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Will not stab you
229 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 17

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Topic # 228840 25-Jan-2018 09:48
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Hi Folks,

 

I have a couple of home gardens with drip lines, connected to Hunter valves which have Hunter Latching DC solenoids in them.

 

The solenoids were being controlled by a Toro DDCWP (http://www.sprinklertalk.com/manuals/toro/ddcwp_manual.pdf), but the screen is dying so I am looking to replace it.

 

I purchased an OpenSprinker Bee, but it was DOA when it arrived.

 

I found a dead solder joint on the voltage regulator and fixed that, but I can't get it to control my solenoids properly.

 

I have done some more experimenting and connected up the old DDCWP controller, and found that when it 'closed' a valve it did so by telling the solenoid to extend the small rubber plunger at the bottom on the solenoid.. When it opened the value it retracted the plunger.  

 

 

 

I am guessing that this seals and unseals a opening in the valve that allows the water to flow. It works perfectly with the DDCWP.  

 

I found with the Bee the behavior was reversed. When the Bee powered on it retracted all the plungers, allowing water to flow. When I started a zone it would extend the plunger, sealing the valve.   The solenoids have two wires - Black and Red. All the Black wires are commoned and the red wire is connected to signal.  

 

 

 

Any thoughts or advice on what I should be looking at next here? It has been 6 days since Opensprinkler support last responded to my ticket.





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“It is important not to let the perfect become the enemy of the good, even when you can agree on what perfect is. Doubly so when you can't. As unpleasant as it is to be trapped by past mistakes, you can't make any progress by being afraid of your own shadow during design.”

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2805 posts

Uber Geek
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  Reply # 1946941 26-Jan-2018 01:28
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Swap the polarity of the wires going to each solenoid. Unless there is an option to do so in the programming of the Bee unit.





56 posts

Master Geek
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  Reply # 1946949 26-Jan-2018 06:37
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Aredwood: Swap the polarity of the wires going to each solenoid. Unless there is an option to do so in the programming of the Bee unit.


There isn’t an option for reversing polarity in the programming, but as Aredwood says,, swapping the wires around connecting the solenoid should do the trick.

There are some valves around that need work arounds to make them work, but if the valve is just working in reverse they shouldn’t be necessary.

I’ve found Ray to be really responsive to tickets in the past.

231 posts

Master Geek
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  Reply # 1946952 26-Jan-2018 07:02
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I use run commercial valves, most use a 24ac coil, the same as the smaller valves,

 

Correct polarity is not required, as a coil is simply on or off. 

 

It sounds like a fault of the controller, 


251 posts

Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 1946981 26-Jan-2018 08:46
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Did you get your Bee shipped out the US?


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