pdh:

 

Meant to mention two additional ways to make the wood-burner more efficient:

 

(a) Use an 'Eco' or 'Heatsaver' flue kit - that cools the attic flue casing using air drawn from the attic space - & not your lounge.
This is a worthwhile thing to spec (over a standard flue kit) - at not much extra cost.

(b) Firenzo's optional 'Outside Air Adaptor' kit that ducts outdoor air into the firebox works well.
If you are heating the space with another heat source (we have a geo-exchange heat pump and hydronic heat) then it makes even more sense.
You're not constantly removing warm air from the area around your wood-burner.
But burning cold air drawn immediately from the outside into the firebox.

 

As I have the Firenzo in the centre of an open-plan living/dining/TV area, I used some 4" plastic plumbing pipe to duct air from the rear wall of the house (about 7 m) and up through the floor - to then attach to Firenzo's metal duct kit. IOW the plastic pipe bringing in cold air is below the floor and thermally safe from the heat of the fireplace. Down below, it runs across the ceiling of a workshop - but it could go in a ceiling cavity. I would say that it draws better (when starting a fire) than if I was just pulling air from the lounge.

 

For any of you who read the Jean Auel (Clan of the Cave Bear) books - that was a prehistoric trick used in longhouses.

 

just be aware that there is fireplaces with FAKE outside air setups. you need to check the actual fireplace that the air intake is sealed all the way into the fire. some put fake plate on the back and call it an outside air intake. the fake ones take room air and you have a hole in the wall/floor to refill the room with air. but that makes the room super drafty even when your not using the fireplace. a proper one makes the fireplace completely sealed from the house.

also its not uncommon for ash to get blown back down the air intake. so make sure you use materials that can handle embers and you are able to get in and clean it.