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Eitsop
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Handle9
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  #3181754 14-Jan-2024 17:02
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Eitsop:

Eva888:

Ive found great shutters advertised in the US and wish some outfit in NZ would import and install, or copy.  



You can buy from USA and use kiwishipping.co.nz to import.. you just get USA company to deliver to Kiwishipping in California 



Likely 110v though

mulac
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  #3182535 16-Jan-2024 10:11
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Interesting thread - we have the same problem with too much west-facing glass. We have a huge 9kW air conditioner but unless we remember to put that on early enough, it can't beat the solar gain and bring the temp back down to a reasonable temperature (for example if we get back from work at 5pm then turn it on, we're already at early 30's and the air con can only get it down a couple of degrees)

We have a large set of bifold doors that we can open up, however if we open the bifolds the sun hitting the LVT floor directly means:
a) We can't stand on the floor, and

 

b) The glue holding the floor down releases and gaps open up in the floor

 

We had sun blinds put in from Harrison's but it hasn't made that much of a difference, the floor doesn't get as hot but the overall heat in the room hasn't changed much, the air conditioner still struggles to bring the temperature down. 




Eitsop
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  #3182543 16-Jan-2024 10:25
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mulac:

 

Interesting thread - we have the same problem with too much west-facing glass. We have a huge 9kW air conditioner but unless we remember to put that on early enough, it can't beat the solar gain and bring the temp back down to a reasonable temperature (for example if we get back from work at 5pm then turn it on, we're already at early 30's and the air con can only get it down a couple of degrees)

We have a large set of bifold doors that we can open up, however if we open the bifolds the sun hitting the LVT floor directly means:
a) We can't stand on the floor, and

 

b) The glue holding the floor down releases and gaps open up in the floor

 

We had sun blinds put in from Harrison's but it hasn't made that much of a difference, the floor doesn't get as hot but the overall heat in the room hasn't changed much, the air conditioner still struggles to bring the temperature down. 

 

 

In this case i would use the shade cloth externally.. and will make huge difference

 

The material I use is very robust.. and see through, not the cheap stff you get at mitre 10.. but as a Proof of concept you could try

 

 


tweake
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  #3182763 16-Jan-2024 19:25
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mulac:

 

Interesting thread - we have the same problem with too much west-facing glass. We have a huge 9kW air conditioner but unless we remember to put that on early enough, it can't beat the solar gain and bring the temp back down to a reasonable temperature (for example if we get back from work at 5pm then turn it on, we're already at early 30's and the air con can only get it down a couple of degrees)

 

 

i would be looking at external shade (as someone has suggested) but also window films.

 

9kw is fairly sizable unit, what sized room is it in?

 

unfortunately nz homes love to have lots of glass, excessive amounts of glass. a trend at the moment is to install "jailbars" across the windows to reduce light/heat input, instead of saving money (and improving insulation value) by getting rid of the window.


Eva888
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  #3183101 17-Jan-2024 13:24
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For the sun heating windows and wall, if in a non windy position a canvas sail could be a nice option. Clipped on and off each season. 


 
 
 

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Stu1

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  #3183107 17-Jan-2024 13:34
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Eva888:

For the sun heating windows and wall, if in a non windy position a canvas sail could be a nice option. Clipped on and off each season. 



Have to be in pretty sheltered place, we are pretty sheltered but the neighbours sail ripped out our fence post when it snapped :(

mulac
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  #3192000 7-Feb-2024 16:27
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tweake:

 

i would be looking at external shade (as someone has suggested) but also window films.

 

9kw is fairly sizable unit, what sized room is it in?

 

unfortunately nz homes love to have lots of glass, excessive amounts of glass. a trend at the moment is to install "jailbars" across the windows to reduce light/heat input, instead of saving money (and improving insulation value) by getting rid of the window.

 



It's about 45sqm with a wall of glass and a double skylight. Unfortunately, it was my design so I can't blame anybody else. I did ask the architect whether too much glass was a concern, but the wife hated how dark and cold the room was so insisted on it, hence upsizing to the largest unit we could get on the wall. (Panasonic GS80 - actually 8kW cooling, 9kW heating)

 

I do wonder if the AC is working to its advertised capacity, but have no idea how to test that. I've already tried cleaning the filters but they weren't too dirty to begin with.

We'll need to try a shade sail first, will just need to get posts installed on our acute angled section and figure out how to size the sails - we might need to get one custom made, as well as figuring out a way to cover up these skylights over summer but let it all in over winter.


Eitsop
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  #3192081 7-Feb-2024 18:55
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This is much cheaper option

 

 

can get textilene in nz

 

https://www.arizonasunsupply.com/product/textilene-90/


tweake
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  #3192179 7-Feb-2024 21:55
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mulac:

It's about 45sqm with a wall of glass and a double skylight. Unfortunately, it was my design so I can't blame anybody else. I did ask the architect whether too much glass was a concern, but the wife hated how dark and cold the room was so insisted on it, hence upsizing to the largest unit we could get on the wall. (Panasonic GS80 - actually 8kW cooling, 9kW heating)

 

I do wonder if the AC is working to its advertised capacity, but have no idea how to test that. I've already tried cleaning the filters but they weren't too dirty to begin with.

We'll need to try a shade sail first, will just need to get posts installed on our acute angled section and figure out how to size the sails - we might need to get one custom made, as well as figuring out a way to cover up these skylights over summer but let it all in over winter.

 

 

check temps coming out of the aircon and the outdoor unit.

 

if you have a decent amount of mass it stores huge amounts of heat and you will need to cool all that down, which is why it takes so long. hopefully a shade sail etc will prevent the heating.

 

sadly way to much glass is still in fashion and it takes a good designer to make small windows work well.


Handle9
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  #3192186 7-Feb-2024 22:30
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mulac:

 

I do wonder if the AC is working to its advertised capacity, but have no idea how to test that. I've already tried cleaning the filters but they weren't too dirty to begin with.

 

Bushmans test is put your hand above the inlet then very close to the outlet. If it's noticeably cooler on the outlet then the unit is likely working as hard as it can. It likley is dropping the temperature of the air by a signifcant amount but that may not be enough capacity.

 

What it sounds like is happening is you are starting the AC after the load in the room gets out of control. You've said that the AC does bring the room temp down a few degrees which sugests too much load for your cooling capacity.

 

Ideally you'd look at options to reduce the load (shading, window films, awnings) but also some form of automation to bring the AC on before the room temperatures get away on you. 

 

Ultimately it's just energy in/energy out. Basically the room acts as a big thermal battery. Once it's charged up you can't do much about it until it discharges.


 
 
 

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mulac
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  #3192362 8-Feb-2024 11:56
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Thanks all, that makes sense. The temperature is definitely colder coming out of the AC than what is going into the inlet, I was more questioning whether it's possible to confirm whether the AC was indeed pushing out 8kW worth and working at its advertised capacity. The master, for example, is about a quarter of the size and has a 2.5kW AC, which seems to have no problems bringing the temp down from 30 to 22.

 

I'll have to run a power consumption test on leaving the AC on 21 degrees all day vs turning it on at 5pm. It feels like a waste of power having the AC running all day while not at home, but also understand that it might consume even more power trying to bring the temperature back down from 35 degrees on some days.

 

Any ideas where to source that Textilene from? Definitely looks like something I should start with on the skylight.


trouser
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  #3192750 9-Feb-2024 06:53
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Bit late to this one but I have had great results using mirror tint to reject infrared radiation thus significantly reducing room heat gain.

 

Something like Pillar 1.52 x 10m Mirror Tint Adhesive Window Film - Bunnings New Zealand will reject 89% of infrared heat. 

 

Super easy to apply and there are lots of different light rejection options if you don't want the rooms to get too dark.

 

Just be aware mirror tints only reflect the strongest light source so during the day people can't see in but at night with the room lights on you might not be able to see out.

 

 

 

 


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