depends what model the oven is, every seal i have ever changed is different, some times you may also need to change the hinges as well as the springs tend to wear out

It's a white 'Classic' model  Installed 1995.  Hope hinges aren't needed.. don't fancy pulling the door to bits!

a white classic model could mean many things/types/models, you need to have a look at the back of the oven or just inside the door and get the model number and find out what type of seal you need, most just slide on or clip on and are easy as, as for door hinges that are easy as a philips screwdriver to pull the casing to bits and usually about 2 screws holding the hinges in place

I did it once. There was one or two screw brackets, the rest was push on. The oven was stuffed though, we had to replace it soon after. Seals are $50 - $100, so not too bad, given a new oven is $900 to $3000.

I've got some seals coming..  hopefully it'll be apparent how it fits.  I stopped taking the old one off now

as it was falling to pieces.  Perhaps if it doesn't solve the problem ( leaking and makes kitchen smell)

I'll ask back here about replacing springs?

There's no Model number inside, but on the back

FPRA610MAWS WW

87111  EHD112555

I sent photos to F&P Cust support who IDd theh seal.   As you say, $60.

In all other respects, going well and just needed to replace thermostat a while back.

Slight aside, but on my oven the door is regularly not pushing up tight on the oven seal.

I periodically remove the door section, get a crow bar in the sockets and bend them back up, then reinstate the door, which now angles back into the oven properly.

This door has two flat steel sections which kind of flop around, but fit snug into the oven. Eitehr side of the cavity.

I'm hoping but not confident seals will be enough.  May need the crowbar treatment too.  Or a jackhammer!

Worst case scenario, a new oven.  And I see HN are about 300 less than Noel L.

the oven replacement thermostat would possably a RC1 50-300 deg