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8916 posts

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  # 1989743 6-Apr-2018 20:54
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im pretty sure all the ones mentioned in the first post serve that function.

 

but what is wrong with your current router?


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  # 1992760 10-Apr-2018 14:16
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Brand new here, and have read most of the Ubiquiti tutorial thread, but still have a question regarding the ERLite that I bought last week... is it the right choice?

 

I look after IT at our Church and until last week, had an Inbox router in front of a (now very) old Firebox firewall.  The Firebox has been great in that it gives 3 independent/segregated subnets for the three user groups.  It seems that the Firebox is slowing the Internet down to the end-users and also RDP is falling over a bit and a restart of the Firebox sorts that out.  The only other thing that the firebox does is port-forwarding.

 

Internet is presently 100/50 but is being upgraded in a week to 200/200, and I'm now wondering whether I'd have been better served in buying a bigger router/something that I can individually configure each or the 3/4 LAN ports as required with their own subnet and DHCP ?

 

Would value some guidance please.


 
 
 
 




Mr Snotty
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  # 1992776 10-Apr-2018 14:45
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@fritzman The Edgerouter Lite will handle this totally fine. If you wanted something that is easy to manage maybe consider the USG which is the Edgerouter hardware and software but with the UniFi controller also.





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  # 2002433 25-Apr-2018 17:15
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I have a HG659b on Spark Fibre plugged into the ONU, and am generally happy with its routing performance, however my wife and kids are constantly complaining about Wi-Fi dropouts, etc.
The router is situated in my office, a floor down from the main living area, and I've been using a little Wi-Fi extender to extend coverage to the far end of the house (speeds not important there), but this is less than optimal, and it's a PITA to keep resetting it. Moving the router is not really feasible.
I've looked at the parent post of this amazing thread, and from what I understand, I think something from the "Wireless Access Point" section (such as the Cambium E600) is the way to go. Given that my current router is fine apart from its Wi-Fi performance, I can't see the benefit of spending $300 or so for better Wi-Fi alone.
A couple of questions
-Am I correct in thinking that these connect by this will plug into my router, and be configurable from there?
-A lot of these seem to be ceiling-mounted - how would they work on the ceiling under the main living floor? Would there still be sufficient signal on the floor above to be usable? I'm more concerned by a solid signal than blistering speeds.

 

 


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  # 2002456 25-Apr-2018 18:25
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you really need a way of getting Ethernet cabling from the router to where the Access point will be, not really worth it if you cant do this. if you are unable to do this, then a mess system might be more what you want.

 

The E600 is likely over kill for what you want

 

your questions
- yes once plugged in you can configure it, i did my E400's plugged into my laptop.
- would work but not the best performance, see the mesh comment above.


24 posts

Geek


  # 2002501 25-Apr-2018 20:26
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Our household also has an HG659b which dropped clients periodically (only a 4 person household, but numerous networked devices).

 

I have resolved the issues by utilizing a spare Mikrotik RB1100AHx2 - which is plugged into the ONT and now handles all of the routing.  I have reconfigured the HG659b so that it acts a bridge only - it provides Wifi access at one end of the house, and an old Linksys/Cisco router in bridge mode provides a Wifi AP at the other end of the house.

 

I have put most of the device-interfaces onto to static IP's (devices are labelled using comments) - makes disabling internet access for the kids devices much quicker and easier ....


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  # 2004151 28-Apr-2018 15:45
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Jase2985:

 

you really need a way of getting Ethernet cabling from the router to where the Access point will be, not really worth it if you cant do this. if you are unable to do this, then a mess system might be more what you want.

 

The E600 is likely over kill for what you want

 

your questions
- yes once plugged in you can configure it, i did my E400's plugged into my laptop.
- would work but not the best performance, see the mesh comment above.

 

 

Thanks for the input.

 

TBH, I'm rather thinking I'll just go for the the Grandstream GWN7000 along with a GWN761. A little more than I want to spend, but when I think of the hours I've spent messing around with cheaper setups, it will probably be worth it, rather than attaching the access point to my current router and fiddling around with that.
I hadn't considered the flexibility afforded by PoE, and I have a fairly central location that shouldn't be too hard to string Cat5e to.

 

As always, the breadth of good ideas and common sense solutions available on this forum never ceases to amaze me.


 
 
 
 


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  # 2004155 28-Apr-2018 15:51
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you could also try something like the netgear orbi setup or similar which doesnt require a cable


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  # 2019947 21-May-2018 16:21
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What real world affect does MU-MIMO have on WiFi performance? I see some of the newer high end routers have it as a feature. Is it something that looks great on the spec sheet but makes very little difference in reality?
Fibre is still a year away from my street and I'll just use the HG659b I was given for my change to VDSL, as a modem in the interim. So want a decent wifi router to last once fibre shows up.
I have 20+ wired and 20+ wifi (mix of 2.4 and 5.0GHz) devices at the moment and both are equally important. All my previous routers have been combi modem/routers so the move to separate components is new to me so want to make an informed purchase.




Areas of Geek interest: Home Theatre, HTPC, Android Tablets & Phones, iProducts.

800 posts

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  # 2019966 21-May-2018 17:14
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Dingbatt: What real world affect does MU-MIMO have on WiFi performance? I see some of the newer high end routers have it as a feature. Is it something that looks great on the spec sheet but makes very little difference in reality?

 

If you don't have capable devices as well, it doesn't make much difference - but with the upcoming stuff, it will for sure. *MU-MIMO*





- ISP1: T-OneBox FTTH modem, 1/.5G, full DS, VLAN7, VoIP + ipTV streaming flat

 

- ISP2: 4G/LTE USB modem + TL-MR3020, 100/40M data plan (wireless fallback)

 

- NET: ZBOX nano router, 2 C2960X-48TS-L, 2 GWN7630, GWN7610, EL1600usb

 

- SVR: E3C236 32G/20TB, 2 H2 16G/500GB, HC2 4TB, 2 C2 1TB | 2 HC2 14/1TB

 

- IoT+3D: LoRaWAN, 5G, CCU3 (openHAB/MQTT), 2 Ender-3, UM2E+, UM3, CNC

 

- USR: NUC8i7HVK, EliteBook 840, Aspire E5, N2, Galaxy Tab, mobiles, 2 4K TVs

 

- ipPBX: GRP2613, GO-Box 100, SPA112 (Fax and W-48, a 1948 Siemens phone)


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  # 2023394 27-May-2018 14:55
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Am considering going for the GWN7000/7610 combo to hopefully get decent wifi in the far corners of the two story house.

 

Am just wondering -

 

a) what is the point of this PoE injector thingy if the 7610 has a separate power input, why would I not just use a power brick ?

 

b) if I wanted to could the 7610 be wall mounted ? Does it affect coverage considering the vertical orientation of the antennas and would I notice ?





rb99




Mr Snotty
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  # 2023395 27-May-2018 14:59
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rb99:

 

Am considering going for the GWN7000/7610 combo to hopefully get decent wifi in the far corners of the two story house.

 

Am just wondering -

 

a) what is the point of this PoE injector thingy if the 7610 has a separate power input, why would I not just use a power brick ?

 

You need this as the access point is powered over PoE and doesn't come with a power brick in the box, it just comes with the AP. The PoE injector is required to power it. I also see it silly this is not bundled but also see why as lots of places using them will have PoE switches.

 

b) if I wanted to could the 7610 be wall mounted ? Does it affect coverage considering the vertical orientation of the antennas and would I notice ?

 

You likely wouldn't notice however it is better ceiling mounted if you can.

 

 

 

 





1369 posts

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  # 2023399 27-May-2018 15:13
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Thanks for the info. Will have to see if I can accidentally / violently knock our existing router off its filing cabinet so I can explain to the Financial Controller...





rb99


800 posts

Ultimate Geek


  # 2023436 27-May-2018 17:08
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rb99:

 

... so I can explain to the Financial Controller...

 

 

Which is, by the way, not included in the box as well. You can use the Ubiquiti POE-48-24W-G for supply without any concerns.





- ISP1: T-OneBox FTTH modem, 1/.5G, full DS, VLAN7, VoIP + ipTV streaming flat

 

- ISP2: 4G/LTE USB modem + TL-MR3020, 100/40M data plan (wireless fallback)

 

- NET: ZBOX nano router, 2 C2960X-48TS-L, 2 GWN7630, GWN7610, EL1600usb

 

- SVR: E3C236 32G/20TB, 2 H2 16G/500GB, HC2 4TB, 2 C2 1TB | 2 HC2 14/1TB

 

- IoT+3D: LoRaWAN, 5G, CCU3 (openHAB/MQTT), 2 Ender-3, UM2E+, UM3, CNC

 

- USR: NUC8i7HVK, EliteBook 840, Aspire E5, N2, Galaxy Tab, mobiles, 2 4K TVs

 

- ipPBX: GRP2613, GO-Box 100, SPA112 (Fax and W-48, a 1948 Siemens phone)


1369 posts

Uber Geek

Subscriber

  # 2023507 27-May-2018 18:05
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Tinkerisk:

 

rb99:

 

... so I can explain to the Financial Controller...

 

 

Which is, by the way, not included in the box as well. You can use the Ubiquiti POE-48-24W-G for supply without any concerns.

 

 

Unfortunately the Financial Controller didn't come in a box. Probably a good job otherwise I'd sometimes be tempted to send her back, though she'd probably be tempted to put me in the box first smile





rb99


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