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216 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 12


  Reply # 1740017 15-Mar-2017 20:34
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cipher:

 

Hi Hamish,

 

I have some difficulties implementing the v6 protocol in my app (http://enlightme.info).

 

Whenever I am trying to send a command I get a 01 at the end of the command response instead of 00 and the lamp does not turn off.

 

I tried the Admin Tool and there it is always 00 at the end and the lamp turns off.

 

 

 

This is the sequence from my program:

 

 

 

Sending UDP (Session Start): 20 00 00 00 16 02 62 3A D5 ED A3 01 AE 08 2D 46 61 41 A7 F6 DC AF D3 E6 00 00 1E

 

Response: 28 00 00 00 11 00 02 F0 FE 6B 23 C1 EA 00 00 00 00 00 01 80 00 00

 

Send Cmd: 80 00 00 00 11 80 00 00 18 00 31 00 00 07 03 02 00 00 00 01 00 3E

 

Response: 88 00 00 00 03 00 18 01

 

 

 

What does the 01 at the end of the response mean?

 



 

your Send Cmd looks great! correct sessions id 80 00!   but 07 03 02  what command is that?  according to www.limitlessled.com/dev  the command is  03 04 00 = Wifi Bridge Lamp OFF

try the cmd 03 04 00 first, then come back to me and I will check your checksum.

-Hamish
LimitlessLED


216 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 12


  Reply # 1740058 15-Mar-2017 21:08
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dpackham:

 

I am having a bit of difficulty pairing my dual white bulbs with my iBox2 controller.  I have the wifi box connected to my home wifi and can see it on my MiLight 3.0 app but when I try to link my bulbs they never blink in response to the link button getting pushed within 3 seconds of turn on

 

Thoughts?

 



yes there are two instructions that work in 100% of these cases, it is not a very common situation that people get stuck in, but I get the occasional support call on it.

1st is that people don't realise the MiLight 3.0 app has a little arrows icon in the top right that lets you switch over to the dual white remote.  and then use the link/unlink icon top right little chains icon to unlink (clear the bulb). or using the dual white remote in the app you can press the ON button 5 times quickly within 3 seconds of turning the power switch on.

 

2nd  reason a slightly more technical one, is that one of the 4 slots for the 2byte remoteid's stored in eeprom on the bulb is stuck and just needs to be cleared by way of another dual white remote (i.e. press the ON button 5 times(or press and hold) quickly within 3 seconds of turning the power switch on).

Cheers,
Hamish.
-LimitlessLED.


 
 
 
 


216 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 12


  Reply # 1740059 15-Mar-2017 21:16
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tchart:

 

@LimitlessLED or @richms is the LED in the new V6 bridge a separate controllable LED? Any chance these could be separated from the bridge?

 



yes the lamp on the "wifi bridge v6 with lamp" is a controllable one, it has its own RGBW commands.  Yes it is physically attached to the bridge and can not be detached as it is on the same CIRCUIT board internally literally, haha. A more technical explanation is that and must be controlled via the APP or API only, there is no inwards facing RF aerial to receive instructions from another bridge nor another remote to control it. the 2.4Ghz RF aerial on the wifi bridge is for outwards commands only to other bulbs, not other v6 bridge lamps.

Hamish
-LimitlessLED.


640 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 10


  Reply # 1747275 24-Mar-2017 19:32
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Can the new bulbs be queried for their status ( on or off , brightness, color ) ?


482 posts

Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 1747553 25-Mar-2017 13:17
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Just bought a 4.7 and 7 inch RGB/WW/CW downlight to see if I want to replace the incandescent downlights - a couple of questions 

 

1) Anyone come across any good adapters for hole size? The 4.7" are are ~12cm but my cutouts in the roof are actually 12cm so they fit but you can just see around the edges. Could of course make the hole bigger and go with the 7 inch but they are a massive increase in size.

 

 

 

2) Whats the expected way to turn these on /off for everyone? Using the app (and presumably the remote) they switch on/off very almost instantly - however when using the wall switch the delay just seems a little unsettling (about 1.2seconds), long enough to think they aren't going to turn on. Really would like to keep the physical on/off light switch but then be able to control the color and brightness with app/remote.





pɐǝɥ sıɥ uo ƃuıpuɐʇs

640 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 10


  Reply # 1747589 25-Mar-2017 14:46
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Filterer:

 

 

 

2) Whats the expected way to turn these on /off for everyone? Using the app (and presumably the remote) they switch on/off very almost instantly - however when using the wall switch the delay just seems a little unsettling (about 1.2seconds), long enough to think they aren't going to turn on. Really would like to keep the physical on/off light switch but then be able to control the color and brightness with app/remote.

 

 

 

 

Eh?  Are you saying that when you cease power to the bulbs, they turn off slower then by the app?


4131 posts

Uber Geek
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  Reply # 1747590 25-Mar-2017 14:52
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I only use the physical light switch for the single lights I use, eg toilet. In the open plan kitchen/dining/living I use the physical remote that is wall mounted at the doorway into this area. 

 

Of course when you use the original light switch to turn it on/off it is slower to turn on and slower to turn off that is the nature of the beast. I think you will find most people leave their lights on all of the time and only use their smartphone remote apps  or the remotes. TBH the delay from the wall switch does not bother me. There is no reason why you cannot use any combination of those to suit your needs. If you find it unsettling that will quickly go the more you use them.


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  Reply # 1747591 25-Mar-2017 14:55
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There is a short fadeout and quick shift to red if in an RGB mode on the coloured ones - not a huge amount. The turn on delay in the RGBW ones is not unacceptable at all IMO, less than a fluro or similar. All pretty constant across the lamps of the same type so they dont do an annoying popcorning when turning on like some others.

 

Problem is any remote transmission after turnon and suddenly all your lamps are controlled by a totally wrong remote. Ended up with my lounge lights on the flatmates remote a couple of times. Now to solve that I just learn other remotes that I dont use. They seem to have a limit of 4 or 5 remotes that they can accept so just learn others and stick them in a drawer.

 

The wemo lamps come on immediatly with AC being connected, but always at full brightness not at the last setting. Hue, the same. Much prefer a delay and have it come on at something sensible than what the hues did and always come on at full brightness and orange.

 

There are stick on wall controllers that look somewhat like a fixed glass fronted switch. limitless have emailed a day or so back that they have the one for the rgbcct lamps, but aliexpress has the whole range if limitless dont have the one you want and you are ok with waiting.

 

There are also wired in ones on aliexpress, but they are a UK sized wallbox so you would have to adapt somehow and not sure if they would be a problem with certifications etc.





Richard rich.ms

482 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 5


  Reply # 1747613 25-Mar-2017 16:36
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gchiu:

Filterer:


 


2) Whats the expected way to turn these on /off for everyone? Using the app (and presumably the remote) they switch on/off very almost instantly - however when using the wall switch the delay just seems a little unsettling (about 1.2seconds), long enough to think they aren't going to turn on. Really would like to keep the physical on/off light switch but then be able to control the color and brightness with app/remote.



 


Eh?  Are you saying that when you cease power to the bulbs, they turn off slower then by the app?



Yes and yes.

On is about 1.2-1.5 seconds between hitting the power switch and light turning on. Off is slightly quicker but still takes some time (obviously residual current in transformer)




pɐǝɥ sıɥ uo ƃuıpuɐʇs

482 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 5


  Reply # 1747616 25-Mar-2017 16:40
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rscole86:

I only use the physical light switch for the single lights I use, eg toilet. In the open plan kitchen/dining/living I use the physical remote that is wall mounted at the doorway into this area. 


Of course when you use the original light switch to turn it on/off it is slower to turn on and slower to turn off that is the nature of the beast. I think you will find most people leave their lights on all of the time and only use their smartphone remote apps  or the remotes. TBH the delay from the wall switch does not bother me. There is no reason why you cannot use any combination of those to suit your needs. If you find it unsettling that will quickly go the more you use them.



I'm automating the whole house but have a rule that everything has to work like "normal" including power/light switches.

Yes I suspect you are right it will become more normal with more use. Second option is to instead control the lights through openhab with the physical switch just publishing mqtt messages (and the power always being connected)... that does have the downside of not working if the HA system is down and I really wanted everything to still "work" even in that situation.




pɐǝɥ sıɥ uo ƃuıpuɐʇs

482 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 5


  Reply # 1747618 25-Mar-2017 16:44
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richms:

There is a short fadeout and quick shift to red if in an RGB mode on the coloured ones - not a huge amount. The turn on delay in the RGBW ones is not unacceptable at all IMO, less than a fluro or similar. All pretty constant across the lamps of the same type so they dont do an annoying popcorning when turning on like some others.


Problem is any remote transmission after turnon and suddenly all your lamps are controlled by a totally wrong remote. Ended up with my lounge lights on the flatmates remote a couple of times. Now to solve that I just learn other remotes that I dont use. They seem to have a limit of 4 or 5 remotes that they can accept so just learn others and stick them in a drawer.


The wemo lamps come on immediatly with AC being connected, but always at full brightness not at the last setting. Hue, the same. Much prefer a delay and have it come on at something sensible than what the hues did and always come on at full brightness and orange.


There are stick on wall controllers that look somewhat like a fixed glass fronted switch. limitless have emailed a day or so back that they have the one for the rgbcct lamps, but aliexpress has the whole range if limitless dont have the one you want and you are ok with waiting.


There are also wired in ones on aliexpress, but they are a UK sized wallbox so you would have to adapt somehow and not sure if they would be a problem with certifications etc.



Agreed. Remembering state at power on is a BiG plus. I think I saw he glass ones but hey are much larger than a switch control (and I think they look a little gimmicky) will have another look at Ali express.

Other option is to directly publish the correct UDP messages from the sonoff's I am planning to put behind the switch plate.




pɐǝɥ sıɥ uo ƃuıpuɐʇs

640 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 10


  Reply # 1747724 25-Mar-2017 21:44
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What I seem to have read is that one should leave smart lights on all the time, and use your remotes to control the lights.  So if you have physical switches you should cover them up with a remote so that no one touches the physical lights.  And if your lights rely on a network which goes down, you just take the remote off uncovering the physical switch.


182 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 14


  Reply # 1748728 27-Mar-2017 14:47
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macuser:

 

Alright, here is my work around for having HA-BRIDGE work with the Limitless/Milight v6 bridge.

 

 

 

First - get Domoticz Beta build 3.6562 from here https://domoticz.com/downloads/

 

Visit the domoticz configuration page by using your browser and going to http://127.0.0.1/8080

 

Install and add your device by going to settings--> hardware and picking the limitless option

 

(use v6 Controller IP address, and port number 5987 as that is the new RGBWW+CW controller port)

 

Once you've got that showing up, you then need to use the blue set mode option on the new hardware item.

 

Set it to v6 and your bulb type to RGBWW.

 

Then you need to visit setup - devices and click the bulb symbol beside the light group name.  If your lights turn on and off when you click that symbol, Domotics is setup correctly.  Take note of the ID number that your LED has on the devices list.

 

 

I've got this working with RGBWW+CW lights but I can't seem to get it working for Dual White lights. I suspect that the config needs to be different so i set up a second controller in domoticz and set to a mode of white but no good there. I wonder if the port needs to be different for dual white but not sure what this should be.

 

In the controller web console it only lists port 8899 but this doesn't seem to work either.

 

It all works using the milight app although I have to change between the RGBWW+CW and Dual White remote which is annoying.


182 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 14


  Reply # 1753848 3-Apr-2017 15:00
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I managed to get both RGBWW+CW and Dual White running using this method http://codecorner.galanter.net/2017/02/24/full-control-of-your-limitless-ledmilight-v6-bulbs-from-amazon-echo/ with the exception of dimming the dual white bulbs.

 

Looks like you have to use a BrightUp and BrightDown command but not sure how to use this with a single dim option nor how to control the amount it changes as it only seems to have a zone variable available.


20029 posts

Uber Geek
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  Reply # 1753880 3-Apr-2017 15:49
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Anyone come across any controllable T8 fluro replacements in their travels around online? Plan-B is stuffing a sonoff in the base of the fitting and using normal LED replacements, but something with dimming and CCT control would be great.





Richard rich.ms

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