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  # 240700 30-Jul-2009 18:40
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Agree, get a digital timer from Bunnings. It does 7 days, programmed in 1 minute steps. If you are energy conscious, be aware that the cheap timers consumes about 7W which is ridiculous for a timer (almost the same power as a light bulb). I suspect the more expensive known brands are lower, but have not checked.




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  # 240711 30-Jul-2009 19:18
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I use and recommend the HPM 7-day digital timers from Dick Smith etc.

http://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/lighting_and_electrical/cords_and_power_boards/hpm_7_day_digital_timer_103337.cfm

Very versatile, lots of programs (not that that's as much of a problem for your purposes). I have them powering my coffee machine and hi-fi system for the morning radio.

Also, they have battery backup and are much more accurate / fine-controllable than the plastic-fin-manual jobbies.

At the end of the day though, why do you need to contantly power cycle your router? Shouldn't that be the focus? Time for a used cisco, a draytek, or a WRT54G running open-source? I note that your ben.geek page is what I've used for my own RTA1320 / WRT54GS setup - so what gives?

 
 
 
 


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  # 240733 30-Jul-2009 20:04
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If they really took 7 watts, they would be warm, if the elto power meter says they take 7 watts, thats because those power meters are crap - the newer ones that take 3 batteries seem better then the older 2 battery ones, but still really bad.

I have one in the shed for the dehumidifier, shed is on its own meter and the meter doesnt turn with just the timer in any case.




Richard rich.ms

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  # 240788 30-Jul-2009 23:55
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At the end of the day though, why do you need to contantly power cycle your router? Shouldn't that be the focus? Time for a used cisco, a draytek, or a WRT54G running open-source? I note that your ben.geek page is what I've used for my own RTA1320 / WRT54GS setup - so what gives?


My 1320 started singing at me then eventually shat itself (capacitors probably). So now I'm running with the Homehub that came with my Orcon+ connection, and that clogs up after 3-4 days of activity.

Sigh.

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  # 240812 31-Jul-2009 06:41
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Just get another RTA1320 off trademe, as new for ~$20.  That would last you another 1-2 years, good price/performance hah.

You get bonus points if you ghetto mod it with a spare fan or old spare heatsink for extra longevity.

Alternatively, I'm using a Linksys AM300 at the moment... works equally fine in half bridge but without the overheating problems of the 1320.





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  # 240891 31-Jul-2009 11:33
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Couldn't agree more - jus' nab another RTA1320. My ghetto-mod is great!

Having said that, if you wouldn't mind being a guinea pig and running a Dreytek Vigor 120 in PPoA->PPoE passthrough mode and let us know how that goes, that'd be even better :)

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  # 241112 31-Jul-2009 22:37
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richms: If they really took 7 watts, they would be warm


My Elto digital timer failed, so being an electronic engineer I repaired it.  From the mains it has a resistor and Zener diode to give a regulated supply for the electronics.  It is a universal mains supply design, i.e. it works at 110V and 240V.  At 240V it works out to 30mA current through the Zener diode.  Drawing 30mA at 240V is 7.2W.  Now this is where I've just realised possibly a mistake in my calculation - if it is half wave rectified it is 3.6W, but I can't remember if it is half wave rectified or full wave rectified, think is was full wave rectified because I did look closely at how it is designed.  Either way it is still a lot, and yes they do get hot but most is conducted out via the mains contacts and the rest of the heat is distributed over a large plastic surface so you do not notice it.  My gut feeling is that the HPM timers will be better designed, being a local brand name.




You can never have enough Volvos!


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