....also given how small the contacts are on the Shelly relays it must be hard to fit and secure the 2.5mm/4mm wire into it...my cylinder is wired in 4mm....that's a non-starter right there....anything more than 1.5mm is already hard.
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....also given how small the contacts are on the Shelly relays it must be hard to fit and secure the 2.5mm/4mm wire into it...my cylinder is wired in 4mm....that's a non-starter right there....anything more than 1.5mm is already hard.
I have a dial now..
Only reason I have been wanting HWC timer like shelly, is for linking to Flick power..
So I can have it turn on weeknights 1am-6am, and all weekends.
Except when power price is
- over a certain rate, which I am hoping to get a REST API for from my power company.
- Or when very low
So I was thinking of having a RaspberryPI, do the API calls to check power price.. and make any Shelly calls when needed
I'm with Flick but my price is fixed, and with the spot market being rubbish there's no hope of cheap power in the foreseeable future so I can't see myself on a floating price anytime soon. That's why my only concern is currently the 5c extra per kWh that gets changed from 7-11am and 5-9pm.....and that is easy to avoid with a simple timer (the only hassle being daylight savings which means the timer will need a tweak). And...FYI....Flick have a Home Assistant integration (https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/flick_electric/) so you get to see your power price...so my price is displayed and I use that to show the current 'cost per hour' of the power consumption....you can also read a meter reading type of integration that you can use to tally your power consumption per day/week/month....it's pretty neat.
Just a note though (for others) Flick are not currently taking on new customers so if you're not with them already that's a dead end for now. That's not going to change either while prices are so high....our electricity market is pretty much broken and has been for years....and no sign of meaningful change...hence all the coal burning!
Bewildered:
I just bought my Shellies from shelly.cloud (I also have their H&T units which work well). I got the momentary switches from Electrical Direct (https://www.electricaldirectltd.co.nz/product/2074-PDL-Momentary-Push-Button-Module-10Amp-24VDC-250VAC-White) - if you get a PDL module ejector (PDL600ME) you can easily pop out an existing module and snap in the new momentary switch - that way you can recycle your gang/face plates. The momentary switch works fine without the switch's own LED wired in....
You will need to put the shelly switch mode into 'momentary' (obviously) - I'm using them with Shelly Dimmer 2 units with LED ceiling lights and they work well. The only issue I have is that the ripple control signals make my lights flicker when dimmed - this was the case already *before* the Shellies were installed. I don't want to pay $200+ per room to install filters so we just live with it...
Tip 1: You can change the dimming speed in the shelly via the web interface to speed up / slow down the dimming rate. In some places you might want it slow for fine control (e.g. lounge), in others you want it fast (e.g. kitchen)
Tip 2: After running the calibration process on the Shelly you can set a night mode brightness so the lights come up only to a certain level (e.g. 10%) if turned on during the night time window (e.g. 22:00 to 06:00)
I also use some shelly 2.5s to control my bathroom extractor fan (you can set an off timer so fan runs for X minutes after being turned off) and my towel rail so it runs to a schedule that makes sense as opposed to random 4 hour on / 8 hour off periods. So far I've been very impressed with them....long may that continue because I have a lot of them now.
:-)
Getting the sparky to install a Dimmer 2 and DL681MT10PB tomorrow.
They've never done a shelly before so I just wanted to check. This is a single switch in a bedroom. Should they wire up the dimmer 2 in the shelly documentation single switch configuration so that the push button is "push on" "push off" "hold to dim" ?
He just wires the switch to SW1. You configure all that yourself in the app.
Psilan: Are there proper push button iconic modules that aren't controllink?
The momentary ones seem weird to have one for up one for down in brightness when they are still rockers. They also are quite firm to press.
No, there are no affordable push button momentary switches for the Iconic range, only the ones with control link which are very expensive (and I don't know how they work so not sure if they'd be compatible)
I have decided to go with the momentary rocker switches for our house, and as you say, the spring action is a bit strong, but you do get used to it. And I think they look better than anything else in the price range. And as a bonus, they come with the white LEDs.
I have just installed one switch per dimmer, so press for on/off, and hold for dim. And it seems to work fine. We only have a few lights that are dimmable at this stage, and we normally use Alexa to control them anyway.
harmonist:
I thought the dimmer 2 was certified as well?
Does anyone know what LED drivers would suit the dimmer? I've got a new build house with all new LEDs etc, I've put some shelly 1s in which work great but I would love to be able to use some dimmers, I'm pretty sure I need to replace the drivers, we wired a dimmer up and the LEDs started intermittently flashing which I think is a driver issue?
Late reply, but incase anyone else is wanting a suggestion, I used these and they work really well and seem good quality.
Make sure you get the right type for the lights you have. I.e these are suitable for 24V LED strip lights, but you might need constant current ones for downlights.
https://wellforces.co.nz/ltech-lm-75-24-g2t2-75w-24vdc-cv-triac-driver/ - about $90 each
https://wellforces.co.nz/ltech-td-150-24-e1m1-150w-24vdc-cv-triac-driver/ - about $130 each
cods4:
No, there are no affordable push button momentary switches for the Iconic range, only the ones with control link which are very expensive (and I don't know how they work so not sure if they'd be compatible)
I have decided to go with the momentary rocker switches for our house, and as you say, the spring action is a bit strong, but you do get used to it. And I think they look better than anything else in the price range. And as a bonus, they come with the white LEDs.
Have you got a link to these Iconic momentary rocker switches you used? How much did they cost if you don't mind sharing?
SumnerBoy:
cods4:
No, there are no affordable push button momentary switches for the Iconic range, only the ones with control link which are very expensive (and I don't know how they work so not sure if they'd be compatible)
I have decided to go with the momentary rocker switches for our house, and as you say, the spring action is a bit strong, but you do get used to it. And I think they look better than anything else in the price range. And as a bonus, they come with the white LEDs.
Have you got a link to these Iconic momentary rocker switches you used? How much did they cost if you don't mind sharing?
It was these ones I got https://www.showtechnix.co.nz/store/pdl-iconic-series-iconic-switch-10ax-momentary-led-pdl381m10pml-vw/
You obviously need a grid plate and cover like these ones.
https://www.showtechnix.co.nz/store/pdl-iconic-series-iconic-cover-plate-single-anthracite-pdl381c-an/
https://www.showtechnix.co.nz/store/pdl-iconic-series-iconic-single-v-h-grid-plate-only-pdl381g/
So all up it is about $17.50 for a single switch with LED.
cods4:
It was these ones I got https://www.showtechnix.co.nz/store/pdl-iconic-series-iconic-switch-10ax-momentary-led-pdl381m10pml-vw/
Brilliant - thanks.
Update on the PDL 600 momentary and Shelly Dimmer 2.
So far so good. Initially had some issues with the unit losing connection, but some tightening of contacts by Sparky seemed to resolve.
The app has been good. Next step is going to be getting home bridge up and running to activate these on HomeKit
...and then once you like it you can roll out more and more of the units.... :-)
I do my own wiring so that means I don't have to pay an electrician....that makes things a *lot* cheaper....but I wouldn't recommend it unless you know what you are doing. While it is legal to do your own wiring it's certainly not worth dying for....or setting your house on fire for that matter.
Bewildered:...and then once you like it you can roll out more and more of the units.... :-)
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