Thanks for the video and suggestions, @mdf

So far all my printing has been done with ABS as that was all that was available for my current machine. Has anybody printed with PLA, PET-G or TPU? Or even something slightly more exotic like metallic or wood finish filament?

Dingbatt:

 

So far all my printing has been done with ABS as that was all that was available for my current machine. Has anybody printed with PLA, PET-G or TPU? Or even something slightly more exotic like metallic or wood finish filament?

 

I pretty much only use PETG & PLA.

PLA for most "trinkets" or detailed models/toys etc. and PETG for all "working" prints/parts.

Both should be considerably easier/usable than ABS!

I pretty much only use PLA or "PLA+". Really easy to print with and pretty robust. A drybox is a great idea to keep it fresh.

mdf:

 

I pretty much only use PLA or "PLA+". Really easy to print with and pretty robust. A drybox is a great idea to keep it fresh.

 

I put together a custom solution at home.

Bought a large, air-tight storage box - https://www.storagebox.co.nz/bins-boxes/storage-boxes-with-lids/sterilite-box-51l-with-seal-lid

and then bought one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BD0FN8A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I then designed and printed a hook on the lid for it to hang from in the corner and glued it on.

Stores a whole bunch of rolls of filament and seems to keep them as dry as I need!

Nice. Mine is a bit lower rent than that. I chucked in a pile of the cheapest damp rid stuff I could find. I printed a couple of small brackets and ran a section of aluminium rod across to hold the spools. The box itself could be more robust and tends to flex which ruins the seal. Hence the additional "structural" tape. I'd like to add some bowden tube coupling so I can feed filament straight from the box to the printer but it doesn't work in the printer's current location.

Stu:

 

Thanks to this thread (it's not all your fault, though) I've pushed the button on an Ender-3 v2. Not a bad price locally from Marvle3D. I may have also purchased some upgrades (thanks to assistance from @michaelmurfy).

 

Oh dear. Here we go!

 

Don’t get disheartened if it takes while to get going. There can be a lot of trial and error in the beginning as you learn just how many variables - physical, mechanical, electrical, hardware, software - there are and how they can all impact the success (or otherwise) and quality of your prints!

And to go off @Stu's post.

I have an Ender 3 V2 I bought during last years lockdown as something to do. No regrets, printed a whole lot (even for people on here) and use it most days. Currently going through a project to mount as much as I can to the walls in my mancave to tidy up.

I buy my filament (PLA+) from https://marvle3d.co.nz/ and find this to print great - it is also a matte type which I prefer. Other spare parts (such as nozzles) I've actually been buying from Amazon AU.

Use Octoprint w/ the Jyers firmware running on my printer (you'll note my name on his sponsors list - I pay him way too much money but in return he has built some features I wanted, and has helped the community in the process) - https://github.com/Jyers/Marlin/wiki

The Ender 3 V2 is a very mature printer and prints great, is quiet compared to the Ender 3 and using the Jyers firmware the screen is not at all lost when using Octoprint.

But feel free to fire me through questions if you'd like to know more about the V2. I've got no regrets buying mine and have done a whole lot with it (just ask @scul) :)

I bought an ender 3 pro last year after getting sick of issues with my plywood ultimaker. Great little printer. and has done everything I have thrown at it, which is really just clips to hold things to under the desk and similar in black PLA

Tempted to get one of their resin ones now, but will have to dedicate a larger space in the shed for it than I can at the moment for all the clean up stuff needed. The beauty of the FDM is that there is nothing else to do once it comes off the printer and you can easily see if the part isnt what you thought it would be or its gone wrong during the print, whereas a resin one its upside down and in goo and hard to see, and even if you abort it then there is still a hassle to clean the plate off for the next try. And it needs dark which my shed is anything but...

I am glad I asked to get this thread unlocked.

It would be great to see some of the stuff people are doing. Particularly those projects being used for mental health in lockdown.

At the moment my 7 year old machine is not cutting the mustard and it is causing frustration. It is not upgradable so when my new printer arrives I will probably tear down the old one.

First Benchy. PLA+ Silk

I've had a Prusa i3 MK3 for the last couple years. While it's not used every day it has been useful for some practical solutions. Most notably, the pulley in my F&P condenser Dryer disintergrated and from memory I think F&P wanted $60 for the genuine part. After modeling up a replacement and fitting a ball bearing to the centre (an upgrade over the orginal pulley) it was up and running again. It was only PLA so I wasn't expecting a huge life out of it but after checking it 2 years later it's still holding up great