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  Reply # 2127127 15-Nov-2018 12:10
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Paul1977:

 

antoniosk:

 

Thats bad luck. The builder takes responsibility as part of supplying the service, and given it's a few months old thats nowhere near the end of its useful life. I know its frustrating for all... but yeah give a call. He may wish to angle cut the bent bit off and replace it with a straight piece rather than rip the post out and start again, so be prepared for a conversation.

 

 

I have little (to no) building experience. So to dumbing it down for me, is replacing the top part of the post a reasonable fix?

 

 

I've seen it done on other fences, but it will never be as strong as a single piece of wood and the cut/join will be visible. I expect it will be a 45 degree cut, 4 sturdy screw pins in the wood with a bolt or two across the join, PVA glue and so on. Visually it might look a bit grim, and this feels a little cowboy, but it is an option compared to ripping out the post and starting again.

 

You should call and discuss with the builder.





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  Reply # 2127128 15-Nov-2018 12:10
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nickb800:

 

Unfortunately this is pretty common these days due to the quality of timber available. You probably could get him to replace the whole post under your CGA rights, but personally I think it's a bit harsh since there is nothing he could have done to mitigate it, and I doubt his supplier would pay the invoice for his time and concrete. 

 

A 4x4 post warping would have a lot of force, so using a more secure fitting would probably have resulted in the fence being pulled out of line. 

 

 

 

The good news is that I would expect your fence posts have done most of the warping that they are ever going to do.

 

If it were me, I'd get the builder to pack the post-railing gap with some H3 timber and then drive a couple more screws through to hold it all together.

 

 

Yeah, I don't want to be a jerk and make him pull out the whole post of there are other easier solution that are just as good.

 

The problem with packing the gap is that I was planning to mount a retractable hose reel on the post, so would much rather have it straight.


 
 
 
 


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  Reply # 2127133 15-Nov-2018 12:18
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I have this on a few posts, 7yo house, fence painted black. I thought I might remove a paling and bolt it, and gradually tighten it up, but maybe too late for that? Another option is to cut the post above the middle rail, bolt a new post to the cut post, and put a triangle filler on the top of the cut post to make it look more "normal", or screw on a wood plate for putting things on, sort of disguising the job. 


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  Reply # 2127135 15-Nov-2018 12:22
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Paul1977:

MikeB4:


Our fences all have carriage bolts right through the rail and post using bolts and washers like these. That would have prevented the post from warping and pulling away. I would say all your posts and rails are at risk.



I can't say I've ever paid that much attention, but I don't know that I ever seen a residential paling fence with the bolts going right through the post. Wouldn't that make for a rather visually unappealing looking fence?


EDIT: and that might have just cause the warping to pull the top of the fence onto the same angle as the warped post?



I think Paul is right - there’s a lot of strength in a post that’s determined to warp like that. Bolting the rails to the post wouldn’t have stopped it bending much, if at all. You’d just have ended up with a kink in the fence. It’s probably better the way it is because at least the fence is still straight. Still needs to be fixed though.

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  Reply # 2127139 15-Nov-2018 12:34
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Paul1977:

 

 

 

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If you arranged the builder and paid him, why did you get the post and rails on your side?


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  Reply # 2127140 15-Nov-2018 12:40
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clevedon:

 

 

 

 

 

If you arranged the builder and paid him, why did you get the post and rails on your side?

 

 

 

 

We have done it that way it makes it harder to climb over from the other side.





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  Reply # 2127142 15-Nov-2018 12:48
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MikeB4:

 

clevedon:

 

 

 

 

 

If you arranged the builder and paid him, why did you get the post and rails on your side?

 

 

 

 

We have done it that way it makes it harder to climb over from the other side.

 

 

 

 

Bugger that, I'd run a hot wire along the top before choosing the ugly side of the fence.

 

Mind you, I've never lived in a dodgy area to have to worry about it.


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  Reply # 2127144 15-Nov-2018 12:50
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Have a chat with him mate and come back to us, Don't go working yourself up with all these hypothetical situations and outcomes. Just see what he says and if you are happy with this offering then go ahead, if not let us know and we can draw on some of or past experiences or knowledge to help :)
Looks like the fence was built well enough. Rough sawn timber like that will also warp over time, mostly because they saw it wet then it slowly sets in a different position as it dries. Using an oil/stain can apparently help with this or painting it can too. Seals in the existing moisture. 
If those palings are touching the soil expect the fence to rot in under 5 years. I can't tell but if they are then I'd question the builder.





 


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  Reply # 2127145 15-Nov-2018 12:55
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clevedon:

 

 

 

Bugger that, I'd run a hot wire along the top before choosing the ugly side of the fence.

 

Mind you, I've never lived in a dodgy area to have to worry about it.

 

 

At adds safety for neighbours kids especially if you have pools in addition to the pool fencing.





Mike
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The views stated in my posts are my personal views and not that of any other organisation.

 

 Mac user, Windows curser, Chrome OS desired.

 

The great divide is the lies from both sides.

 

 




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  Reply # 2127156 15-Nov-2018 13:10
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clevedon:

 

If you arranged the builder and paid him, why did you get the post and rails on your side?

 

 

All our fences are shared with neighboring properties. We got the good side on the other fence.




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  Reply # 2127163 15-Nov-2018 13:17
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Coil:

 

Have a chat with him mate and come back to us, Don't go working yourself up with all these hypothetical situations and outcomes. Just see what he says and if you are happy with this offering then go ahead, if not let us know and we can draw on some of or past experiences or knowledge to help :)
Looks like the fence was built well enough. Rough sawn timber like that will also warp over time, mostly because they saw it wet then it slowly sets in a different position as it dries. Using an oil/stain can apparently help with this or painting it can too. Seals in the existing moisture. 
If those palings are touching the soil expect the fence to rot in under 5 years. I can't tell but if they are then I'd question the builder.

 


 

Not getting worked up. I just like to be as well informed as possible before entering a situation.

 

From what I can tell the fence was built very well. He did another fence on the other side of the property several years ago, and also a car port for us and we have been very happy with them.

 

Yeah, we do need to clear a little bit of soil out from the bottom. That was us, not the builder. As an aside... how can you not have palings touching the soil and at the same time not have a gap at the bottom of the fence?


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  Reply # 2127170 15-Nov-2018 13:25
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Paul1977:

 

Coil:

 

Have a chat with him mate and come back to us, Don't go working yourself up with all these hypothetical situations and outcomes. Just see what he says and if you are happy with this offering then go ahead, if not let us know and we can draw on some of or past experiences or knowledge to help :)
Looks like the fence was built well enough. Rough sawn timber like that will also warp over time, mostly because they saw it wet then it slowly sets in a different position as it dries. Using an oil/stain can apparently help with this or painting it can too. Seals in the existing moisture. 
If those palings are touching the soil expect the fence to rot in under 5 years. I can't tell but if they are then I'd question the builder.

 


 

Not getting worked up. I just like to be as well informed as possible before entering a situation.

 

From what I can tell the fence was built very well. He did another fence on the other side of the property several years ago, and also a car port for us and we have been very happy with them.

 

Yeah, we do need to clear a little bit of soil out from the bottom. That was us, not the builder. As an aside... how can you not have palings touching the soil and at the same time not have a gap at the bottom of the fence?

 

 

Sorry, Im not meaning you are just don't let yourself do that. Personally I do and I end up over thinking the situations then encounter the situation and its much better than I'd ever theorized so that stress was wasted energy!
The gap is up to you but I suggest at least 2 inches. Wood will draw water out the ground and even treated timber will rot. 





 


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  Reply # 2127176 15-Nov-2018 13:42
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Coil:

 

Paul1977:

 

Coil:

 

Have a chat with him mate and come back to us, Don't go working yourself up with all these hypothetical situations and outcomes. Just see what he says and if you are happy with this offering then go ahead, if not let us know and we can draw on some of or past experiences or knowledge to help :)
Looks like the fence was built well enough. Rough sawn timber like that will also warp over time, mostly because they saw it wet then it slowly sets in a different position as it dries. Using an oil/stain can apparently help with this or painting it can too. Seals in the existing moisture. 
If those palings are touching the soil expect the fence to rot in under 5 years. I can't tell but if they are then I'd question the builder.

 


 

Not getting worked up. I just like to be as well informed as possible before entering a situation.

 

From what I can tell the fence was built very well. He did another fence on the other side of the property several years ago, and also a car port for us and we have been very happy with them.

 

Yeah, we do need to clear a little bit of soil out from the bottom. That was us, not the builder. As an aside... how can you not have palings touching the soil and at the same time not have a gap at the bottom of the fence?

 

 

Sorry, Im not meaning you are just don't let yourself do that. Personally I do and I end up over thinking the situations then encounter the situation and its much better than I'd ever theorized so that stress was wasted energy!
The gap is up to you but I suggest at least 2 inches. Wood will draw water out the ground and even treated timber will rot. 

 

 

Concrete mowing strip is the best way.


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  Reply # 2127179 15-Nov-2018 13:46
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Landscapers made me a new fence and gates around half of my boundary 2 years ago. 

 

Since then one third of the posts have warped to some degree and the gate post has been repaired 6 times finally replacing it with a laminated post.

 

I went off my head about it and even went to Mitre 10 where timber was purchased and was told it is a fact of life these days and to guarantee posts dont warp they should all be laminated. These are quite costly.

 

All the cross timbers were screwed in place so no damage really done other than its not as straight as it should be. I have black stain for it but have held off using it as I am told black just makes it warp more.

 

Eyes wise open next time for sure.


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  Reply # 2127184 15-Nov-2018 13:53
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The problem is fence timber is basically wet from the timber yard and is going to warp considerably if dryed quickly.

I always try to dry timber as much as possible before building a fence, for this reason, and so you don’t have giant gaps between the slats from shrinkage but a builder is not going to be able to do that practically.

As mentioned, for the way it is contructed, it should have had bolts which would at least keep it together.

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