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David321

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#319873 10-Jun-2025 09:25
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Hi all,

 

My wife and I have a recently built house (almost 3 years old), its a large-ish (200sq) house with a single high wall 8kw heat pump. We run a small oil heater in the master bedroom as it is far away form the main living area where the heat pump is and therefor is usually a little bit cold without the boost of heat from the oil heater. 

 

This is our first full winter in the place and we have noticed our aluminum windows in most rooms and condensating a lot, we do sleep with bedroom door closed which i understand probably does not help but it's more of a necessity due to other people making noise in the house when others are trying to sleep etc, however I wouldn't expect this to be the sole cause of so much condensation, and we keep all internal doors open during the day with the heat pump running.

 

The house is warm enough, and obviously it's the warm moist air coming into contact with the cold aluminum thats creating this issue, so I wanted to check is this a normal amount.

 

I know one of the best things to do is open the house up for a few mins a day to exchange the air, but with a average temp in chch hardly hitting 5 deg and a 6 month old in the house this isn't overly ideal either.

 

I am curious if this amount of condensation is normal, the aluminum is drenched to the point it drips, is there anything else we can do to combat this?

 

I was thinking of getting a dehumidifier, would this address the issue, or due to the size of our house would we need a few?

 

If a dehumidifier is the way to go what should I look for? I don't know to much about them except how many litres per day they can remove, even then there is big price differences though, for example a 20L Mitsubishi can go for close to 1k and a 20L midea at Trade Depot goes for $300 and it has WiFi and a humidistat, there must be some advantages to the Mitsi for the price difference?

 

 

 

 

 





_David_

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lurker
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  #3382385 10-Jun-2025 09:34
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Have you looked into DVS or HRV products?




johno1234
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  #3382386 10-Jun-2025 09:36
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Modern homes seal like a bottle. Maybe just open a window from time to time to freshen the air. It doesn't have to be long enough to make the house cold and your heat pump will defeat that if well sized. Are you venting your laundry and kitchen?

 

 


BlargHonk
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  #3382388 10-Jun-2025 09:50
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Have a look at the desiccant dehumidifiers. They work better than compressor based ones at lower temps. We have the Dimplex one and it is awesome. The Goldair one is also highly rated. 

 

You can also run your heat pump on dehumidify/dry mode too. 




scuwp
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  #3382389 10-Jun-2025 09:52
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Definitely look at a ventilation system, as a relatively new house I am surprised this wasn't included in the build.  I would recommend Smartvent, and to avoid HRV.  I wouldn't live in a house without one now.    

 

GZ is brimming with threads on the topic of ventilation systems so I won't re-hash age old opinions.      





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wellygary
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  #3382390 10-Jun-2025 09:54
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johno1234:

 

Modern homes seal like a bottle. Maybe just open a window from time to time to freshen the air. It doesn't have to be long enough to make the house cold and your heat pump will defeat that if well sized. Are you venting your laundry and kitchen?

 

 

And bathroom too, 

 

Rather than tackling the symptoms, (dehumidifier etc) look for the causes, 

 

Run extractor fans when cooking and washing and leave them running for up to 30 mins after you have finished, 

 

A heat pump will dry out the air also , 

 

But TBH IMHO a single 8KW heat pump is undersized for a 200sqm house, you should look at also having a smaller unit near the bedrooms. 


lxsw20
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  #3382393 10-Jun-2025 10:13
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I am guessing not thermally broken windows, in which case that is normal.

 

 

 

Leave some windows open while at work, its much cheaper and easier to heat dry air than damp. 


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timmmay
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  #3382395 10-Jun-2025 10:19
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That is on the high side of what I'd expect, but it looks like aluminum joinery probably without a thermal break is contributing to the problem. We have an old fairly well sealed house with a positive pressure ventilation system we run during the day, PVC double glazed windows, ducted heat pump, in Wellington. We get no condensation on the PVC frames but comparable amounts of water on the windows on cold nights. It's more of a light mist usually - today we had none even though it was 5 degrees overnight, yesterday when it got down to 2 degrees or so there was a light mist the half way up most of the windows.

 

Ventilation, which can run during the day rather than 24/7, will reduce it. Positive pressure is ok, heat recovery ventilation (the technology, not the company HRV) would be a little better. Blinds or tightly fitting curtains would probably help, we have roman blinds that are good, and you can feel how much cold rolling down the windows stops when we close them. Dehumidifiers treat the symptoms rather than the problem.

 

We use a window vacuum to remove the water so it doesn't go straight back into the air as the house warms up. We have the highest end Karcher window vac with the yellow and black blades, it makes a horrible screeching squealing noise if you use it on half wet half dry windows when there's just a bit of condensation at the bottom. Their cheaper models are much quieter but have other disadvantages. I might try the Bosch window vac when this one fails, but it'll probably last years. 


johno1234
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  #3382427 10-Jun-2025 11:54
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wellygary:

 

johno1234:

 

Modern homes seal like a bottle. Maybe just open a window from time to time to freshen the air. It doesn't have to be long enough to make the house cold and your heat pump will defeat that if well sized. Are you venting your laundry and kitchen?

 

 

And bathroom too, 

 

Rather than tackling the symptoms, (dehumidifier etc) look for the causes, 

 

Run extractor fans when cooking and washing and leave them running for up to 30 mins after you have finished, 

 

A heat pump will dry out the air also , 

 

But TBH IMHO a single 8KW heat pump is undersized for a 200sqm house, you should look at also having a smaller unit near the bedrooms. 

 

 

We have an 8.5KW heat pump in our 64m2 kitchen/living area which has a whole end wall of single glazing . The house is about 200m2 but I don't think leaving the door open to the hall would warm the whole house very well - should try it though. 

 

The heat pump has been in for two months now and I can compare the power bills to last year online - there's been between no or barely any power use increase. These things are so fast and efficient. The schedule runs it from 05:30-07:30 daily and in the evening we use it as needed. Last year we were running the whole-house diesel central heating to keep the living area warm (the baffles in the vents don't work that well) and spent a little over $2k on diesel for the winter!  Still a few months of cold weather to go but so far the cash savings look promising.

 

I do wish I could see the instantaneous power consumption on the heat pump.


timmmay
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  #3382465 10-Jun-2025 14:01
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johno1234:

 

I do wish I could see the instantaneous power consumption on the heat pump.

 

 

I use Shelley EM Pro for that. There are many other options, but keep in mind it's often better to use a monitoring clamp than send power direct through a device because power passing through a device will eventually burn it out. Even though this one is rated 16A I've seen pics of it burning out when used around 10A. That first one I linked to needs to be installed in the switchboard by an electrician and works well. This one may also be a slightly option, also needs to be installed by an electrician.


boosacnoodle
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  #3382469 10-Jun-2025 14:16
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wellygary:

 

Run extractor fans when cooking and washing and leave them running for up to 30 mins after you have finished

 

 

Is that realistic to expect? They're very noisy, or at least mine is.


timmmay
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  #3382483 10-Jun-2025 14:32
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I run my extractor fan when cooking, turn it off when we're eating, then turn it on again when we move into the lounge. If you have an open plan kitchen dining lounge area it would probably need one of the super quiet units with the fan in the roof.


 
 
 

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traderstu
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  #3382488 10-Jun-2025 14:36
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boosacnoodle:

 

wellygary:

 

Run extractor fans when cooking and washing and leave them running for up to 30 mins after you have finished

 

 

Is that realistic to expect? They're very noisy, or at least mine is.

 

 

Schweigen  are quiet (that's what we have). And there's another one - I can't remember the brand. The fans are at the top of the flue rather than in the unit in the kitchen 


mattwnz
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  #3382492 10-Jun-2025 14:52
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If you had thermally broken windows, it wouldn't be that bad. You would still have some though. I think it is now fairly common since the changes to the building code to  now get thermally broken window frames on new builds. Basically opening the windows will get rid of condonation within half an hour I found. Although I don't generally have a problem. It is worse I have found if you run a wood burner or cook without good ventilation. Or if you have gas heating.

 

 

 

Do you have heat pumps, because I think you can run though in a dehumidifier mode


timmmay
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  #3382498 10-Jun-2025 15:17
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Dehumidifier mode is just cooling, you don't really want that in winter.


bfginger
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  #3382531 10-Jun-2025 16:44
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Before you take any action you ought to find out what the relative humidity levels are in your house. I was going to say to buy a humidity meter (hygrometer) but the options and prices in NZ don't look very appealing unless someone can suggest something. Maybe you could borrow someone else's dehumidifier with a humidistat. 

 

RH levels will be different close to the floor compared to close to the ceiling so check the spread. Mould begins growing above 60% so ideally you want it no higher than that; it's a bell curve so the higher above 60% the faster it grows; 65% is far less trouble than 80%. 

 

"If a dehumidifier is the way to go what should I look for? I don't know to much about them except how many litres per day they can remove, even then there is big price differences though, for example a 20L Mitsubishi can go for close to 1k and a 20L midea at Trade Depot goes for $300 and it has WiFi and a humidistat, there must be some advantages to the Mitsi for the price difference?"

 

The litres ratings are for operation in tropical conditions; most dehumidifiers are compressor based meaning their efficacy drops with temperature. Inferior quality compressor dehumidifiers may be only designed for the tropics and some have a habit of burning up when old. Many dehumidifiers have ineptly designed controls - the Mtisu is no nonsense other than I don't see how to use the quiet mode and humidity target at the same time. 

 

The price of the Mitsubishi is cyclical with the weather, you can see this on the Pricespy history; last November the 22L was cleared at $699. The 27L Panasonic is $748 from Noels/Heathcoats. The Olympia Splendid 24L (PBtech) looks to me like a better chance than the Midea. 

 

Dessicant dehumidifiers are insensitive to temperature but efficiency varies wildly between models so you need to be careful.

 

"Run extractor fans when cooking and washing and leave them running for up to 30 mins after you have finished,  They're very noisy, or at least mine is."

 

There are models with the motor situated away from the living space so they're much quieter to operate. 


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