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  Reply # 483196 20-Jun-2011 14:15
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Gambit: The 10.6 fronts don't seem to be getting much bass but is that because of my reciever or because they are not bi wired?


Doubt this is due to 'lack' of biwiring.
How have you got the speakers configured in the receiver?
How have you set up the sound levels, bass, treble, Equaliser settings etc?
Does your receiver have an auto mic etc?


Gambit: in the manual it says the 10.1s should be set to small.Is that correct?

Thanks.
Yes, probably.



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Master Geek
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  Reply # 483211 20-Jun-2011 14:55
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I have the fronts set as large and the rest set as small with subwoofer set as yes.
Fronts and centre are set as 3.0m away from where i sit and rears 1.0m.
This is the power rating for the amp:

Power Output Stereo : 100 Watts x 2 (8 ohms 40 - 20,000 Hz, 0.09% THD)

Multi-Channel Output : 100 Watts x 5 (8 ohms 1 kHz, 0.7% THD)

I haven't changed speaker cable yet but will do soon,currently using stuff sony sytem came with pretty skinny and useless.The centre seems pretty dominant than it used to so have out that on-2 with everything else on 0.Bass is on +6 and treble is +2.
Amp is old so no auto set up system on it.Think a new reciever with auto setup and some new cables should get it humming.

Thanks

 
 
 
 


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  Reply # 483221 20-Jun-2011 15:19
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What happens when you turn the base up?
(Does it go any higher than +6?)

What are you using as the source when you say there is no bass?
Does the source have bass present in it?

Have you tried changing the phase on one of the speakers?

Or more realistically, have you changed the phase setting on the subwoofer. If this is wrong then it will compete against the bass from your front speakers, rather than assisting them.



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Master Geek
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  Reply # 483223 20-Jun-2011 15:27
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Sub phase is 180,crossover is 55 and level/volume of sub is 1/2.
Speaker bass only goes up to 6 and how can you change the phase of a speaker?
Watched blu ray this arvo and sub was cranking but had a look at the 10.6s and the speaker wasn't even moving lightly touched it and felt vibrations but not how i thought they would be.

Cheers.

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Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 483275 20-Jun-2011 17:05
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Are the bi-wirable terminals (correctly) jumpered together with the removable metal straps? i.e. so that you aren't only feeding into the treble terminals of the speakers.



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Master Geek
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  Reply # 483305 20-Jun-2011 17:46
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Yeah i think so.I have the wires going into the 2 bottom connections as per the instruction guide.
The straps are still on but i thin you only take them off to biwire the speakers.

Cheers.

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  Reply # 483308 20-Jun-2011 17:51
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Does your receiver have a stereo direct mode that sends full frequency range to the front left and right that you can use to test?  EDIT: I see that you have already set your speaker type set to "large" for the fronts.

re: Speaker phase. Are the wires are on the correct terminals for + and -?



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Master Geek
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  Reply # 483316 20-Jun-2011 18:08
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Yes i think so.I have the red going into the red hole and the black going into the black hole.
Puzzling.

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Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 483335 20-Jun-2011 18:44
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Also, make sure your amp is outputting full range to the speakers.

Not only do you have to set fronts to 'Large', as you have done, you might have to ensure the amp is outputting LFE to the both the SW and the Fronts as a separate setting.

On my Yamaha DSP-A1 for example, I do need to ensure both - for LFE output the setting on my amp are either 'S/W, Front, or Both'. If the fronts aren't set to 'Large' AND the output setting 'Front' or 'Both', then no LFE goes to the fronts. LFE being defined in the amps case as anything under 90Hz. YMMV.

The DSP-A1 is 100 watts per channel, and it has no trouble driving full range floorstanding speakers (although it is an extremely good quality 100 watts!). At 6Ohms and 88dB sensitivity, your amp should be able to get the woofers moving, all other things being equal. And I doubt it's the cheap cable stopping you, but it doesn't pay to upgrade to something more chunky regardless.

Also, since the amp is controlling the LFE balance, you should turn the sub's crossover as high as it will go and let the amp sort it out.

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Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 483350 20-Jun-2011 19:27
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um.. shouldn't the crossover be set to low to ensure the lows get through to the main speakers? i.e. setting the crossover on the amp to 60hz will make everything below 60hz go to the sub. Or have I got that wrong?

Possibly for a test, you set the receiver to no sub and see what comes through.

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  Reply # 483355 20-Jun-2011 19:40
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If you tell the amp to control the bottom end frequency distribution, then you can turn your sub up as high as it can go - and not suffer the consequences you'd expect.

If you choose to not use the amp to control the low end sounds, then you'll have to use the control on the back of the sub.

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Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 483362 20-Jun-2011 19:46
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Ah gotcha. Thanks.



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Master Geek
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  Reply # 483363 20-Jun-2011 19:48
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I don't know if the reciever does anything like this.
I found a post on a forum that syas this-

This receiver has only 1 crossover setting, 150Hz (or around there). I think this high a crossover helps with the lack of power somewhat, at a cost of a huge hole between 150Hz and whatever your sub tops out at (mine is crossed over at 100Hz). Going subless and "Large" on the xls will cost you power, but fill the hole.

I must be a supernoob!
Not too sure what to do.



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Master Geek
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  Reply # 483386 20-Jun-2011 20:32
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Just found a couple more thiings in a manual.

Reproduction frequency range  28hz-200hz

and

High frequency cut-off frequency 150hz.

Don't know if that makes any more sense.


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  Reply # 483395 20-Jun-2011 20:49
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It does.

Your receiver basically sends the LFE (Low Frequency Effects) signal to the subwoofer and the normal speakers so long as you have set them to 'Large'. You can therefore specify which of your speakers receives the LFE signals, hence will produce the bass frequencies they are capable of. Your Wharfedale 10.6's are actually very capable in this regards (going to 35Hz) - hence definitely should be set to 'Large'. As stated above, I do assume the receiver has the grunt to drive them properly - but then again - it may not!

In your receiver's case, it regards anything below 150Hz as 'LFE', which is actually a pretty high cutoff. As mentioned, my Yammy DSP-A1 regards 90Hz or lower as LFE for the purposes of 'Large' versus 'Small'.

Practically, this means if you set everything to 'Small' and don't have a subwoofer, you'll get no sounds below 150Hz. If you set any speaker to 'Large', it will get the full range - all the way from +20KHz down to 28Hz. The subwoofer channel only gets frequencies up to 150Hz (again, this is pretty high), which is the reason you can turn its onboard crossover all the way up to maximum - it's your receiver providing the crossover, and you'd best let it do it's job, rather than you trying to estimate how far around you've tweaked the dial.

I hope this is more clear than mud?

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