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tweake
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  #3382586 10-Jun-2025 19:30
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seams to be a ton of poor info already.

 

first thing is nz houses are typically air leaky, they are not air tight.

 

use the bath fan etc, its good to get bad stuff out of the house, but thats not really a major cause. yes media makes a big song and dance about it but its not strictly true. i even dry clothes inside and the humidity level doesn't change.

 

all homes require ventilation. opening windows is the classic and you need a few open all the time. open windows is poor because the ventilation still depends on what the wind does. ventilation systems are a LOT better. but ventilation has limits depending on outside temps and humidity, and how well you heat your home.  even with a ventilation system your going to get some condensation on those god awful uninsulated window frames (imho the biggest con building industry pulled). but ventilation companies do a trick to make them condensation free, tho its not really good.

 

heating is part of the equation to. kiwis are really bad at heating whole homes. heat moves moisture and cold spots is where that moisture settles.

 

fortunately you need humidity above 80% for a long enough time for mold to grow (if it was 65% every home would be a mold fest). 

 

dehumidifiers, shouldn't really need one. ventilation should do it mostly. if for some reason you need it, refrigeration is fine. your house should never be that cold it performs badly. a desiccant dehumidifier is less efficient and costly to run due to the heat required for the regen. they are typically used when you want super low humidity levels, which you do not want in a home. you want 50% humidity, not 5% humidity. 

 

so put a ventilation system in, keep the windows closed, heat the house properly. put up with a bit of condensation on the lousy window frames nz builders wanted you to have.




mattwnz
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  #3382600 10-Jun-2025 20:12
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timmmay:

 

Dehumidifier mode is just cooling, you don't really want that in winter.

 

 

 

 

not sure about that because water should drain outside via a condensation pipe from the indoor unit. But maybe it depends on the heat pump. I think it is referred to as dry mode


timmmay
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  #3382601 10-Jun-2025 20:14
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The water does drain outside, the problem is you don't want to be using cooling in winter.




Handle9
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  #3382605 10-Jun-2025 20:30
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timmmay:

 

The water does drain outside, the problem is you don't want to be using cooling in winter.

 

 

A standalone dehumidifier passes the air over both the evaporator and the condensor so doesn't result in much change in temperature in the space at all. An AC running in dehum will cool the coils down below dew point so as you say will cool the space.


networkn
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  #3382717 11-Jun-2025 09:08
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I have a question. Would it be feasible/good or bad idea, to simply double/triple glaze SOME windows, in each of the badly affected rooms? Retrofitting our entire house is a massive expense, but if we could dramaticall improve things, by say replacing 1/3 would that be an idea to consider? 

 

 


timmmay
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  #3382733 11-Jun-2025 10:02
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I think you would need to replace every window that gets condensation, plus any aluminium frames that are not thermally broken. I'm not sure how replacing a small number of windows would help. 


 
 
 
 

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elpenguino
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  #3382746 11-Jun-2025 10:54
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It looks like the windows are working as expected for a non-thermally broken frame. Aluminium is a very good conductor of heat (which is why it's used for cylinder heads etc) and because you have overnight low temperatures, the inside of the frame is pretty much the same temperature as the outside.

 

 

 

Once you bring something so cold into the warm room, it condenses the humidity from your room.

 

 

 

We get the same condensation* in our one bedroom with a double glazed non-thermally broken framed window. Doesn't stop the room being the most comfortable in the house.

 

 

 

 

 

*maybe not as bad as the photo because our overnight lows are not as low as Christchurch amongst other things.





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richms
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  #3382753 11-Jun-2025 11:19
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mattwnz:

 

timmmay:

 

Dehumidifier mode is just cooling, you don't really want that in winter.

 

 

 

 

not sure about that because water should drain outside via a condensation pipe from the indoor unit. But maybe it depends on the heat pump. I think it is referred to as dry mode

 

 

It only has a single coil in the inside unit, so it can only either heat or cool. To dehumidify you need to pass it over the cold, and then the hot to restore temperature.

 

All dry mode does on aircons is slow the fan right down so that the most water can come out of it. All that heat taken out is then dumped outside the house as normal for cooling. Its relevant for the tropics, not for NZ cold humid winters.





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David321

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  #3382810 11-Jun-2025 12:13
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Hi all OP here, 

 

Have learnt a bit from this thread, I do like that look of those ventilation systems with heat exchange/transfer systems built in. Although something tell me this will be a very expensive option.

 

I am not sure DVS OR HRV would be a good option in a new build as I suspect the house is reasonably well sealed (for NZ standards anyway), that's why I believe these systems which suck fresh air from outside and expel air from inside are a good option, never considered those before as I figured the incoming air would be cold, but the heat exchange/transfer tech looks good.

 

As a bit of a trial last night in two bedrooms that are occupied we cracked the windows ever so slightly and as usual closed the thermal curtains which also go to about 1cm from the floor, the results were completely dry aluminum and glass in the morning, they would usually be dripping wet. I imagine the thermal curtains would keep back a lot of the cold air coming through the window.

 

Not sure if it was just lucky conditions but we will try the same thing again tonight and see how it goes, may crack a few more windows throughout the house also.

 

Out of curiosity has anyone had a ventilation system installed with a heat exchange/transfer built in? the idea of bringing fresh air into a house and pumping old air out without wasting heat seem genius, I wonder how much heat is actually lost as I doubt it would be a 100% temp transfer from old air to new.

 

 





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mentalinc
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  #3382811 11-Jun-2025 12:16
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As you have seen, simply open a window and leave it open during the day should get you a 80% outcome for free.





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tweake
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  #3382930 11-Jun-2025 17:55
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networkn:

 

I have a question. Would it be feasible/good or bad idea, to simply double/triple glaze SOME windows, in each of the badly affected rooms? Retrofitting our entire house is a massive expense, but if we could dramaticall improve things, by say replacing 1/3 would that be an idea to consider? 

 

 

 

 

insulation really needs to be continuous to be effective. if you do it you will get some gain, but not all the gain until its all complete.

 

the other thing to consider, is sometimes you don't get a lot of gain with double glazing anyway. the difference between single glazing and double is not a whole lot. it all depends on what you got and the rest of the house.

 

eg i think its branz that has it somewhere, a wooden window with single glazing has higher insulation value than a non-thermally broken aluminum double glazing. 


 
 
 

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tweake
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  #3382935 11-Jun-2025 18:10
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David321:

 

Hi all OP here, 

 

Have learnt a bit from this thread, I do like that look of those ventilation systems with heat exchange/transfer systems built in. Although something tell me this will be a very expensive option.

 

I am not sure DVS OR HRV would be a good option in a new build as I suspect the house is reasonably well sealed (for NZ standards anyway), that's why I believe these systems which suck fresh air from outside and expel air from inside are a good option, never considered those before as I figured the incoming air would be cold, but the heat exchange/transfer tech looks good.

 

As a bit of a trial last night in two bedrooms that are occupied we cracked the windows ever so slightly and as usual closed the thermal curtains which also go to about 1cm from the floor, the results were completely dry aluminum and glass in the morning, they would usually be dripping wet. I imagine the thermal curtains would keep back a lot of the cold air coming through the window.

 

Not sure if it was just lucky conditions but we will try the same thing again tonight and see how it goes, may crack a few more windows throughout the house also.

 

Out of curiosity has anyone had a ventilation system installed with a heat exchange/transfer built in? the idea of bringing fresh air into a house and pumping old air out without wasting heat seem genius, I wonder how much heat is actually lost as I doubt it would be a 100% temp transfer from old air to new.

 

 

 

 

this is a huge topic, but yes balanced ventilation is more expensive and really you want a reasonable air tight house for it to be worth it. nz house are typically not that air tight. you can get them tested but that costs $$$. 

 

the other thing to keep in mind is its not really a big issue. your house is already leaking more air than your windows you left open and your not complaining about the cold it causes. air doesn't hold a lot of heat. the difference in heating cost between balanced system and ppv or windows is not really all that much. when you get into air tight homes, you have to do a balanced system.

 

a cheap ppv system with the right features will work just fine.

 

the common problem, especially for landlords is people put their hands next the to the vents and "thats cold" and shut off the ventilation and then wonder why the house is now moldy. its mind over matter. kiwis are taught not to heat homes and freak out when there is an open window. 

 

btw your good curtains is also why your getting condensation. the better the curtains, the colder the window gets, the more condensation it has. common trick is to leave curtains open or blow air in behind the curtains (making the curtains pointless).

 

HRV (not the brand) balanced ventilation is somewhere around 70% efficient (there is different cores depending on how cold your aera is) and i think ERV is up around 80-90%. i would have to go look it up. ERV is better BUT it opens up another can of worms.


tweake
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  #3382937 11-Jun-2025 18:13
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mentalinc:

 

As you have seen, simply open a window and leave it open during the day should get you a 80% outcome for free.

 

 

yes, but it doesn't work as well because your relying on wind. no wind no ventilation, windy then its way to much ventilation. plus insects come in and those two legged pests tend to come in to. plus rain, pollen etc. filtered forced air at a controlled rate is a whole lot better.


Handle9
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  #3383005 11-Jun-2025 20:42
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networkn:

 

I have a question. Would it be feasible/good or bad idea, to simply double/triple glaze SOME windows, in each of the badly affected rooms? Retrofitting our entire house is a massive expense, but if we could dramaticall improve things, by say replacing 1/3 would that be an idea to consider? 

 

 

The juice probably isn't worth the squeeze.

 

What is the problem you are trying to solve? Condensation, thermal performance or something else. If it's condensation (eg on the south side) you may be able to get away with it but it depends.


nova
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  #3383074 12-Jun-2025 09:02
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David321:

 

As a bit of a trial last night in two bedrooms that are occupied we cracked the windows ever so slightly and as usual closed the thermal curtains which also go to about 1cm from the floor, the results were completely dry aluminum and glass in the morning, they would usually be dripping wet. I imagine the thermal curtains would keep back a lot of the cold air coming through the window.

 

Not sure if it was just lucky conditions but we will try the same thing again tonight and see how it goes, may crack a few more windows throughout the house also.

 

 

It has been a bit warmer in Christchurch over night for the last couple of nights, and before that there was a run of particularly cold nights. We have old-ish double glazing, and were getting quite a bit of condensation then, but also haven't had any for the last couple of nights. It is very hard to do experiments when you can't control all of the variables! Your photo did look pretty bad, so might be worth doing something, but you really need to figure out how often it happens. If it is only 10 nights a year then using a cloth to wipe it up (or a window vac) and making sure that shower and kitchen ventilation is used properly might be enough to prevent mould etc.


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