If your tyres are already worn like that, an alignment might slow down the wear, but the damage is already done.
You will need new tyres along with a wheel alignment - if your shocks are dodgy, then it's possible that just driving the car can "knock" the wheels back out of alignment.
(Driving up and down curbs are that good for wheel alignments)
Following on from that, damage / loose tierods etc. will contribute to the alignment.
That and that most NZ roads (should) have a left hand leaning camber (I think that's right terminology?) - meaning the road is highest in the middle and lowest in the left (curb/drains).
IlDuce: Just to hijack the thread, if one's shock absorbers (both at front), go err eek err eek over speed bumps, is that a sign they are 100% shot, or do shocks "dry" out and make that noise because they need lubed or something? They are not super soft or hard otherwise.
I'd go ask a few suspension places ... tbh some suspensions places will see that you don't know what you are talking about and decide to tell you that they are 100% shot and unsafe etc. Go get that second opinion.
(In my completely non-professional opinion) the noises shouldn't be coming from the shocks and if they are killing the rebound (push down on the suspension - if the car takes a lot of "bouncing" to get back to the normal poisition then the shocks aren't doing their job) then something will need adjusting.
In my own car, it "sounds" like the front shocks are noisy over speed bumps - but the reality is there is a "protective" cover under the engine that scraps the top of the speed bump ... and I'm too lazy currently to implement a fix.
thing is the tyres have been replaced with the alignment. (now L front nearly worn after about 2000ks) no bouncy bouncy shock issues. no noise. no more vibration than when i first had it. ball joints replaced 4 years (30000ks) ago.
all your advise has been good. might find a free check place. if they're charging i'm not getting checked!
why is my steering wheel now neutral at 30deg right turn
if it has changed where straight ahead is, then something has changed. if the wheels are both pointing in or out a fraction then you will get massive tire wear, shytee cornering and weird response from the steering wheel. If one wheel has gone out, then the zero position will be adjusted by half that amount, and both wheels will end up with the bad wear as they are fighting each other.
Competent place to allighn, and replace any shot bushes etc is still the solution. It is an old car, expect to have to replace lots of the suspention components.
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