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Glassboy
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  #2887844 17-Mar-2022 19:09
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elpenguino: Did it come with filament?

I don't have any so if I know I need some, I'll get some.

 

 

 

Kapiti Hobbies stocks eSun.  Scott's a good bloke and worth doing business with.  Plus as he operates out of his pharmacy he is able to run during lock downs :-)


elpenguino
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  #2887894 17-Mar-2022 20:50
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I would have previously thought 3d printing and pharmacy a strange pair but the last few posts made so little sense to me , I now see 3D printing and pharmacy are a good match.




Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21


Glassboy
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  #2887901 17-Mar-2022 21:11
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elpenguino: I would have previously thought 3d printing and pharmacy a strange pair but the last few posts made so little sense to me , I now see 3D printing and pharmacy are a good match.

 

Scott's a wargamer.  He had some space in the pharmacy so he started stocking wargaming products.  It did so well that it now takes up one side of the store.  3D printing is now a big part of wargaming.  During the Auckland lockdown a whole bunch of us ran out of supplies and couldn't get anymore.  So Scott ordered a pallet of resin and PLA.  He has a loyalty scheme too.   




elpenguino
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  #2887928 17-Mar-2022 23:29
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here's what is probably a stupid question: Is all filament you buy the same diameter?

 

Just had a squiz online and at first sight they're sold by weight/colour with no mention of diameter,





Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21


Reanalyse
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  #2888199 18-Mar-2022 13:03
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elpenguino:

 

here's what is probably a stupid question: Is all filament you buy the same diameter?

 

Just had a squiz online and at first sight they're sold by weight/colour with no mention of diameter,

 

 

 

 

The diameter you need is 1.75mm, there are some at 2.85mm but the latter is less common.

 

All sorts of suppliers, but i would recommend eSun as a basic reliable filament.

 

 


1101

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  #2888235 18-Mar-2022 13:46
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What color filament would you pick, assuming just the one roll (for now)

Hard to guess what would be the best color for all the various small gidgets and do-dahs


Reanalyse
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  #2888257 18-Mar-2022 14:32
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1101:

 

What color filament would you pick, assuming just the one roll (for now)

Hard to guess what would be the best color for all the various small gidgets and do-dahs

 

 

I generally print in white as this matches the type of items I need to fix around the house , but for items for the ender 3 such as tool drawer and light bar will probably use black filament.

 

 




elpenguino
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  #2888263 18-Mar-2022 14:40
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1101:

 

What color filament would you pick, assuming just the one roll (for now)

Hard to guess what would be the best color for all the various small gidgets and do-dahs

 

 

Good question.

 

Is it a PITA to change colours , you know, flush the system out, do you get colour contamination etc?





Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21


richms
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  #2888314 18-Mar-2022 14:56
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elpenguino:

Good question.


Is it a PITA to change colours , you know, flush the system out, do you get colour contamination etc?



Not too bad between colours of the same type but changing plastic types is a real chore. You may get a tiny bit of the old colour hang out and come thru soon after changing it and it looks clear but that's nothing that the jams and charring up from different temperature plastics will cause.

At this price getting one for each colour is almost viable




Richard rich.ms

mdf

mdf
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  #2888315 18-Mar-2022 14:57
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elpenguino:

 

Is it a PITA to change colours , you know, flush the system out, do you get colour contamination etc?

 

 

2 minute job. Heat the hot end (longest part). Pull out old filament. Feed in new filament. Purge a bit (either manually or using the controller to extrude some). Done.

 

An extruder knob helps with the purging bit. See: https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:extruder_knob

 

Colour is personal choice, and what you're doing with it. Stuff around the house: white and black (and maybe grey/silver) since they are the least intrusive/most generic. I've printed a lot in royal blue and black, and have a bit of a theme going in places (colours of one of my sports clubs incidentially). Low Poly Pikachu: clearly yellow is the only option. Yoda/the child: Green. And so forth.

 

FWIW, I mostly buy filament from Kiwi3d. Their PLA+ stuff is very nice; prints super well on my e3pro at 205 degrees.

 

If you do buy extra filament, don't open it until you need to use it. And from there, a filament dry box is a good idea. Lot's of options online, but essentially a plastic box with some kind of silica in it to absorb the water. Otherwise a vacuum seal bag with silica packets.


Reanalyse
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  #2888932 20-Mar-2022 11:40
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Printer now built, went together well and did check all square of the side and top bars.

 

Just waiting on my glass bed to start printing. Was thinking of getting a feeler gauge set and using that to align the bed, hold the 0.2mm gauge under the nozzle and wind up the bed until it stops moving freely, then wind the bed down by half a turn of the levelling wheel. Repeat on all four corners and centre. Has anyone else used a feeler gauge and how did it go ?

 

I really like the partial kit approach as it teaches all the printer parts and how to initially troubleshoot. 

 

   


elpenguino
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  #2888938 20-Mar-2022 11:57
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There seems to be many comments about levelling on this unit.
I see there's replacement bed springs for a few dollars on Alix , does anyone have a positive experience with those?

And for $20-30 there's a z axis detection sensor accompanied by a firmware update.
That seems like a good upgrade but I don't want to brick the unit straight out of the box.
I'll wait a while before I do any upgrades like that.




Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21


richms
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  #2888948 20-Mar-2022 12:59
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Anyone know who locally does the best deal on filaments and ships quickly? My 2 rolls are shot and I dont want to have to wait on china shipping to get printing again.





Richard rich.ms

1101

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  #2888987 20-Mar-2022 16:03
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1st test print today, the benchie.
One good thing, it heats up so much quicker than my previous 12v printer.

 

This is as is , without any real tweaking. All it did was follow the build vids & made sure everything was squared up & not drooping.
My lead screw was at a bit of an angle, I got it as good as I could , bit I'm sure that will go out of wack again.

 

I havnt done the extraction/retraction or other calibrartion .
Benchie was using 5 year old PLA :-)
A bit of stringing, some zebra stripes on the cabin, but portholes & windows are round . I think there are some artifacts from the noticeable flat spots on the carriage wheels .

 

Im really happy with the first print. It shows I dont need to spend hours tweeking.
I just want to print usefull stuff that doesnt need to look perfect, holders, clamps , tools, brackets etc.
Printer works, now I can buy some PETG .

 

 

 


mdf

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  #2889306 20-Mar-2022 20:23
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For bed levelling, a feeler gauge does work well to get it pretty accurate. I prefer this to a peice of paper. From there, print a test pattern and adjust on the fly if you're not quite getting the right extrusion. Michael @ Teching Tech and Chuck at CHEP/Filament Fridays both have tutorials and patterns. CHEP's E3 profiles are really good, I use them.

The BLtouch isn't a perfect addon but it is really worthwhile if you want to take some of the manual hassle out of bed levelling each time. Especially for short and wide prints. It's straightforward enough to install.

Do remeber that at this price point no bed is going to be perfectly level (and you don't really need it to be for most scenarios) so you don't need micrometer levels of precision.

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