Best third party product to add "intelligence" or timer to any air conditioner

Forums › Home Workshop DIY › Best third party product to add "intelligence" or timer to any air conditioner

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#1369144 19-Aug-2015 10:26

timmmay: .... Also potentially interested in DIY options, within reason - if it involves any soldering I'm probably not interested.

I have used most of the Global Cache Itach/GC-100 range for much of my home automation and all of my IR needs for many years.

They are capable of learning and transmitting very long IR codes and I control all of my 2006 model Mitsubishi air-con units with no issues.

However, this is a geeky (non-soldering) solution because the Global Cache hardware is TCP/IP based and you need to control their units with software capable of opening a port and sending the required commands (which are quite simple once you read the API).

If you have some basic knowledge of working with TCP/IP ports you would find them quite useful for controlling anything IR based.

My entire IR control system is based on a local ubuntu/apache web server and PHP scripting to produce a fully featured remote control web page with a mass of html buttons for most AV and home automation. This makes the remote control available to all family members on any web based device that they want to use.

Cost-wise: A single iTach IP2IR or WiFi2IR unit is around US $100-$140 from overseas sites and although they only have 3 IR output ports, I have found that you can actually use stereo jack splitter's to route IR emitters to other devices in other rooms without any major issues.

For example, a single IP2IR Itach is feeding IR to several devices in the Lounge, a few in the Theater room and it also controls the upstairs bedroom air-con via one of the spare RG6 cables where a stick-on IR sender is attached to the bedroom air-con.

The iTach comes with stick-on emitters and a single IR blaster and additional emitters are relatively cheap. The stick-on cables are great for routing to other rooms because you can cut one in half and wire it into the house cabling to run IR control to other devices. I am currently sending IR signals through all types of cables (Cat5e, RG6 and normal AV cables). The emitters only have 2 wires so connecting back to the Itach is easy and there appears to be no major signal loss during long runs (up to about 20-25 meters in my case).

If you have a passion to play around with scripting or programming, you can write simple scripts to automate any IR device. I currently have several working automated functions to turn on or off devices at particular times using these units.

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#1369162 19-Aug-2015 10:45

Interesting option. I'd probably have to run wires everywhere or drill holes in the ceiling for that, which the Mrs probably wouldn't like. So I'd need two units, and a bunch of time to get it all working. That's not a lot cheaper than the off the shelf option for my case. Thanks though, interesting option.

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#1369164 19-Aug-2015 10:46

sbiddle: I'm keen to build my own Arduino solution as a project when I get some time.

I watch with interest, found this site with interesting units and kits.

https://www.cooking-hacks.com/documentation/tutorials/control-hvac-infrared-devices-from-the-internet-with-ir-remote/

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#1369166 19-Aug-2015 10:51

Interesting, but it's still quite expensive when you count the R.Pi and the extra hardware you need. NZ$120 for the R.Pi version, plus the Pi.

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#1369196 19-Aug-2015 11:28

timmmay: Interesting, but it's still quite expensive when you count the R.Pi and the extra hardware you need. NZ$120 for the R.Pi version, plus the Pi.

An arduino clone can be had from about $25 from some NZ suppliers

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#1370184 19-Aug-2015 11:36

datahawk:
timmmay: .... Also potentially interested in DIY options, within reason - if it involves any soldering I'm probably not interested.

I have used most of the Global Cache Itach/GC-100 range for much of my home automation and all of my IR needs for many years.

They are capable of learning and transmitting very long IR codes and I control all of my 2006 model Mitsubishi air-con units with no issues.

However, this is a geeky (non-soldering) solution because the Global Cache hardware is TCP/IP based and you need to control their units with software capable of opening a port and sending the required commands (which are quite simple once you read the API).

If you have some basic knowledge of working with TCP/IP ports you would find them quite useful for controlling anything IR based.

My entire IR control system is based on a local ubuntu/apache web server and PHP scripting to produce a fully featured remote control web page with a mass of html buttons for most AV and home automation. This makes the remote control available to all family members on any web based device that they want to use.

Cost-wise: A single iTach IP2IR or WiFi2IR unit is around US $100-$140 from overseas sites and although they only have 3 IR output ports, I have found that you can actually use stereo jack splitter's to route IR emitters to other devices in other rooms without any major issues.

For example, a single IP2IR Itach is feeding IR to several devices in the Lounge, a few in the Theater room and it also controls the upstairs bedroom air-con via one of the spare RG6 cables where a stick-on IR sender is attached to the bedroom air-con.

The iTach comes with stick-on emitters and a single IR blaster and additional emitters are relatively cheap. The stick-on cables are great for routing to other rooms because you can cut one in half and wire it into the house cabling to run IR control to other devices. I am currently sending IR signals through all types of cables (Cat5e, RG6 and normal AV cables). The emitters only have 2 wires so connecting back to the Itach is easy and there appears to be no major signal loss during long runs (up to about 20-25 meters in my case).

If you have a passion to play around with scripting or programming, you can write simple scripts to automate any IR device. I currently have several working automated functions to turn on or off devices at particular times using these units.

FYI - openHAB has a binding for the Global Cache IR system.

https://github.com/openhab/openhab/wiki/Global-Cache-IR-Binding

Potentially a bit simpler as it probably doesn't require as much scripting, and you get a UI with native iOS/Android apps thrown in.

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timmmay

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#1370225 19-Aug-2015 12:42

Is there any way openhab could help do this cheaply?

SumnerBoy

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#1370245 19-Aug-2015 13:28

openHAB is just software so you will still need some hardware to *speak* to your device. If your A/C is in the living room something like the Global Cache device might be a worthwhile investment since you can then setup openHAB to control all of your AV gear as well as the A/C (and anything else nearby that is IR).

You will still need something to run openHAB on tho - a Rapsberry Pi 2 is probably the most cost effective option.

So the cost for *just controlling the A/C* is probably higher than you were hoping for, however if you plan it right you could end up with a load more devices that are controllable, for the same outlay.

Plus, if you have anything IP controllable (e.g. Yamaha AVR, smart TV, Squeezebox, Sonos, XBMC) you can hook these into openHAB for free since they all have bindings readily available.

KShips

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#1370313 19-Aug-2015 15:00

timmmay: Is there any way openhab could help do this cheaply?

I'm looking forward to this being finished http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1402/ir-blaster-progress which I hope will control both our heatpumps.

Also can build one using http://www.mysensors.org/build/ir Due to having a Toshiba heatpump have extremely long IR code won't fit on Arduino nano (that I could work out with limited knowledge) which means I'd need a Arduino Mega to store code, I have now brought one but not tried setting up yet.

MySenors works with openHab

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#1370329 19-Aug-2015 15:23

What about a Broadlink RM Home? (~USD$30). Might need two depending on if you have line of sight to both heatpumps. Have used one before and it done the job ok.
Similar devices like the "geeklink" can be setup with a hub and an extender - but I've never tried one of these.

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#1370349 19-Aug-2015 16:11

That Broadlink thing looks interesting, and a couple of youtube reviews say it seems to work. For $33 it seems like a pretty good option if you want direct control from your phone. You'd have to add some kind of other app or controller to get a timer though.

I like the geeklink website - it has infrared lambs!

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#1370403 19-Aug-2015 17:29

Love my Tado https://www.tado.com/ but guess you would need two and would be out of budget unless can use an IR repeater

Adamww

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#1370407 19-Aug-2015 17:39

timmmay: That Broadlink thing looks interesting, and a couple of youtube reviews say it seems to work. For $33 it seems like a pretty good option if you want direct control from your phone. You'd have to add some kind of other app or controller to get a timer though.

The Broadlink has built in timer/scheduling.

timmmay

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#1370428 19-Aug-2015 18:15

Adamww:
timmmay: That Broadlink thing looks interesting, and a couple of youtube reviews say it seems to work. For $33 it seems like a pretty good option if you want direct control from your phone. You'd have to add some kind of other app or controller to get a timer though.

The Broadlink has built in timer/scheduling.

Great! Do you happen to know if your phone as to be on and internet connected for that to work, or if the device does it? Just because I want to turn heating on before I get home.

Seems like amazing device for the money!

Adamww

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#1370554 19-Aug-2015 21:16

timmmay:
Adamww:
timmmay: That Broadlink thing looks interesting, and a couple of youtube reviews say it seems to work. For $33 it seems like a pretty good option if you want direct control from your phone. You'd have to add some kind of other app or controller to get a timer though.

The Broadlink has built in timer/scheduling.

Great! Do you happen to know if your phone as to be on and internet connected for that to work, or if the device does it? Just because I want to turn heating on before I get home.

No, the schedule and commands are stored in the cloud, so only the broadllink needs to be connected to the net all the time but not your phone. Check out the video at the bottom of this page; http://broadlink.co.nz/content/7-tips-and-tricks it shows how to set up a heatpump and schedule.

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