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A cover won't help that much. Even if you kept your table saw in the middle of the lounge room it would still rust if it's not protected, either from moister in the air or (more likely) from the oils in your skin when you touch it. You really need a anti-corrosion. Give your table saw a good sand down then coat all exposed surfaces with Inox MX3. It lasts for ages, unlike WD40 which just evaporates. I bought a 5L (lifetime supply) from Supercheap Auto for ~$80.
Cast iron can be painted. Have look at the wattyl rust-kill range
Mike
I've got some of this to try: CRC Dry Glide. I was sold by the low friction/won't affect what you're cutting sales promise. Need to clear of the rust first though. Will report back how it works.
I opened the windows (2 on the west and one on the east) about 1cm to 2cm each (good or some air flow).
In the garage --- No rust on the tools, no rust on the saw blades, no mold on the Christmas decorations in boxes in cupboards, no mold on the Christmas tree in the cupboards. Even when the vehicles (2) come in wet....they dry that day or definitely the next. We're pretty lucky (I guess)...good breeze almost everyday.
If the tools had or do start to rust (but they haven't in 6 years) ...I was just going to throw some silica packs in.
MikeAqua:
Cast iron can be painted. Have look at the wattyl rust-kill range
Usually on something like a saw bench you could only paint the unmachined surfaces. Everything else either slides or has the work slide on it. If you plan to use high gloss finishes on the work most authorities stress avoiding any coatings with silicone in them.
another option is some of the polymer car polish/protector . The stuff that you wipe on,wait till it goes white, wipe off
It leaves a clear coating . Works great on bronze, keeps it shiney for a long time .
Saw blades, spray something on it after use
Some brands of tools just rust easier than other .
My cheapies are often rust magnets , the expensive(German/US) spanners just minor pitting after 25+ years
I've been using CRC marine (I bough a 4L container many many years back). Is Inox better ?
1101:
another option is some of the polymer car polish/protector . The stuff that you wipe on,wait till it goes white, wipe off
It leaves a clear coating . Works great on bronze, keeps it shiney for a long time .
Saw blades, spray something on it after use
Some brands of tools just rust easier than other .
My cheapies are often rust magnets , the expensive(German/US) spanners just minor pitting after 25+ years
I've been using CRC marine (I bough a 4L container many many years back). Is Inox better ?
At least some car polishes have silicone in them. As @bung said, the orthodox advice is that this can do Bad Things to wood that comes into contact with it - particularly if you want to paint, varnish or stain your work piece when you're done. That said, I've seen plenty of youtube videos where people take to their cast iron table saws with car polishes (and car polishers) without any obvious adverse affect.
I think it affects paint and lacquer finishes mostly. "Fish eye" spots in the finish. Car painters have to get all traces of silicone off any panels being painted. Easier wiping a metal surface than wood that absorbs any solvent.
If you have drastic changes in temperature then you will get condensation on the tools as they will hold the cold long after the air is warmed up, and then that will cause rust.
Im part way thru insulating and lining the garage, Just what I have done has made a huge difference in things going gross in it.
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