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Hmm, what to write...
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  Reply # 1450547 15-Dec-2015 09:07
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greminn: BTW my 8 port switch is going to run out of ports i think.. might need a 48 port :) maybe with a couple of 10gig uplink ports... future proof it!


Sure, you tell the wife you need one for Christmas

Personally I got  a Gigabit 24 port POE with 2 expansion slots...more than enough for now

oh...make sure you get a fanless one...unless your switch is in the garage.




Matthew




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  Reply # 1450548 15-Dec-2015 09:09
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mdooher:

Sure, you tell the wife you need one for Christmas

Personally I got  a Gigabit 24 port POE with 2 expansion slots...more than enough for now


Actually - now that you mention it, have to get POE as then the network cameras don't need external PoE injectors!

BTR

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  Reply # 1450553 15-Dec-2015 09:14
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greminn: BTW my 8 port switch is going to run out of ports i think.. might need a 48 port :) maybe with a couple of 10gig uplink ports... future proof it!



Sounds like your sparky doesn't know what he's doing with data cabling. IMO electricians shouldn't touch data cabling and leave it to professionals. Most electricians I have seen use a cheap $40 tester when professional data cablers usually use a tester thats over $1000 in value and picks up a lot more detail.


Good cablers should use the same brand of jack, cable and patch panel with each ports being fully tested. The cabler I use at work keeps all of the test result and give me a copy for my piece of mind and I end up with a 10 year warranty on the installation.


 
Looking at the info you have provided I am guessing he has terminated half of the cabling at the patch panel in B standard and the jacks are probably in A standard therefore it won't work.

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  Reply # 1450600 15-Dec-2015 09:49
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A 24 port patch panel would be a sensible investment, but you only need a switch for the number of active connections.  I'm installing and cabling up a 24 port patch panel for my network at home, but only using an 8 port switch as only have a couple of live devices.



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  Reply # 1450757 15-Dec-2015 13:23
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OK so just to clarify (i think i have this correct) - the electrician has wired this up wrong :)

The wall sockets show that this is A-spec, but both are incorrect. We have orange wires going into green sockets and green into orange - this is the issue.

Also at the patch panel end (at lease the wall sockets are correctly numbered). We have patch port 11 wired as B-spec and patch port 12 correctly wired as A-spec.

So.. we need to change patch port 11 to A-spec and get them to fix the wall sockets? 

I can do this myself, but really i paid them todo a job right?

Cheers for the help!


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  Reply # 1450771 15-Dec-2015 13:34
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greminn: OK so just to clarify (i think i have this correct) - the electrician has wired this up wrong :)

The wall sockets show that this is A-spec, but both are incorrect. We have orange wires going into green sockets and green into orange - this is the issue.

Also at the patch panel end (at lease the wall sockets are correctly numbered). We have patch port 11 wired as B-spec and patch port 12 correctly wired as A-spec.

So.. we need to change patch port 11 to A-spec and get them to fix the wall sockets? 

I can do this myself, but really i paid them todo a job right?

Cheers for the help!



You are correct, you could do the shortcut and wire up the panel B spec but this is not a good idea. You have A spec faceplate modules so wire the whole thing A spec.... on that note go buy a Krone tool and do it your self...you are an expert now

By the way the blue sheath on those jacks (and more importantly the twist) should go right up to the modules




Matthew




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  Reply # 1450777 15-Dec-2015 13:42
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mdooher:

You are correct, you could do the shortcut and wire up the panel B spec but this is not a good idea. You have A spec faceplate modules so wire the whole thing A spec.... on that note go buy a Krone tool and do it your self...you are an expert now

By the way the blue sheath on those jacks (and more importantly the twist) should go right up to the modules


Thanks for that - yep im going to do this myself from now on.. this is how they should look yes (with the blue sheath etc right up to the modules)?

Click to see full size



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  Reply # 1450778 15-Dec-2015 13:42
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Yea looks like they decided to use B on the wall plates and then messed up one of the wires on the patch plate. Port 11 should in theory work

I have to wonder if they used a tool on those wall plates. To me the cables don't look like they go far enough down into the contacts.

Anyway if it was me I would send that photo to the manager of who ever you used. Otherwise someone else is likely to have the same problem as your having.




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  Reply # 1450784 15-Dec-2015 13:48
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greminn:
mdooher:

You are correct, you could do the shortcut and wire up the panel B spec but this is not a good idea. You have A spec faceplate modules so wire the whole thing A spec.... on that note go buy a Krone tool and do it your self...you are an expert now

By the way the blue sheath on those jacks (and more importantly the twist) should go right up to the modules


Thanks for that - yep im going to do this myself from now on.. this is how they should look yes (with the blue sheath etc right up to the modules)?

Click to see full size



Yep, that is what you aiming for, your own panel looks reasonable (not Brilliant) but your wall plates need doing properly. I don't have a picture but the method I use for the wall jacks is as follows

Remove sheath
bend out each pair into the correct direction
then push the sheath between the connectors so that the top pair goes straight out at 180 degrees from each other and the bottom pair gets folded back on the sheath slightly before going into their terminals.







Matthew


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  Reply # 1450814 15-Dec-2015 14:19
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As has already been said, the wires (particularly in the wall plates) don't look to be punched down far enough. Did the installer use one of those plastic Krone tools you get with telephone sockets?  Go and buy a decent Krone tool and for any wires you don't change, repunch them anyway.
And the way they have untwisted the wires from the end of the sheath all the way to the socket makes me cringe.

To be honest, I'd take those photos, together with a list of what changes you had to make to get it working, and for a refund.  But I certainly wouldn't be getting them back to fix it looking at the job they did the first time around!

BTR

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  Reply # 1450827 15-Dec-2015 14:39
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Did he work for a larger company or was he an owner operator? If he worked for a larger company ask to speak to his manager and let them know as he needs more training. Personally I would tell the company you want it fixed and if they can wire data cabling correctly then they should take that sort of work on.

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  Reply # 1451092 15-Dec-2015 19:54
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yes, call them back and ask them to wire it properly.  

it needs to be wired for a-spec as every patch lead you buy from any nz store will likely be a-spec

did they supply the patch leads?  all the more LOL if they did

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  Reply # 1451108 15-Dec-2015 20:04
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Patch leads dont matter if they are A or B since they are wired the same at both ends. Infact they dont even really need to have the wired coloured in the patch leads at all since you wont care as they are already made. Same reason I never understood why they have coloured wires inside pre-made USB or mains cables. The robot that makes them doesnt care about colours.




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  Reply # 1451138 15-Dec-2015 20:39
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rav4chch: <snip> Go and buy a decent Krone tool and for any wires you don't change, repunch them anyway.<snip>


I know it has been commented on before but (most) RJ45 related Pannels and Jacks unless it states on them that they are for 'Krone' or have KATT printed on them the correct Tool is a AT&T 110 Punch tool (or Equivalent) not a Krone tool as the Pin offset is differant - Krone IDCs can only be punched down fwith the tool set around one way / AT&T 110 IDCs can be punched down from either direction.

BT Jacks based on a European Standard use Krone

RJ45 Jacks based on an American Standard use 110

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  Reply # 1451205 15-Dec-2015 22:11
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richms: Patch leads dont matter if they are A or B since they are wired the same at both ends. Infact they dont even really need to have the wired coloured in the patch leads at all since you wont care as they are already made. Same reason I never understood why they have coloured wires inside pre-made USB or mains cables. The robot that makes them doesnt care about colours.
different pairs have different twist rates. they're coloured (amongst other reasons) because the cables come off runs that are installed by both robots and humans.

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