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nzdan

9 posts

Wannabe Geek


#319303 11-Apr-2025 18:23
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Hi all,

 

In Resene ColorShop, they told me that when painting over exterior glazing putty, the paint should be overlapped 1-2mm onto the window glass. This makes complete sense, since it will seal the gap and prevent water getting into the window frame. My problem is I can't get the paint to stay stuck to the glass. On windows exposed to rain, the paint will eventually flake away from the glass (see photo below). It's not just one window, it happens on every external window around the house. It was also like this when I brought the house, which indicates previous owners had the same issue.

 

This is the process I've followed and is what Resene suggested:

 

     

  1. Clean the glass very well using isopropyl alcohol, let it dry for 1 hour, clean again with microfiber cloth
  2. Paint glazing putty with Resene oil based enamel undercoat and overlap this 1-2mm onto window glass (the glazing putty is oil based)
  3. Repeat step 2, but this time use Resene quick dry waterborne undercoat
  4. Repeat step 2, but this time use Resene lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel (top coat)

 

So that's three coats, all overlapped roughly 1-2mm onto the window glass. This eventually failed on every window where I followed this process - the paint eventually flaked away from the glass.

 

I have also experimented with only overlapping the topcoat (Resene Lustacryl) directly onto the window glass 1-2mm. It also eventually ends up flaking away, usually after rain. As above, I was very careful to clean the glass properly beforehand. Resene Lustacryl is advertised as suitable for exterior use, so I don't think that's the issue. I've had no issues with it on the window frames, just the window glass. Also worth mentioning the window frames are otherwise watertight, meaning this most likely isn't an issue with damp wood in the window frames.

 

 

 

Does anyone know what I can do to prevent the paint flaking away from the glass? Thanks!

 

 

 

Example of paint flaking away from window glass (I was not responsible for the scratched glass!):

 


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mattwnz
19994 posts

Uber Geek


  #3363087 11-Apr-2025 20:25
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Maybe it is due to the newer generation of water based, compared to oil based paint. The last time I painted windows I think In used oil based paints


 
 
 

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Bung
6319 posts

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  #3363090 11-Apr-2025 20:52
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"2. Paint glazing putty with Resene oil based enamel undercoat and overlap this 1-2mm onto window glass (the glazing putty is oil based)"

 

Resene's data sheet for enamel undercoat says primer required. I'd substitute oil based primer for the undercoat.


mdf

mdf
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  #3363092 11-Apr-2025 20:58
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How old is the putty? 

 

When you paint up the glass, are you going by eye, masking, or over painting then razor blading?




nzdan

9 posts

Wannabe Geek


  #3363093 11-Apr-2025 21:08
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mattwnz:

 

Maybe it is due to the newer generation of water based, compared to oil based paint. The last time I painted windows I think In used oil based paints

 

 

As a last resort I could try going entirely oil based, not just the undercoat. But according to Resene, a water based top coat should work on window glass. Have a feeling I'm missing something. Thanks.


nzdan

9 posts

Wannabe Geek


  #3363094 11-Apr-2025 21:18
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Bung:

 

"2. Paint glazing putty with Resene oil based enamel undercoat and overlap this 1-2mm onto window glass (the glazing putty is oil based)"

 

Resene's data sheet for enamel undercoat says primer required. I'd substitute oil based primer for the undercoat.

 

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

According to Resene, their oil based enamel undercoat can be used directly on glazing putty and this is what they recommend. But good point that perhaps it needs a primer on glass. I just had a look at the datasheet for Resene oil based enamel undercoat and all of the priming instructions are for metal, particle board, plasterboard, timer or varnished surfaces. And the primer they recommend is Resene Quick Dry which is water based which can't be used on oil based glazing putty. The only oil based Resene primer I can find is Resene Wood Primer, just not sure if it will work on glazing putty. Also worth noting there is no issue with Resene oil based enamel undercoat sticking to the glazing putty, only the glass.


nzdan

9 posts

Wannabe Geek


  #3363095 11-Apr-2025 21:21
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mdf:

 

How old is the putty? 

 

When you paint up the glass, are you going by eye, masking, or over painting then razor blading?

 

 

Some of it I'm guessing 10-15 years. But worth mentioning I also replaced the worst of it with new glazing putty (linseed oil based). I have the same issue with paint flaking away from the glass with both the old and new putty.

 

I'm painting by eye and got pretty good at getting a straight line without masking tape. But where I made any mistakes, I fixed up with a razor blade.


nzdan

9 posts

Wannabe Geek


  #3363098 11-Apr-2025 21:30
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Thanks for the replies so far. I just found a page on the Resene website called "How to paint windows / joinery" (I'm not allowed to post the url because I just joined these forums). 

 

Reading through that page, I found someone who posted this - exactly the same issue as me and they followed exactly the same method with the same paint:

 

 I have been restoring windows in a 1930s bungalow. This has involved completely stripping the sashes and frames and replacing all putty with linseed based putty. I have been priming the putty with Resene Enamel Undercoat, as recommended to go over the oil based putty, once this has cured enough. The next coat over the enamel and the rest of the sashes is Resene Quick Dry primer/undercoat. The final two coats are Resene Lustacryl waterborne enamel, this is a Resene CoolColour as we have gone for a dark paint for the exterior of the windows.

 

The problem I have is where I have lapped the paint onto the glass 1-2mm as recommended, I am getting some windows where the paint is peeling off the glass. This appears to be after rain as water has run down the window. This is not all windows, I have about 25 sections of glass I have done so far, but only about a third seem to have the issue. I have repainted some sections but getting the same result. Could you please let me know what I’m doing wrong here?

 

And the answer from Resene:

 

You are doing the right system. Winter weather is not on your side. It’s hard to find the right amount of settled weather in colder months for putty and paint to dry and cure properly anywhere in the country in winter.

 

Colder winter months is definitely not the issue for me since I have been painting the windows starting November. And there was no rain for at least a couple of weeks after I finished, so should have been enough time for the paint to cure.

 

I have a feeling something is missing...




pih

pih
642 posts

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  #3363116 12-Apr-2025 08:12
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Just a thought: Perhaps it's not water getting in, but trying to get out that is the problem? Maybe when the paint was applied, there was some moisture in the window frame from your last rain which has gradually worked its way up between the window and putty?

 

Do you get any condensation? It could also be condensation on the inside that's dripping down and pulled around the bottom of the window pane via capillary action.

 

Next time you're ready to paint, ensure it's thoroughly dry and try sealing the inside as well.


mdf

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  #3363125 12-Apr-2025 09:17
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nzdan:

 

mdf:

 

How old is the putty? 

 

When you paint up the glass, are you going by eye, masking, or over painting then razor blading?

 

 

Some of it I'm guessing 10-15 years. But worth mentioning I also replaced the worst of it with new glazing putty (linseed oil based). I have the same issue with paint flaking away from the glass with both the old and new putty.

 

I'm painting by eye and got pretty good at getting a straight line without masking tape. But where I made any mistakes, I fixed up with a razor blade.

 

 

Just thoughts, but... 

 

New linseed oil putty has to be left for 4-6 weeks before overcoating. As someone else said, you also need to make sure that there is no moisture behind trying to get out. 

 

I've had issues with paint on glass 'tearing' if you go straight to cleaning up with a razor blade. I had much better luck using a Stanley or craft knife to cut a line in the paint ~2 mm up then razor blading to that line. 


mdf

mdf
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  #3363126 12-Apr-2025 09:19
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And does this happen on all 4 sides of the glass or just the bottom edge? 


nzdan

9 posts

Wannabe Geek


  #3363130 12-Apr-2025 10:08
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pih:

 

Just a thought: Perhaps it's not water getting in, but trying to get out that is the problem? Maybe when the paint was applied, there was some moisture in the window frame from your last rain which has gradually worked its way up between the window and putty?

 

Do you get any condensation? It could also be condensation on the inside that's dripping down and pulled around the bottom of the window pane via capillary action.

 

Next time you're ready to paint, ensure it's thoroughly dry and try sealing the inside as well.

 

 

It's a good thought and something I've investigated already. I can't see how water is getting into the window frames, the rest of the paint job is very good and well sealed. To be sure, I even drilled a few holes into the bottom of the window frames and confirmed the wood chips that came out were tinder dry.

 

Also, I've already repainted the inside of the windows so no chance of condensation getting in. On that note, I used the same paint on the insides but without the oil based under coat (since there is no glazing putty on the insides). There are no issues with the paint flaking on the inside, just the outside which tends to indicate rain is the issue. Additionally, the house has a DVS and I never see condensation on the windows.

 

Thanks.


nzdan

9 posts

Wannabe Geek


  #3363131 12-Apr-2025 10:12
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mdf:

 

Just thoughts, but... 

 

New linseed oil putty has to be left for 4-6 weeks before overcoating. As someone else said, you also need to make sure that there is no moisture behind trying to get out. 

 

I've had issues with paint on glass 'tearing' if you go straight to cleaning up with a razor blade. I had much better luck using a Stanley or craft knife to cut a line in the paint ~2 mm up then razor blading to that line. 

 

 

Yep, I waited at least 4-6 weeks until the putty had skinned over before painting. I just replied re the moisture, really don't think that's the issue.

 

The sections where I used the razor blade were minimal, some windows not at all and still have the paint flaking issue.

 

Thanks


nzdan

9 posts

Wannabe Geek


  #3363133 12-Apr-2025 10:16
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mdf:

 

And does this happen on all 4 sides of the glass or just the bottom edge? 

 

 

Just the bottom edge and on some windows about 4-5 inches up the sides from the bottom. Which I think indicates rain getting under the paint is the issue.

 

I'm starting to consider trying Resene solventborne paint (oil based) to see if that's any better. Being oil based, it makes logical sense it might repel water better. But still a bit confused since I followed the exact instructions from Resene using their waterborne paints, so would have expected it to work.


mdf

mdf
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  #3363158 12-Apr-2025 13:10
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I'm stumped. It sounds like you've done everything right. As you say, the fact it is just towards the bottom implies something climactic - either rain or possibly extra UV? 

 

I's not sure I would go for oil based paint on joinery though. It will yellow over time.

 

The Resene Technical line is really good (0800 RESENE). You might like to try them next.


nzdan

9 posts

Wannabe Geek


  #3363300 12-Apr-2025 19:21
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mdf:

 

I'm stumped. It sounds like you've done everything right. As you say, the fact it is just towards the bottom implies something climactic - either rain or possibly extra UV? 

 

I's not sure I would go for oil based paint on joinery though. It will yellow over time.

 

The Resene Technical line is really good (0800 RESENE). You might like to try them next.

 

 

I'm stumped too! 

 

I've just been reading that Resene waterborne paints have poor adhesion to glass. That at least explains why my attempt to overlap the lustacryl waterborne enamel topcoat directly onto the glass ended up failing. I suspect what might have happened when I followed the Resene suggested method, is I overlapped the quick dry primer and/or lustacryl topcoat beyond the oil based undercoat and directly onto the glass. Meaning the waterborne paints were directly exposed to the glass just beyond the oil based undercoat. Perhaps the key to making it work, is to make sure the waterborne primer and top coats do not extend beyond the oil based undercoat and onto the glass. But then you would have an undercoat directly exposed to UV, which as you suggested might be playing a role. 

 

Surely it shouldn't be this tricky! Maybe I will try the Resene technical line as you suggested. But to be honest, after two trips to the Resene colour shop, I lost confidence in their advice. No harm in trying again I guess.

 

Thanks for your help, good to at least know I haven't missed anything obvious. And good point about oil based paint yellowing over time, I didn't think of that.

 

 


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