3d Printer, Ender3 NZ$229

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Forums › Bargains and Deals › 3d Printer, Ender3 NZ$229

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#2889307 20-Mar-2022 20:27

richms:
Anyone know who locally does the best deal on filaments and ships quickly? My 2 rolls are shot and I dont want to have to wait on china shipping to get printing again.

I use kiwi3d. Not necessarily cheapest but good quality and fast shipping. I think others of this parish have recommended marvle3d previously.

Hibino

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#2889308 20-Mar-2022 20:34

Personally I do not recommend buying old 3d printers like ender 3 now since it lacks auto-leveling and even it is 4.2.2 board it is not using a silent chip(HR4988 for ender 3/3 pro, TMC2209 for other models). I spend hundreds to upgrade my ender 3 pro together with the printer price it is already enough to buy a printer with built in upgrades.

The things I replaced on my ender 3 pro to get better prints:

- BL Touch for bed leveling

- Glass bed(but PEI coating bed is even better than glass bed)

- SKR mini board(better and upgraded firmware that supports linear advance and silent printing)

- Bigtree 3.5' touch screen(much better experience than the old knot control)

- 2 better fans

- a metal extruder

For all the money, it is enough to match the anycubic vyper I bought last year(NZ$600 including shipping & tax on Aliexpress) which is a much better printer than ender 3.

But of course, if you are very interested into DIY and like to spending lots of time tuning things, this might good.

richms:

Anyone know who locally does the best deal on filaments and ships quickly? My 2 rolls are shot and I dont want to have to wait on china shipping to get printing again.

If just 2 rolls you can try my wondershop.nz, 2 rolls will be using overnight service country wide but any more than 2 rolls to north island will be economy service(still overnight to south island though)

richms

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#2889320 20-Mar-2022 21:15

I'm not even sure if the included scrap of filament is going to be enough to get thru the cat. Already had an accidental test of the power fail resume thanks to garage RCD power. Resumes fine but a little dimple where it stopped.

Richard rich.ms

richms

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#2889322 20-Mar-2022 21:37

Went with 3dea because there was a better range of colours that look like what I want there in the esun pla+ which is what I was running on my ender pro till I broke it and lost interest.

Richard rich.ms

Glassboy

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#2889353 21-Mar-2022 00:21

richms: I'm not even sure if the included scrap of filament is going to be enough to get thru the cat. Already had an accidental test of the power fail resume thanks to garage RCD power. Resumes fine but a little dimple where it stopped.

The power resume writes to the SDCARD constantly. It will quite quickly get to the maximum writes for a cheap card.

richms

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#2889586 21-Mar-2022 14:25

Glassboy:

The power resume writes to the SDCARD constantly. It will quite quickly get to the maximum writes for a cheap card.

Thats fine, so long as the printer handles a failing card gracefully. If it crashes the board tho that is concerning. SD cards are disposable basically now that none last at all. And they have the cheek to call ones that are not junk "endurance" etc.

Richard rich.ms

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Glassboy

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#2889603 21-Mar-2022 15:36

richms:

Glassboy:

The power resume writes to the SDCARD constantly. It will quite quickly get to the maximum writes for a cheap card.

Thats fine, so long as the printer handles a failing card gracefully. If it crashes the board tho that is concerning. SD cards are disposable basically now that none last at all. And they have the cheek to call ones that are not junk "endurance" etc.

Well you don't want to have it happening half way through a print job. I turned it off.

1101

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#2889874 22-Mar-2022 09:03

Glassboy:

Well you don't want to have it happening half way through a print job. I turned it off.

How did you turn it off ? Did you customize the firmware ?

I printed a spaghetti birds nest mess last night.
Lesson learnt, ~re-level~ (paper printhead height method) after removing & twisting the print surface to try & force off the previous print.

The finished prints are quite hard to remove , stuck on quite firmly.
A big difference from the old printer where I had issues getting the PLA to stick :-)

Ive ordered some upgrades : autolevel sensor & bracket , replacement wheels (some of mine had flat spots) , bed springs (may not need them)

Wakrak

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#2890425 23-Mar-2022 08:31

No idea if this is cheap or not. Kogan has a free shipping deal going at the moment and there's a bunch of Creality gear there.

Use code EOFY at checkout.

Creality in EOFY Free Shipping Computers/Tablets & Networking on Kogan.com

bagheera

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#2890494 23-Mar-2022 09:36

1101:

The finished prints are quite hard to remove , stuck on quite firmly.
A big difference from the old printer where I had issues getting the PLA to stick :-)

We found putting the tray in the fridge for 30 min helps alot on the "stuck" jobs

elpenguino

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#2890499 23-Mar-2022 09:44

1101:

I printed a spaghetti birds nest mess last night.

I carefully levelled the bed but when the print started it looked like the nozzle was ~5mm above the bed and so the filament was just looping everywhere.

I was going to see what I need to do to set the Z axis' zero point but it was too late to continue.

Fun and games ....

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1101

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#2890502 23-Mar-2022 10:07

elpenguino:

I carefully levelled the bed but when the print started it looked like the nozzle was ~5mm above the bed and so the filament was just looping everywhere.

Did you 'home' (then disable steppers) before leveling the bed ?

It sounds like your Z endstop switch is in the wrong position ?

My instruction sheet : the Z microswitch install instruction was for an earlier model .
This newer model , the Z switch bracket has a notch/tab to line up where it needs to be, so move the Z switch bracket down untill the notch/tab hits the rail . That worked for me .
Otherwise I think you can adjust the home points in the menu ?

Looks like I need to re-level after every print , I tried doing 2 prints separate prints last night after leveling just the once.
First print was good, 2nd print nozzle was far to close so that print wasnt usable .

mdf

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#2890508 23-Mar-2022 10:34

1101:

<snip>
My lead screw was at a bit of an angle, I got it as good as I could , bit I'm sure that will go out of wack again.

There are some realtively easy mods for this. Can't find the ones I actually used (years ago), but the equivalent of these:

Z axis motor mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4699747
Z axis top guide: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3033151

richms

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#2890509 23-Mar-2022 10:35

Only issues I have had on my other one was levelling it before it had heated up. Letting it heat up good and proper first means its all expanded into place as it will do. When starting the second print, pre-heat it, leave it to sit for a while and the gap will become correct.

If I re-heat it first then I can just pull one print off and start the next one in almost all cases. And if you stand and watch the first layers its pretty obvious if its pushing down enough to stick or if its just laying strings ontop of the plate.

Richard rich.ms

mdf

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#2890514 23-Mar-2022 10:43

elpenguino:

I carefully levelled the bed but when the print started it looked like the nozzle was ~5mm above the bed and so the filament was just looping everywhere.

I was going to see what I need to do to set the Z axis' zero point but it was too late to continue.

Fun and games ....

Getting your z limit switch right is something of a known issue with Creality. From memory, I ended up cutting off the protruding notch so I could get it where it needed to be with a glass bed. More help here: https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-pro-z-offset/

For those considering an upgrade to the BL touch, you take off the Z limit switch when you upgrade. And if you thought calibrating the manual switch was niggly, calibrating the BL touch is worse (first time at least).

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