$/100km. 91 v 95 octane petrol?

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bazzer

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Reply # 755976 5-Feb-2013 11:08

Talkiet:

Relevant.

N

Interesting that even the "supermaket" unleaded that all cars have to be able to run on is still 95 though.

Batman

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Reply # 756023 5-Feb-2013 12:26

everyone gets their fuel from the same guy ... a bit like budget milk in countdown

Athlonite

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Reply # 756239 5-Feb-2013 19:32

Hmmmmm Interesting subject all I can say is in my 92 Toyota Corolla around town I get better fuel efficiency when using 91 than I do on long trips which seems to do better when using 95 an trip from Napier to Gisborne 216KMs uses $47 of 91 but only $38 of 95

I regularly change my own oil and filter aswell as clean the air filter check tire pressures (32psi) all round and clean and gap the plugs I also use techtalloy anti boil/freeze coolant which lasts 2+ years and wash and polish the outside every month ( a dirty car creates more drag)

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Reply # 756287 5-Feb-2013 20:42

There is so many discrepancies because only the insider toyota or nissan or vw or whatever engineer knows the whole engine mapping etc ... The rest of us are guessing with each model which may be different from another... I think?

There are some obvious answers: a turboncharged car running on 91 will give less torque. Fuel economy etc who knows.
A 4 cylinder thing designed to run on 91 (let me strss i dont think japan has 91 fuel) wont give you more power running 98. Fuel economy who knows

1eStar

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Reply # 756321 5-Feb-2013 21:34

Gordy7: This 95RON started because I have been looking at a Suzuki Alto that is on special for $15K and comparing that with Toyota and Nissan small cars.

Cheers

To answer your original query here's the math:

95 fuel is around 8-10c more per litre which relates to about 4% dearer than the 91 at the $2.10 - $2.15 it is now
your example vehicles were 4.8l/100km and 5.5l/100km which is about 15% more economical

you are winning with the higher octane fuelled car (if you can manage to actually acheive that efficiency)

cyril7

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Reply # 756365 5-Feb-2013 22:48

Fuel at the pumps in Japan is 89 or 96, and some places sell a 100. in the US its 89, 91 and depending on vendor you can get 98 or 100.

Fuel off the cracker is in the early to mid 80s so all fuel has some added fillers to adjust the knock rating.

Cyril

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Reply # 756415 6-Feb-2013 08:13

the fuel rating in japan and USA is different.

89 is our 95, 91 is our 98 ... presumably 93 is our 100 (non existent)

something like that ... that's what i read from the american forums

europe is probably the same as australasia (can't remember)

so be careful when comparing RON ratings across countries/continents

ajobbins

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Reply # 756616 6-Feb-2013 16:29

joker97: the fuel rating in japan and USA is different.

89 is our 95, 91 is our 98 ... presumably 93 is our 100 (non existent)

Not sure why you say that, RON is a standard for measurement.

Are you sure you are not confusing with MON or AKI?

95 RON is approx 90-91 AKI/85-86 MON

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Reply # 756621 6-Feb-2013 16:46

cyril7: Fuel at the pumps in Japan is 89 or 96, and some places sell a 100. in the US its 89, 91 and depending on vendor you can get 98 or 100.

Fuel off the cracker is in the early to mid 80s so all fuel has some added fillers to adjust the knock rating.

Cyril

yes i have used ron and aki wrongly but you can't compare the above numbers everyqhere for this reason

ajobbins

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Reply # 756626 6-Feb-2013 16:51

joker97:
cyril7: Fuel at the pumps in Japan is 89 or 96, and some places sell a 100. in the US its 89, 91 and depending on vendor you can get 98 or 100.

Fuel off the cracker is in the early to mid 80s so all fuel has some added fillers to adjust the knock rating.

Cyril

yes i have used ron and aki wrongly but you can't compare the above numbers everyqhere for this reason

Regular gas in Japan is 90 RON. In the US/AU/NZ etc it's 91-92 RON

There is a table here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating#Examples_of_octane_ratings

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cyril7

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Reply # 756630 6-Feb-2013 16:58

So the answer is, we are no different to many countries with regards to a 91 RON fuel. Western Europe is an obvious exception.

I worked in Moldova for a period, I dont know what the common fuel octane rating was but the V8 Jeep Cherokees we had could not use the local basic stuff and we had to use only a couple of stations which carried 96.

Seem Volga's and Lada's will run on literally anything, mind you the output results we similarly un stellar.

Cyril

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Reply # 756653 6-Feb-2013 18:24

awesome, so my nissan is tuned the same as the nissan in japan.

but apparently germany "rarely offers RON91, the standard fuel is RON95-100"

so german cars are special huh

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Reply # 756655 6-Feb-2013 18:26

rayonline: Just branching on something I am curious about and may be of usefulness to the OP. Those of you who have cars, how much regular maintenance do you do on it? We always change the oil and filter every 6 months, the Hays car manual from the library says least once per 12 months but they also prescribe items like air filters, fuel filters, spark plugs, flush the radiator and brakes. We obviously change the various belts after a certain time. But yeah ... how much of the maintenance jobs do you do to the car? I cannot remember the if ever we changed the spark plugs, fuel filters, air filters unless the mechanic picked it up. But we had 5 or 10yr old cars that were in tidy condition .....

It all depends on how I drive and what I put in it. But I get under the car every 6 months at least. I use synthetic oils, so I don't touch the oil for 10,000K's unless it's done a lot of idle or the engine oil is dirty or has done some heavy towing, in which case I'll do oil 7,500K's. On dinosaur oil I change it every 5,000K's or 6 months, whichever comes first as it breaks down with age not just running time. Diesel 5,000K's at the most! It's very dirty and acidic.

I've done 60,000K's on one set of plugs and gapped them once in between. Again, depends on the type, modern expensive Bosch platinums will do tens of thousands and have multi-gaps on them. Regular cheap plugs I'd replace them every 5-10,000K's. Fuel, well I have gone 60,000K's on one filter, naughty I know but I replace them when I run injector cleaner through, no where near often enough.

O2 sensors every 100-150,000K's.

Air, ummmm, I take the filter out and blow it out with compressed air while topping the tyres up every month or two. I replace them when needed but not very often, maybe 25,000K's with the transmission oil/strainer/magnet. I do the rear diff every second trans change. But again, some cars require it much more others much less depending how you drive and where you drive etc...

Brakes, pads when they squeal, grease the calipers every 100,000K's. Rotors re-machined or replaced 150,000K's. Check the boots on the calipers every time I rotate the tires 15,000K's or so (once a year). Cambelt, tensioner and oil front main/cam seals every 90,000K's (even if the mechanic says the tensioner is fine) and water pump every second unless leaking.

At 100,000K's I replace tie rod and steering rack boots, along with CV boots before they crack. I check them every 6 months at least while I'm giving it a go over. Pay to get the valves adjusted if the engine design requires it.

At 170,000K's I start replacing idler pulleys on the A/C power steering etc.... they usually start giving up and groan by 180,000K's.

Coolant/Antifreeze every 2 years, checked at least once a month when I top up washer fluids etc... never have to put any in. Replaced the thermostat once in 80,000K's but should do it every couple of oil changes.

Battery, yeah terminals are annoying on some cars. On one's that corrode I wash it down with a solution of water/baking soda to neutralise the acid before washing it down. But the first thing I do with a car, replace the battery to a much bigger one and put new brass terminals on... then replace the battery every 3-5 years but always before the 5th year winter (first good old snap stops the reaction in them - why they always go flat usually in winter).

As for the orginal post: I've drivin 91 and 95, in the same engine with knock sensors and disconnecting the battery when going from 91-95 to reset the computer, it should be the same price. 95 will do better k's if driven the same as a 91. Some engines much use 95+, my last car required 98 minimum due to compression ratio.

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Reply # 756657 6-Feb-2013 18:34

at what compression ratio do you not use RON91 despite what the manual says? (surely that suzuki that someone mentioned had a high compression ratio, surely the manual would've stated ron91?)

surfisup1000

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Reply # 756673 6-Feb-2013 19:28

sbiddle: Cars are tuned for specific octane fuel - you won't necessarily get any better performance with the different octane. Try running 91 in an engine tuned for 95 and you will notice sluggish performance..

I bought a new car and asked about this. The dealership said to use either, the cars engine management system self tunes.

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