davidcole: Does android (over here in NZ) have free turn based nav yet?  Coming from a symbian that does (and is offline as well), that's one factor I'm interested in.

There is hacked version that does work - sort of - but the voice instructions are sporadic and often late.  

Its called Rmaps and as Linuxlover says it usually tells you to turn after you have already done so:)  Seems to work fine though for non voice and you can load it up with google maps including sat view using something like Mobile Atlas Creator.