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geekIT

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#207572 3-Jan-2017 15:24
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My nephew has just bought a house, it's about 15 years old.

 

The place seems to have been properly built but I'm curious about the bathroom wall heater.

 

The isolating switch seems to be just an ordinary light switch. Is this correct?

 

The heater is a Goldair 3508W (the manual was in the bathroom cupboard) and it's a 2.4KW model. It has a pull cord.

 

The height seems right - 1900 off the floor and 300 from the ceiling.

 

 





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RunningMan
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  #1697893 3-Jan-2017 15:30
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@gregmcc is the expert for this, however the likes of PDL switches are generally rated to at least 16A, so it should be OK current wise. As long as the switch is appropriate for the physical placement in the room (correct IP rating depending on the moisture zone) it should be OK.




geekIT

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  #1697894 3-Jan-2017 15:32
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Thanks for that. The switch is the same as the bathroom light switch - I assume that one would be kosher.





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gregmcc
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  #1697906 3-Jan-2017 16:21
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at around 15 years old most likely either PDL 500 or 600 series, could be HPM or clipsal, but without a picture it's a bit like saying it's a fuel cap for a car (so many different types).

 

 

 

Post a picture and i'll give you my informed opinion




geekIT

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  #1698269 4-Jan-2017 12:22
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Thanks Greg, here's one, they're both the same:

 





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gregmcc
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  #1698340 4-Jan-2017 13:53
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Looks like HPM the current rating will be molded in to the rocker part of the switch (the small edge at the bottom)

I can't tell from this picture. But most likely 20amp


gregmcc
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  #1698341 4-Jan-2017 13:53
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Looks like HPM the current rating will be molded in to the rocker part of the switch (the small edge at the bottom)

I can't tell from this picture. But most likely 20amp


 
 
 
 

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geekIT

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  #1698435 4-Jan-2017 15:18
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Thanks. I took a look, it's 10amp.





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geekIT

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  #1698810 5-Jan-2017 12:06
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Re my previous post (which I can't edit - I guess it's because it was a 'quick reply' - must remember that) I meant to say, 'Is a 10 amp switch adequate for a 2.5 KW heater?'





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Jase2985
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  #1698812 5-Jan-2017 12:32
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you say 2.4kw in the first place

 

P=VxI

 

2400/240 = 10amps so should be fine

 

ps you only get about an hour to edit a post


geekIT

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  #1698813 5-Jan-2017 12:33
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Cheers for that Jase2985 :-)

 

 

 

Edit: Shucks, better remember that, too :-)





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Bung
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  #1698827 5-Jan-2017 13:13
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It's another on/off functional switch. If it can't be locked against inadvertent operation it's not an isolating switch. The circuit breaker would be the isolation point.

 
 
 

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geekIT

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  #1698835 5-Jan-2017 13:29
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Bung, are you saying the heater doesn't need an 'isolating' switch?





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Jase2985
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  #1698853 5-Jan-2017 13:52
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no everything requires an isolation switch, not everything requires an on/off switch


geekIT

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  #1698883 5-Jan-2017 14:35
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I give up...





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Jase2985
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  #1698936 5-Jan-2017 16:44
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geekIT:

 

I give up...

 

 

well stop being so abrasive and telling they are wrong when they give you the correct terminology for something. this isnt the first thread in the last couple of days where its happened

 

it will get to a point where no one will want to help you.

 

 

 

 


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