Down here in alex we have lime build up in the cylinders, get a wet vac from you hireoutfit and fit a smaller hose duck tape will help , remove the element and suck the sludge out of the bottom, rinse and repeat till your happy,
Down here in alex we have lime build up in the cylinders, get a wet vac from you hireoutfit and fit a smaller hose duck tape will help , remove the element and suck the sludge out of the bottom, rinse and repeat till your happy,
That sounds a practical solution - but how feasible is that with a gas cylinder? Is there any component or pipework that can easily be removed to provide adequate access to insert a flexible tube to suck the crud out? If there's such an access point I imagine this would be worth a go...
We've had issues with brown water for a while, and it's been confirmed it's not the supply or the pipework itself, but is limited to the hot water - which apparently means it's crud build-up in the cylinder.
In an attempt not to have to replace the cylinder, we'd prefer to be able to somehow reduce the crud to an acceptable level - the plumber suggested purging the cylinder, which I'm yet to do, but the issue will probably still remain given the outlet for doing this is about 15-20cm above the bottom of the cylinder, so much of the sediment will remain below the outlet level and therefore will be untouched.
Can anyone advise how we could go about significantly reducing the level of sediment? I know there are plumbers on here eg @Aredwood?), and I was hoping they and other members may have some ideas.
I was thinking of purging it as suggested, then filling it just a bit to disturb the sediment before purging it again, and then repeating a few times.
Thanks for any ideas!
Rather than re-fill and empty the whole tank, I'd leave the drain open and turn on the incoming water. If incoming feeds somewhere near the bottom this will stir up the crap and drain it quicker than a complete rinse and repeat.
It could also be a bad anode if it's an old tank and starting to rust the heating element etc...
If they've out-ruled piping I guess there's no old galvanised pipes to the hot water cylinder.
I've only flushed hot cylinders a few times but the dark crap that comes out in the last 10-20 litres (on a bottom drain plug) after a few years can be pretty gross.
Only just found this thread. Did you get this sorted? And what make / model is your cylinder @jonathan18 ?
(must update my email address that I use with geekzone. As im using an old ISP address that I only check from one computer using Pegasus mail).
@Aredwood, no not yet. I had planned on having a go this weekend, so I'll hold off a bit to see if you can offer any further advice, thanks!
Details I can see are as follows;let me know if there is any other information you need. Rheem Rheemglas Model number GA/150
Cheers for any ideas.
Bump! @Arewood - just wondering if you had any specific advice you'd be able to offer re clearing gunk out of our HWC? I've thus far held off doing something, just in case you had other suggestions!
If your cylinder is the one I think it is. It will be over 30 years old. Consider replacing it due to its age. It should have the date it was made on a label near the top. Consider an infinity or outdoor gas cylinder as they are more efficient than indoor gas cylinders. If you want to try cleaning it out. Turn the thermostat to the lowest setting. Leave it there for a day or so until the water goes cold. Turn off the water to your house. Turn on a hot water tap. Then turn temp to the max and allow it to reheat. It will make alot of banging or thumping noises. This will stir up the muck. When it has reheated. Turn off gas to cylinder and drain it.
Note that this may cause the cylinder to leak due to its age. So not my fault if it leaks. You have been warned. Although I also know of some over 40 year old rheem gas cylinders
Could you not just drain the last of the tank with a syphon?
Just poke a plastic tube in through whichever access hole you can get to, suck until the tube is full and put the end of the tube into a bucket. It will extract all of the water from the tank.
Should be a lot easier than removing the tank.
If the tank is lower than the floor so a syphon will not work then get a manual pump like boaties have to dry out the bilges.
I have one of those, it cost me about $12.00 off trademe.
If you can't be bothered pumping by hand, buy an electric pump kit off aliX. They cost about $US27.
Even if you don't have a boat, you can use the pump afterwards for changing the oil in your car and save on mechanics fees so the pump is free.
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