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  #2844785 7-Jan-2022 11:19
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https://www.building.govt.nz/assets/Uploads/building-code-compliance/warnings-bans/201601-Foil-insulation-ban.pdf

 

 

Ceilings, walls, and underfloor.

 

 

Metal cladding is rigid, so it won't cling to you or drape on you. This means you can more easily throw or be thrown clear.

 

 

Nails and screws are large enough to be more likely to hit multiple conductors if driven into a cable, causing a short and disconnecting the supply - this was more likely with older cable with a central phase conductor. Staples almost certainly will not hit multiple conductors.

 

 




jonathan18
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  #2844796 7-Jan-2022 11:56
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Apologies for the thread cr@p, but an issue I'm dealing with is directly related to stuff raised in this thread.

 

I'm in the process of finding a builder to tidy up the 'ceiling' of my garage, and reading this thread has made me wonder about the current build; it's currently got foil insulation below the builder's paper with wooden battens holding it up, but it's falling down in some places where it's taped, plus it's not a smooth surface so gathers lots of dust, webs etc. My plan has been to have the builder place a thin ply over this to provide a solid 'ceiling'.

 

Having read through that PDF it's clear I can't staple any exiting foil back into place, but it doesn't mention taping - and it only needs to be held in place long enough to get the ply on. Does this sound like an ok approach?

 

The other option could be to remove the battens and foil, and replace them with some other form of insulation - like the OP's, our garage does get hot, so this could be a chance to improve this (but at quite a cost, I assume). Also, a lot of that heat will come through the metal roller door, which can't be insulated. I'd rather go with the 'fix the current install' rather than embark on a costly refit, if that's at all possible.

 

Anyway, would appreciate any thoughts on the best options. Thanks.

 


elpenguino
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  #2844808 7-Jan-2022 13:02
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SomeoneSomewhere: https://www.building.govt.nz/assets/Uploads/building-code-compliance/warnings-bans/201601-Foil-insulation-ban.pdf Ceilings, walls, and underfloor.

 

 

 

Thanks.

 

The OP's use would be under-roof so presumably not covered by this ban. Checks would need to be made.





Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21




elpenguino
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  #2844809 7-Jan-2022 13:05
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jonathan18:

 

Anyway, would appreciate any thoughts on the best options. Thanks.

 

 

Batts are about $100-200 for the area of a single garage.

 

Poke the foil into position, add batts supported by nylon packing tape stapled to the rafters.

 

Line. 

 

Done.





Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21


jm3

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  #2844861 7-Jan-2022 15:23
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I have similar heat issues in my standalone garage. It's only a few years old and on a slab with fully insulated walls r2.2 with plywood linings. No roof lining or roof insulation and the roller door gets full sun.

I plan to put a verandah down one side for wood storage and a big pergola in front. Hopefully both will reduce direct solar but I may still need some mechanical ventilation.

We store food and I want to be able to use the space for home brew fridge/freezers etc...

This solar extract looked interesting. Anyone had real-world experience with them?
https://alsynite.co.nz/products/hatches-vents/green-vent-solar/

wellygary
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  #2844864 7-Jan-2022 15:29
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jm3: I have similar heat issues in my standalone garage. It's only a few years old and on a slab with fully insulated walls r2.2 with plywood linings. No roof lining or roof insulation and the roller door gets full sun.

...
We store food and I want to be able to use the space for home brew fridge/freezers etc...

 

Line the Roof, Its probably the first job.... keeping the heat out is easier than moving it out once it is inside... 


duckDecoy

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  #2844896 7-Jan-2022 17:01
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So if foil is no longer an option, will bats under the exposed roof (building paper with tin on top) work?  Or was it specifically needing to be reflective to keep the roof heat out.


 
 
 

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raytaylor
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  #2845282 8-Jan-2022 13:58
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Yes, you can place batts between the rafters to create a sandwich of 

 

Roofing Iron
builders paper
| Rafter | Batts | Rafter |
Gib or Lining to create a ceiling

 

 

 

If you can do the walls it will also make a big difference - if budget is a problem, do the ceiling and then next priority is the walls facing the sun. 





Ray Taylor

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