Did you figure it out? I’m in a similar spot. 

Nick

NZ255:

 

Did you figure it out? I’m in a similar spot. 

 

Nick

 

I have the same problem. Both Resene quick dry (water based) and Resene Sureseal (oil based) with Resene Lustacryl over the top failed.

I have had success with one window. It's been a couple of years and I'm not entirely sure what was used. I think it was primed with a Dulux product (don't know which one sorry) and Resene Lustacryl on top. Or possibly Zinzner Coverstain with a Dulux water based top coat. That window is also on the sheltered south side of the house so not subject to the hot sun like the areas that failed. 

Resene recommended priming with their "wood primer", although I never got around to trying it. Don't use that on totara or matai because those woods make it take ages to dry. 

I had some other windows done by a painter who used a flexible sealant between the glass and the glazing compound which seems to have worked. I don't know what the sealant was, I suspect Sika MS. It's paintable, softer than no more gaps and harder than Selleys kitchen and bathroom silicone or Sika NG. 

Hopefully this helps. Apologies for the vagueness, there was a lot going on at the time and I didn't do much of it myself.

Oh good, it's not just my "average" painting skills then.

Pretty consistently on the bottom edge of the glass I have to repaint every few years to deal with the flaking.  I only use the waterborne products from primer up though.  Never bothered thinking through the oil based putty vs waterborne primer.

Would an Etching Primer work better as it’s designed to stick onto surfaces that don’t have normal adhesion. There are also special paints available to change the colour of your laminated bench top or ceramic tiles that will have stronger adhesion.