Probably also worth thinking about replacing the sticks with a hall effect stick to prevent this in the future

CokemonZ:

 

Thanks all.

 

 

 

The issue with solder on the controller above I think is because I've bent it open, prior to that was working, just with drift.

 

I've pm'd @cshaun and he's going to give them a crack.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm not totally convinced that the bad joint was caused by your bending it open. You will have flexed the joint and made it more obvious but it's my bet the dry joint was there beforehand.

I've maintained flight sim controllers. The pots on them never drifted, they wore out the wiper arms and fail giving a jumpy response or no response.

I'm curious about what causes them to drift. The resistance of the pot would have to change by a fair amount. A dry joint might do that. I can't think of anything else. Perhaps there is something in the design of that particular pot that will cause them to drift with use/age but I'm doubtful.

I wonder that in changing the pots people are by default fixing a dry joint. Dry joints can be very hard to see with the naked eye.

I've fixed one of these controllers with a drift problem, and as an experienced electronics type, I can tell you it wasn't caused by a dry joint, not in my case anyway.

I am picking a materials issue with the manufacture of the wiper's resistance track.

Tip for extracting it with limited facilities - when you know you can sacrifice the component to be removed, cut each leg above the board so they can be removed one by one.

Am in Wellington so can't help OP but happy to help anybody local who is stuck with one of these (think I still have some spare parts as well).

elpenguino:

 

I've fixed one of these controllers with a drift problem, and as an experienced electronics type, I can tell you it wasn't caused by a dry joint, not in my case anyway.

 

I am picking a materials issue with the manufacture of the wiper's resistance track.

 

 

 

Tip for extracting it with limited facilities - when you know you can sacrifice the component to be removed, cut each leg above the board so they can be removed one by one.

 

 

 

Am in Wellington so can't help OP but happy to help anybody local who is stuck with one of these (think I still have some spare parts as well).

 

Fair comment re the issue with the pots.

Good tip on removing the component. That is a very easy practical way without needing special tools.