fk I never thought of the good ol H&S coming into play...argh....okay good to know....looks like it might just be a matter of getting some tools and time then (as Jas mentioned above)
You don't want it too close to the roof and building paper as you can get splash back. These days on new houses there is usually an underfaslhing and compressible foan to stop this occuring, but not on older ones.
Correct.
Consider also spacing your gutter off the fascia by 5mm using rubber spacers or washers to fix through. This will minimise the issue of blocked gutters leaking water into your roof space. Ideally you want the front of the gutter lower than the back but again that doesn't look as good. Trim your building paper back if it overhangs too long so it never sits in water, otherwise it will drag water into the roof space via a capillary process.
E3xtc: fk I never thought of the good ol H&S coming into play...argh....okay good to know....looks like it might just be a matter of getting some tools and time then (as Jas mentioned above)
Yet the same safety desk jockeys don't care about large companies. Putting their employees in 80s design forward control vans. No airbags, no crumple zones, no ABS brakes, no stability control. An example of profit before people. As they think that a 1 star crash safety rating is still good on a 2015 van.
Sidestep: We recently re-hung gutters on two single storey buildings.
A combination of strong winds & rusted galv hangers had caused sagging & standing water. Stagnant water going into our tanks isn't good, even though first flush diverters dispose of most of it.
Got three quotes - from a roofer, a plumber and a local builder. The quotes were surprisingly high. Two including rigging & scaffolding, one, cherry picker hire. The cost of rehanging our existing gutters, vs. replacing with new wasn't that far apart.
I was told Health & Safety inspectors are enforcing Worksafe NZ's Preventing Falls from Height initiative - meaning the days of doing gutter work from ladders is gone. Basically any work at height, esp over 3m - a single storey building on a slight slope, or on piled foundations- requires a safe working platform to prevent falls.
We're OK going on the roofs - we pressure wash and clean out the gutters with compressed air biannually - to keep our drinking water clean. So we re-mounted the gutters on new hangers. From ladders. Shorter runs are 1:300 longer at 1:400. Tested with the garden hose, no standing water.
I can see the risk of working at height, at speed, every day, but taking plenty of time and securely bracing ourselves and the ladders was fine. We were also able to spot and treat corrosion that was starting on the coloursteel roofing under the gutter overhangs. So we know next time this happens -10 years maybe - it'll likely be time for both a new roof and gutters.
Looking at replacing my gutters. A small portable scaffold can be hired for $60 a day, that should be long enough for a pro. What prices were they quoting?
Looking at replacing my gutters. A small portable scaffold can be hired for $60 a day, that should be long enough for a pro. What prices were they quoting?
Would have to re-check quotes.. from memory $1500 -1800 for scaffolding, against $800 for 2 day cherry picker hire.
That's scaffold under each run - remove, replace galv hangers, rehang, move scaffolding to new run. On 60 or 70m total of 125mm box profile long run colorsteel. 2 day job with their travel time (we're rural).
All the hangers hadn't failed, mainly some on the seaward/windward side of the buildings. False economy to only replace those. Against manpower, scaffolding costs etc, hangers are cheap.
But then, a couple thousand more and we could have folded & installed all new gutters.
In the end decided to just replace the failed & visually rusted hangers ourselves, & look at replacing both roof & gutters in the future.. Turned out to be correct choice as close inspection showed rusting roof sheet edges, under overlaps & overhangs. MIGHT get 10 more years (damn!)
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