Re-Hang Gutters

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E3xtc

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#171286 13-Apr-2015 07:23

Hey all,

I am looking to get someone to rehang our gutters with a better (some) fall so that they actually drain completely. What sort of person should I be on the hunt for? Plumber? Builder? General Handyman?
Am in the Auckland region if anyone has any recommendations.

Cheers

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#1281713 13-Apr-2015 07:35

I had a plumber do it, it wasn't particularly cheap, but I had some changes made to the drainage too. You don't actually need fall, if things are level you'll get some sitting water but it will drain once it goes over a small height. Of course fall is better if you can manage it.

Niel

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#1281717 13-Apr-2015 07:55

10 degrees fall is plenty. I would not let it tis, turns green and gets mozzies and other interesting things.

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Handsomedan

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#1281718 13-Apr-2015 07:58

I have a friend who is a roofer and he reckons a gutter specialist, a roofer or a plumber would be able to do the job.
Again - a small amount of fall is enough to get the water moving.

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E3xtc

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#1281723 13-Apr-2015 08:17

thanks guys - was wondering if just a home handyman might have been up for it; but looks as though I might need to get someone a bit more specialised to take care of it :)

Sidestep

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#1281724 13-Apr-2015 08:20

Niel: 10 degrees fall is plenty. I would not let it tis, turns green and gets mozzies and other interesting things.

10 degrees is pretty steep!

Jase2985

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#1281730 13-Apr-2015 08:26

Niel: 10 degrees fall is plenty.

thats an awful lot, thats about a 1 in 6 fall or 50cm over a 3m legnth

i believe the recommended is between 1 in 500 and 1 in 300 fall

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#1281732 13-Apr-2015 08:27

also here is a good guide going it yourself

http://www.stratco.co.nz/pdf/installation_guides/gutters/gutters_and_downpipes.pdf

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E3xtc

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#1281749 13-Apr-2015 08:45

I wouldn't mind give it a nudge in all honesty, but both time and tools are all lacking on this project; so a tradie will have to be called :)

Niel

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#1282767 14-Apr-2015 11:15

Jase2985:
Niel: 10 degrees fall is plenty.

thats an awful lot, thats about a 1 in 6 fall or 50cm over a 3m legnth

i believe the recommended is between 1 in 500 and 1 in 300 fall

Ah, yea. That's 10 deg for a car port, 1 deg for a gutter.

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#1282837 14-Apr-2015 12:15

1 in 300 is still no where near 1 degree, its under 1/5 of that, at about .19deg so not a lot at all, but enough for any water to flow towards a downpipe

1 degree is 1 in 57, on a decent sized house you would not be able to obtain that as the gutter wouldn't be able to be attached to the house.

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#1283082 14-Apr-2015 17:23

We recently re-hung gutters on two single storey buildings.

A combination of strong winds & rusted galv hangers had caused sagging & standing water. Stagnant water going into our tanks isn't good, even though first flush diverters dispose of most of it.

Got three quotes - from a roofer, a plumber and a local builder. The quotes were surprisingly high.
Two including rigging & scaffolding, one, cherry picker hire. The cost of rehanging our existing gutters, vs. replacing with new wasn't that far apart.

I was told Health & Safety inspectors are enforcing Worksafe NZ's Preventing Falls from Height initiative - meaning the days of doing gutter work from ladders is gone.
Basically any work at height, esp over 3m - a single storey building on a slight slope, or on piled foundations- requires a safe working platform to prevent falls.

We're OK going on the roofs - we pressure wash and clean out the gutters with compressed air biannually - to keep our drinking water clean.
So we re-mounted the gutters on new hangers. From ladders.
Shorter runs are 1:300 longer at 1:400. Tested with the garden hose, no standing water.

I can see the risk of working at height, at speed, every day, but taking plenty of time and securely bracing ourselves and the ladders was fine.
We were also able to spot and treat corrosion that was starting on the coloursteel roofing under the gutter overhangs.
So we know next time this happens -10 years maybe - it'll likely be time for both a new roof and gutters.

mattwnz

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#1283089 14-Apr-2015 17:29

You do need a very shallow fall on all gutters. It is even more important with coloursteel ones, as they will rust if water pools in them. Pooling water will also breed mosquitos. If the gutters are marley type, then it can be as a DIY job. Coloursteel you will likely need a roofer or plumber (plumbers probably charge more). The problem with steel gutters is that they join them with silicon, which breaks down, so many steel gutters I see leak.

Sidestep

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#1283095 14-Apr-2015 17:42

These are coloursteel, but were formed on site (15 years ago) from single rolled lengths, reducing the number of joints.

Where they've shown corrosion is in the cut, folded and riveted ends, and where the downpipes are attached.

They attempted to mitigate this during installation by cold-galving the cut edges and overlaps, but we've found we have to blow them clean with compressed air and re treat these areas every couple of years.

We're too close to the ocean to be covered by roof or gutter warranties, but 15 years on we're seeing another 10-15 years in them with maintenance.
Pretty good considering they're exposed to direct salt water several times a year...

1eStar

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#1283253 14-Apr-2015 21:09

If the outside isn't looking too shabby you can put a bituminous coating inside to lengthen their life.

If you are re-hanging then the fall is best if it's maximised over the length. i.e. the guttering up as high as possible against the roofing at high point, then ping a chalk line to where the downpipe dropper sits at the base of the barge board and screw the mounting brackets at an even grade. Some fancy new houses will have the gutters mounted level as it looks good. Remember those are built by builders that sell houses, not a house to be lived in that needs to drain rain.

mattwnz

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#1283283 14-Apr-2015 21:33

1eStar: If the outside isn't looking too shabby you can put a bituminous coating inside to lengthen their life.

If you are re-hanging then the fall is best if it's maximised over the length. i.e. the guttering up as high as possible against the roofing at high point, then ping a chalk line to where the downpipe dropper sits at the base of the barge board and screw the mounting brackets at an even grade. Some fancy new houses will have the gutters mounted level as it looks good. Remember those are built by builders that sell houses, not a house to be lived in that needs to drain rain.

You don't want it too close to the roof and building paper as you can get splash back. These days on new houses there is usually an underfaslhing and compressible foan to stop this occuring, but not on older ones.

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