. Don't bother with any hills)





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  # 2199923 17-Mar-2019 07:11
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martyyn: I haven't bought myself a bike in nearly 20 years but old football injuries mean I need to keep my knees moving.

I'm happy to pay around $1000, possibly a little more, and am considering hardtails rather than road bikes because my son will likely use it as well and we live rurally.

I'm 6'5 so only XL or XXL frames and I'd prefer 29" I think.

So far Bikebarn and Torpedo7 seem to have the best deals.

Does anyone have any suggestions on manufacturers/models at this end of the market ?



https://www.pitcrew.nz

Have a look here.I bought 4 bikes through them so far. They won't sell if they think you don't need it.. When I first went to them - I was looking for a "good" one and they asked about my usage and advised me just to go for cheaper model etc. Because of that honesty, I end up buying 3 more bikes after that!





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  # 2199925 17-Mar-2019 07:40
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martyyn: Awesome Batman.

Both of those are on my list. Given they are doing 60 months interest free I'm tempted to go a little higher if there is something worthwhile.

The other is a Trek Big Nine 500 at Bikebarn.

 

the 2017 Merida Big Nine has vastly inferior technology for MTB-ing but if you're only on unpaved roads it will suit better (for the purposes of going as fast as possible). And yes it's 29 inch.

 

And no the Roscoe is 27+ not 29 but it works better in MTB trails but yes inferior to the cheaper 2017 29" on unpaved roads and tarmac.

 

The 2019 Kona Kahuna 29" at 1299 in Bike Barn is almost the same spec as the Trek Roscoe 8. Better on unpaved roads and tarmac, still quite inferior to Roscoe on REAL mtb trails - whether you will go on real MTB trails only you know.

 

Can't have 'em all!

 

If buying one today, that'll be the 3 I'd choose from assuming they have your size.





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  # 2200264 17-Mar-2019 15:48
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I've had a good rethink about what the bike is going to be doing and to start with it's going to be doing tarmac and non paved tracks predominantly.

Mostly gravel tracks, some tussac grasses by the river, some sand dunes and maybe the odd trip through the trees across the road. Pretty much all flat too.

I'm 48, have had serious knee and ankle injuries over the years and just need to get back on a bike without thinking I'm 18 !

If I want to do more later then I can look at it again.

So for now I think the Kona is the go.

Cheers Batman, I appreciate the help.

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  # 2200304 17-Mar-2019 17:47
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I just had a look at the actual specs of the Kona and the Merida - there is very little difference between them. Other than the more expensive brand (Kona), and more expensive Sram drive train. Other than the brand the drive train, and the colour the specs are similar. I would save the 300 and get the Merida with all its older drive train.





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  # 2200397 17-Mar-2019 20:09
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Just one thing though, I wouldn't discount the Trek Roscoe 8, yes it's not the fastest thing on unpaved roads and paved roads, but it isn't going to hold you back in that environment, it will ride very well. In fact on gravel roads you will be more comfortable on the Trek, while not being able to charge through nearly as fast. On tarmac is where the bigger difference is - the Merida 29 inch narrow tyres will feel at home, and the Trek Roscoe on fatter tyres will feel like driving on the highway on a ute with 4wd tyres. But I see people on their Ford Ranger on the highway all the time, doesn't seem to stop them.





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  # 2200420 17-Mar-2019 20:40
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I'm not bothered about going fast on tarmac at all. I just want to be able to mix up my fitness work.

I can't run and just walking is getting a little boring.

I'd much rather get a more capable bike for the gravel and river stopbank riding than the road.

I'll go into Bikebarn tomorrow to have a chat.

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  # 2200427 17-Mar-2019 20:52
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martyyn: I'm not bothered about going fast on tarmac at all. I just want to be able to mix up my fitness work.

I can't run and just walking is getting a little boring.

I'd much rather get a more capable bike for the gravel and river stopbank riding than the road.

I'll go into Bikebarn tomorrow to have a chat.

 

In that case, either of the 3 bikes mentioned will work fine. Just up to you which you like. I would get the Trek but I'm a MTB enthusiast. You might have a different liking.





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  # 2200849 18-Mar-2019 15:08
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How are people finding drive line wear with one front chainring?

 

I've been told that the rear gears & the chain have to be super thin now to fit, & they just don't last very well.

 

I currently have 3 x 10 so can save the wear on my smallest rear cog by using the largest on the front.
My chain jumps if I use my 11! Yes I probably need a new chain & cluster :(

 

I'm worried wear on the new breed of bikes will be a nuisance?


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  # 2200864 18-Mar-2019 15:30
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To add my two-cents worth - I have just bought my first new MTB in nearly 20 years also...coming off an old Wheeler Freeride (dual susser)

 

 

 

I ended up going to Evolution Cycles when they had a big sale on and picked up a decent recreational bike...wasn't looking for a race machine or a downhiller as I am also suffering a few long-term ankle/knee injuries and just wanted a bike that would be long-term reliable and wouldn't break the bank. 

 

 

 

I ended up with last year's Silverback Stride HD which came with 27.5" wheels (suits me better as I'm fairly short) and a half-decent Alivio/Deore group set (along with hydraulic disc brakes). 

 

 

 

I'm pretty happy with it and also only use it for the odd loose off-road track and tarmac ride...I'm no longer the downhilling and North Shore trail-riding young man I once was. 

 

 

 

I ended up paying $700 for it...looking at the spec that I got and the quality of the frame, if I'd gone with other brands, including those offered by Bike Barn etc I would have spent well over $1000 for similar specs, so overall, I think it's a decent sort of deal, for the riding that I do. 

 

 

 

 

 

 





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  # 2200910 18-Mar-2019 16:44
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On2or3wheels:

How are people finding drive line wear with one front chainring?


I've been told that the rear gears & the chain have to be super thin now to fit, & they just don't last very well.


I currently have 3 x 10 so can save the wear on my smallest rear cog by using the largest on the front.
My chain jumps if I use my 11! Yes I probably need a new chain & cluster :(


I'm worried wear on the new breed of bikes will be a nuisance?



Sram 12 speed chains show very little wear.




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  # 2200953 18-Mar-2019 18:04
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On2or3wheels:

 

How are people finding drive line wear with one front chainring?

 

 

Chains have been thin for awhile. I have mix of 1x10 and 1x11. It's more the front chainring that wears quickly for me, I've got a Renthal chainring on my main bike which has held up well, some others have worn really quickly and get noisy. 

 

But 1x is not for everyone, if you have lots of really steep trails, or lots of flat riding, you might not have the range. Technically I'm fit enough to cope with my current range (1x10 and 34t with 11-40 on the back) but on the odd ride I miss a granny ring....


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  # 2200963 18-Mar-2019 18:21
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It's a shame the expensive bikes come as 1x nowadays without much of a choice. I am not worried about chain wear (apparently the high end SRAM 12 speed chains never wear out according to the internet). But I do care about the crazy chainline. Seriously crazy. Someone with physics knowledge could calculate the vectors involved in power reduction just from the chainline angle itself? But every single pro use 1x nowadays so who am I to challenge that!

 

I was very reluctant at first but seeing I do not ride very fast, I am riding a 1x11 sram (420% gear range) with a 28T cog up front, and hardly even need the 10T cog! THe only time the bike goes as fast as needing the 10T cog I'm letting gravity do all my work. On this bike the chainline is matched to the gear I use the most, which is the 28t rear cog.

 

On my commuter use MTB bike I have an older style high end 3x10 (yup the older high end bikes were 3x10 !) I never use the largest cog, and to prove it, it has no grease/grime. Scrub my pants on it and there is no black. I never use it. But I'm a sloth probably?





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  # 2201029 18-Mar-2019 19:53
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