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235 posts

Master Geek


Topic # 66206 14-Aug-2010 13:49
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Hey guys, 

Slowly getting all the parts ready to wire up the house. 

For the wallports specifically I need to confirm what bits I need to get.

Looking at CablesDirect for simplicities sake (http://www.cablesdirect.co.nz/catalog/entry?page_number=2&entry=93)

Faceplates - (Dual Port RJ-45 Keystone Face Plate etc)
Keystones - (Cat5e Keystone RJ-45 Jack for 110 Face Plate)

The way I see it, I have the faceplates, and have the keystones plugged into them, the UTP cable punched into the back of the keystones.

Am I missing anything?
 




this is a slap in the face!

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  Reply # 367597 14-Aug-2010 16:35
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Hi, no not missign anything, however if you house is fitted with PDL or Clipsal plates (very very likely) then those ones on Cablesdirect will look out of place.

You can get PDL keystone clips for about $1.50ea, if you need clipsal then you are best to get clipsal style (aka amdex) RJ45 mechs or you can get keystone to clipsal clips also.

Cyril



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Master Geek


  Reply # 368277 16-Aug-2010 17:52
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Thanks Cyril, have PDL 600 throughout the house so will have a look for the PDL range.




this is a slap in the face!

 
 
 
 


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  Reply # 368282 16-Aug-2010 17:57
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Just out of interest, what is the best way to cable when doing a whole house/office?

Do you take the roll from the start (patch panel) to the wall port for each run or do you guess the length, cut and throw out anything extra? If you doing 24 ports that could be a really long job!





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  Reply # 368290 16-Aug-2010 18:07
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Normally you have several boxs, so you can pull several at a time if going down a similar path, otherwise both options you mention can be used all depends.

Cyril

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  Reply # 368295 16-Aug-2010 18:29
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I found the easiest thing to do was to run one length from the end point back to where you where going to patch it and then add on a couple of meters for margin of error. I would then cut it and then use that as a guide to measure out the other lengths for that area.

I would then tape them together every couple of meters (I had either 2 ports or 4 ports per wall socket) and then run the bundle and atttach them from the endpoint back to the patch area.

http://myhomereno.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/p1010022-400.jpg

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  Reply # 368910 17-Aug-2010 21:00
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I did as above but also did some measure/estimating and would cut mutiple lengths and then tape them together. I found that easier when pulling up through walls and being stuck in confined spaces.
You could try http://www.electricaldirectltd.co.nz/ for your faceplates/jacks etc if you don't have access to an account at some of those trade store. Nice and easy.

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  Reply # 370356 20-Aug-2010 15:34
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cyril7: Hi, no not missign anything, however if you house is fitted with PDL or Clipsal plates (very very likely) then those ones on Cablesdirect will look out of place.

You can get PDL keystone clips for about $1.50ea, if you need clipsal then you are best to get clipsal style (aka amdex) RJ45 mechs or you can get keystone to clipsal clips also.

Cyril


Have a look at the Amdex Style plates/jacks on cablesdirect, see whether they will match other wallplates in the house. Do you have the flushmount boxes already?

You could run a wire or string to each location, then tape it to the cable so you can pull through as many cables as you need easily. Might need to mark the length if not sure, but remember the cable won't necessarily run in a straight line.




Qualified in business, certified in fibre, stuck in copper, have to keep going  ^_^

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  Reply # 370358 20-Aug-2010 15:39
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Hmm so are the internal mounting boxes absolutely essential or can you screw the plates directly into gib? How do the internal mounting boxes attach to the gib anyway?





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Master Geek
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  Reply # 370368 20-Aug-2010 15:58
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Do up an order at http://www.electricaldirectltd.co.nz/ - they are very good price wise and service. Just use a PDL mounting flush box (same as they use for light switches and power points. After my sparky had been around (pre gib) and put all his mounting boxes on for the power points, I went around and put all my data ones on the other side of the stud to his power points, where I though I would need data. Run all your cable and leave 30cms or so hangin out, once the builder has put up the Gib, put the face plate and data plug on.

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  Reply # 370375 20-Aug-2010 16:06
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Zeon: Hmm so are the internal mounting boxes absolutely essential or can you screw the plates directly into gib? How do the internal mounting boxes attach to the gib anyway?
At a push you could just use those gib screw in anchors if you absolutely needed some without boxes.  Maybe behind a TV etc where it's not going to get much movement.  Definitely box if you can though.

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  Reply # 370388 20-Aug-2010 16:56
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Zeon: Hmm so are the internal mounting boxes absolutely essential or can you screw the plates directly into gib? How do the internal mounting boxes attach to the gib anyway?


The mounting boxes are used to make sure nothing moves, and the plates screw onto the boxes,

In a standard domestic house the boxes are usually afixed to a Nog, Dwang or Stud,  (bit of 2*4- which is not even 2*4 these days)

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  Reply # 370396 20-Aug-2010 17:29
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Hmm, yea that's what I thought. So in the grand scheme of things:

  1. The builder puts in the frame

  2. Electrician installs wall outlets to stud, drills through studs and brings cable back to wiring cabinet

  3. GIBers come and put boards on & then plasters

  4. Painters

  5. Put on faceplates


?





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  Reply # 370406 20-Aug-2010 17:48
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Yep thats the process and correct order of events.

Cyril

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  Reply # 370488 20-Aug-2010 20:41
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Zeon: Hmm so are the internal mounting boxes absolutely essential or can you screw the plates directly into gib? How do the internal mounting boxes attach to the gib anyway?


It looks like you're building a new house there, so you should be able to pretty much put them wherever you like. Cool. There was a couple of places where I've hard to screw in the faceplates directly to the stud and also those brackets and seems to be holding ok.

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  Reply # 370566 21-Aug-2010 08:19
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Zeon, please do not proceed without flush boxs, they only cost a couple of $, the protect the cable from other things in the wall, they remind the builders where to cut the gib, and most importantly of all they give the faceplate something to hold onto. Accidently trip on a line cord and a plate thats simply screwed into the gib will pull out and never go back properly and probably stuff the gib in the process.

Personally I would say the flushbox is mandatory not optional, if you are going to do a job at least make some effort to make it look like it was not done by a amateur.

Cyril

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