Alkaline AA and AAA batteries - which to get/avoid

Forums › Gadgets, robotics, home automation, electronics (including wearables) › Alkaline AA and AAA batteries - which to get/avoid

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fearandloathing

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#3451041 9-Jan-2026 11:41

You should save all your old batteries so you can dispose of them correctly via recycling (Bunnings have recycling bins for batteries)

Then you realise how many batteries you cycle through. I’ve replaced nearly all my aa+aaa usage with Enelopes. I’ll only buy lithium batteries now for devices that are generally inaccessible and need that long life.

richms

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#3451042 9-Jan-2026 11:42

I have only had them leak when left flat for an extended time. Which will happen with all of them. I have not had any arrive leaking in a package with near 10 years before their install before date like with energizers.

Richard rich.ms

openmedia

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#3451115 9-Jan-2026 12:38

90% of our AA use are a bunch of old DSE rechargables. We did have some AAA NiCad batteries, but they looked too much like normal alkaline and got thrown out by accident.

Generally known online as OpenMedia, now working for Red Hat APAC as a Technology Evangelist and Portfolio Architect. Still playing with MythTV and digital media on the side.

mdav056

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#3451406 9-Jan-2026 21:52

Pale Blue Lithium USB rechargeables are brilliant. PbTech. the only drawback is that they are either on or off, so not to be used in smoke alarms (they won't chirp when getting low voltage). I have all sorts. I have also b ought some from AliExpress (Daweikala) and they are also excellent and much cheaper. I believe lithium never leak (because I have never had one leak).

gml

SepticSceptic

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#3451410 9-Jan-2026 22:48

timmmay:

It's probably better to use a voltmeter to work out battery state of charge.

Use the 10A range, and briefly connect as you would a voltmeter. Should get a reading of 3 - 5 amps for a good AA battery.

Alkaline only.

1 or 2 seconds only.

However this varies widely depending on meter type, lead resistance, etc.

It's not an actual measurement that you need, but rather a comparison test between what is a known good battery, vs one that is pretty done for.

The very high input impedance of modern multimeters place negligible load on the battery, and won't get that voltage dip as if the battery had some loading, ie torch, remote, etc.

wooda2

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#3458488 3-Feb-2026 20:25

pih:

xpd:

Look at Eneloops instead of one use ones.... they last forever.

All signs point to IKEA LADDA batteries being made in the same factory. Might be worth a try.

IKEA Ladda served me well for a few years now. Cheap too.

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