Network cabinet advice

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#2549033 24-Aug-2020 20:00

cyril7:

Hi, so just for viewers, those are two 42" units, so clearly no issue installing a 24" patch panel, however if you want to put a 24" panel in a 28" panel that also is not a problem, I dont have a photo but you can vertically mount it, normally as close to the side as you can, there are angle brackets that support it, a link for those brackets is below, a pair is around $20

http://dynamix.co.nz/HWS-PPB

Cyril

Thank you I saved one of your earlier Posts on the brackets , I am leaning more towards less ports still working it out .

Jase2985

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#2549071 24-Aug-2020 20:53

look at the kind of bandwidth things use, media streaming, smart tv's etc rarely have more than 100mbps ports on them so something behind the tv you could easily just use a single run with a small switch and you generally wont be using bandwidth heavy devices on multiple ports at once.

bedroom, you say tv and apply tv, what does the tv give you that the apple tv doesnt? still run the 2 cables, then you have spare in case something goes wrong with the other cable. why does a soundbar need internet?

i would give each AP there own cable run.

From you initial list i would do the following

- Bedroom 2 cables, one connected (TV and apple TV)

- Bedroom 2 cables, one connected (TV, Vodafone TV, Soundbar

- Study 2 2 cables, two connected (With 8 port TP switch) (Laptop, printer ect)

- Lounge 1 2 cables, two connected (tv,sound bar, xbox, apple TV, Bluray, Orbi)

-Lounge 2 2 cables, two connected (TV, soundbar,play station, apple tv)

8 Connections, and 10 cables, so a small 12 port patch panel and an 8 port switch along with the ports on the router should cover it, and fit in a 24 port cabinet.

Zeon

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#2549092 24-Aug-2020 21:29

Personally I would need at least 4x cat6a runs to the TV:

2x HDMI (1x sky from network cabinet, 1x from HDMI switch at equipment shelf at back of room)
1x network (with a small switch behind the tv) - soundbar, TV, casting device (like chromecast)
1x USB to equipment shelf for Xbox kinect

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Jase2985

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#2549097 24-Aug-2020 21:34

Zeon:

Personally I would need at least 4x cat6a runs to the TV:

2x HDMI (1x sky from network cabinet, 1x from HDMI switch at equipment shelf at back of room)
1x network (with a small switch behind the tv) - soundbar, TV, casting device (like chromecast)
1x USB to equipment shelf for Xbox kinect

only if you choose to put that equipment in the network cabinet

Stu1

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#2549157 25-Aug-2020 07:29

Jase2985:
look at the kind of bandwidth things use, media streaming, smart tv's etc rarely have more than 100mbps ports on them so something behind the tv you could easily just use a single run with a small switch and you generally wont be using bandwidth heavy devices on multiple ports at once.

bedroom, you say tv and apply tv, what does the tv give you that the apple tv doesnt? still run the 2 cables, then you have spare in case something goes wrong with the other cable. why does a soundbar need internet?

i would give each AP there own cable run.

From you initial list i would do the following

- Bedroom 2 cables, one connected (TV and apple TV)

- Bedroom 2 cables, one connected (TV, Vodafone TV, Soundbar

- Study 2 2 cables, two connected (With 8 port TP switch) (Laptop, printer ect)

- Lounge 1 2 cables, two connected (tv,sound bar, xbox, apple TV, Bluray, Orbi)

-Lounge 2 2 cables, two connected (TV, soundbar,play station, apple tv)

8 Connections, and 10 cables, so a small 12 port patch panel and an 8 port switch along with the ports on the router should cover it, and fit in a 24 port cabinet.

Good point on the tv and Apple TV , main reason is i have Netflix on US on the Apple TV and the tv on normal saves having to switch. I use the soundbar for music services like Spotify and tunein radio . For the second lounge can you recess the switch into the wall behind the tv? . I want to wall mount the tv and sound bar on the wall and have a book case underneath . I didn’t want to have a switch sitting on the book case or on the floor behind it ?

Jase2985

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#2549207 25-Aug-2020 08:00

a small 5 port switch is no bigger than an apple tv and would be able to be velcroed to the back of the tv.

cyril7

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#2549219 25-Aug-2020 08:43

Hi, as Jase says, however if you want tight wall integration even that can be too much.

In a number of reno builds recently I have used the AVB300 and AVB400 behind the TV to contain all the power, HDMI and other junk including a 5port switch, from there a couple of fly leads inside the wall to any AV gear below that needs network and HDMI etc and its all done. Clearly an ATV can easily fit in these also along with a 5port switch.

Cyril

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Stu1

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#2549889 26-Aug-2020 11:23

cyril7:
Hi, as Jase says, however if you want tight wall integration even that can be too much.

In a number of reno builds recently I have used the AVB300 and AVB400 behind the TV to contain all the power, HDMI and other junk including a 5port switch, from there a couple of fly leads inside the wall to any AV gear below that needs network and HDMI etc and its all done. Clearly an ATV can easily fit in these also along with a 5port switch.

Cyril

Thanks Cyril and Jase thats Awsum idea thank you, will have a look at getting these and a 5 port switch

Stu1

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#2550328 26-Aug-2020 20:55

cyril7:

True, which is why I normally limit in wall solutions to 16 ports, over that and its a wall frame or cabinet.

Currently have a new home job on and it's 12 outlets, which is about right for a 3bed I find, just using a pair or 8port panels in a 28" in wall. A 16port switch is 290 wide so easily fits in.

Cyril

Hi Cyril,

Would two of these work for the panel?, and the second link for the 16 port , going with you and Jase advise in a 28 inch cabinet

https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/CHSDNX0075/Dynamix-PP-MINI8-UK-Mini-8-Port-Unloaded-Keystone

https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/SWHTPL1015/TP-Link-TL-SF1016D-16-Port-10100M-Unmanaged-Switch

Cheers Stu

cyril7

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#2550359 26-Aug-2020 21:09

Hi, no the correct part for a patch panel is a pair of the following

https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/CABDNX0354/Dynamix-HPP-1008-1SL-8-Port-Cat6-Slimline-Patch-Pa

and for the switch, you have linked a 10/100 switch, you would be best to get a full GigE switch

https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/SWHTPL1004/TP-Link-TL-SG108-8-Port-Gigabit-Unmanaged-Switch-S

Cyril

Stu1

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#2550362 26-Aug-2020 21:13

cyril7:

Hi, no the correct part for a patch panel is a pair of the following

https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/CABDNX0354/Dynamix-HPP-1008-1SL-8-Port-Cat6-Slimline-Patch-Pa

and for the switch, you have linked a 10/100 switch, you would be best to get a full GigE switch

https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/SWHTPL1004/TP-Link-TL-SG108-8-Port-Gigabit-Unmanaged-Switch-S

Cyril

cool thank you so 2 Of the patch panel and 2 of the switch?

cyril7

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#2550367 26-Aug-2020 21:17

Hi so each of the panels support 8 ports, so you sound like you are heading to between 8 and 16 ports, so two patch panels, and for the switch its a 16 port unit so only one of those is required.

Cyril

Stu1

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#2550374 26-Aug-2020 21:30

cyril7:

Hi so each of the panels support 8 ports, so you sound like you are heading to between 8 and 16 ports, so two patch panels, and for the switch its a 16 port unit so only one of those is required.

Cyril

Hi Cyril only need 12 for the moment but 16 would be good in the future if needed, sorry dumb question I only need the 8 port network switch you suggested for 16 ports?