Replacing a capacitor / fuse

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rayonline

1662 posts

Uber Geek

#193492 13-Mar-2016 12:24

Someone used a printer from the USA 120V into NZ 240V. Smoke. Opened up, one buldged capacitor and a blown fuse.

1. What is the difference between these $6 for (1) unit or $6 for 5 units?

http://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/4909327/

http://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/5262073/

2. Re: fuses. Some have a straight wire inside and others have a little ball unit on the wire? Any functional difference?

Thanks.

Andib

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#1512249 13-Mar-2016 12:31

They're both $6ea The Panasonic just come in a pack of 5

Personally I'd go to the Nichicon

SATTV

1015 posts

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#1512253 13-Mar-2016 12:39

Also check the bridge rectifier or diodes and MOV's ( Metal Oxide Varisters )as they can pop as well.

The fuse, the coil of wire puts the fuse wire under tension so when a fault occurs and the fuse blows it is pulled away and prevents arching and ( I think it is called the chroma affect )

probably a slow blow fuse.

When you fix the printer it still will also work at 110v

BTW the panasonic caps have a better temp / time rating.

John

I know enough to be dangerous

Sideface

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#1512254 13-Mar-2016 12:43

IF you can repair the printer, how will you use it? (unless it's a multi-voltage printer, if such a thing exists)

Printers draw lot of current, and any step-down transformer big enough to handle that current would cost more than the printer - and be big, heavy, and ugly.

Sideface

gzt

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#1512258 13-Mar-2016 12:52

rayonline:
2. Re: fuses. Some have a straight wire inside and others have a little ball unit on the wire? Any functional difference?

Yes, affects the speed of the fuse and other characteristics of the current profile. There is a marking code:

https://www.swe-check.com.au/pages/learn_fuse_speed.php

rayonline

1662 posts

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#1512259 13-Mar-2016 12:56

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sjo9amwf8swf6os/2016-03-12%2021.26.43.jpg?dl=0

That is the PCB. It is a photo printer A3 for my hobby got it for free essentially after. I have a step down transformer. Other stuff no markings.

By the way what is the yellow box thing there outta interest?

Yes Canon pro printers at least are multi voltage but no the this Epson.

richms

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#1512271 13-Mar-2016 13:32

Have a look on aliexpress and ebay for a replacement power supply board. I got one for a monitor from there for way less than the cost of the capacitors to re-cap a dying monitor. Might luck out and find one for the 240v version of the printer too, so you can do away with the transformer.

Richard rich.ms

Fred99

10335 posts

Uber Geek

#1512272 13-Mar-2016 13:34

The yellow thing is a transformer.

What model of printer is it?

I have a 230v R1800 in the basement. Most components are identical to the R2400, I expect including the power supply board.

Free to good home - print head is terminally clogged, but everything else presumably ok.

Edit - google tells me that you've got an R1900, so the R1800 power board won't be much use.

rayonline

1662 posts

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#1512273 13-Mar-2016 13:36

Aliexpress unfortunately no. EBay 100us or 100nz from Italy. Its a r2880.

Fred99

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#1512276 13-Mar-2016 13:41

rayonline: Aliexpress unfortunately no. EBay 100us or 100nz from Italy. Its a r2880.

I think you'll find that an R1900 power board may be identical.

Ebay for NZ$45 approx:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-SUPPLY-BOARD-FOR-EPSON-R1900-C698-PSB-EPS-124-/291335157904

rayonline

1662 posts

Uber Geek

#1512395 13-Mar-2016 16:53

Fred99:

rayonline: Aliexpress unfortunately no. EBay 100us or 100nz from Italy. Its a r2880.

I think you'll find that an R1900 power board may be identical.

Ebay for NZ$45 approx:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-SUPPLY-BOARD-FOR-EPSON-R1900-C698-PSB-EPS-124-/291335157904

Yes thanks. The 1900 printer power board the same part number as mine. If I get a 230/240V power board from HKG / China - the main board should be fine right?

$25US delivered on this page.

Looks ok?

Fred99

10335 posts

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#1512439 13-Mar-2016 18:02

l'd go for the refurb that looks the same. For US$25 it's worth a shot.

Hopefully the main board is okay. If it needs replacing, then I think you're in to the can of worms where individual head calibration data from factory calibration is stored on an EEPROM chip, so you'd need to go through the same process with recalibration as is needed with head replacement.

At least the OEM service manual is easy to find.

There's a "high voltage module". I'm assuming this is for the circuits driving the piezo printheads, and the supply is from the power board - curiously the test voltage should be within the broad range of 240-500v.

Lord knows if it's actually possible to swap a 115v power board with a 230v one - and for the printer to work and not emit smoke. I'm guessing yes - but with low level of confidence.

rayonline

1662 posts

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#1512500 13-Mar-2016 19:23

Yes, I got the service manual. I found I didn't need to take the control panel off to access the bottom section for the PCB's.

I have got $24US item 10% discounted via the smart app. I will report back. Yes, I read about the alignment and EEPROM issues. $36.00NZ just makes it a no brainer. It looks like the USA version has a fixed in AC cable. The Asian version looks like removable or they did a clean cut. Will report back but there is the 3 week for the freight.

rayonline

1662 posts

Uber Geek

#1530930 12-Apr-2016 16:50

Just reporting back. The power board installs and the printer works.

Re: this printer. I think the guy took it here from the US and haven't used it for 5yrs, his airline itinerary was still in the box and his spare ink cartridges are dated as such. Cleared up all the other ink nozzles apart from 25% of the vivid magenta. Perhaps that is why I am lacking a bit of magenta, dull skintones and purple shoe lace that look more blue. Will play use a paper profile by Red River which I got great results from my older Epson printer. The newer printer would probably give better b/w prints are more subtle in the darker tones with its light light black. For general color prints with the original Epson profiles the difference is day and night however if I use a better paper profile, assuming the lack of magenta is the nozzle issue, that aside I don't see much difference despite the 10yr in technology difference.