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xcon

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#243559 18-Dec-2018 12:02
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I am looking to get a 20ft shipping container to use a workshop

 

 

 

Doing some research and the problem being a tin-can is that they can get very hot inside in summer and then in winter it can be prone to condensation inside

 

 

 

To prevent condensation people insulate the walls of the shipping containers on the inside with  pink batts then braced and covered with gib board

 

 

 

Also ventilation is key , like installing a "whirly bird" on the roof of the shipping container

 

 

 

I was wondering what if the insulation was on the outside of the shipping container using polystyrene insulation again the walls and roofs then braced and covered with plywood ,would this help with condensation and cooling ?

 

 

 

or

 

 

 

I was wondering what if the insulation was on the outside of the shipping container and there was a "air gap" between the polystyrene insulation and the shipping container

 

 

 

or

 

 

 

having the insulation on the outside defeats the purpose and won't work

 

 

 

Any idea?

 

 

 

(the reason for insulation on the outside is not loose the space on the interior walls to insulation) 


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nickb800
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  #2147067 18-Dec-2018 12:56
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Simplest approach would be to insulate the inside - could do 50mm polystyrene glued to the container walls/ceiling with a thin lining glued to the polystyrene for durability e.g. 5mm plywood or MDF. You would only loose 110mm (2x55mm) off the width and length of the container. 

 

Insulating and cladding the outside would be a lot of work as you need complicated detailing around the door to keep heat out of the container and water out of your cavity. That said, a common problem with containers is rusting roof due to water sitting on the flat roof, so if you framed a pitched roof with eaves as part of this, then this would extend the lifespan of your container. 

 

 




mudguard
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  #2147069 18-Dec-2018 12:57
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A friend of mine in Alexandra did this. Has insulation, glazed sliding door and heatpumps. He used for about year whilst his office and workshop were being built.
Might be worth giving Dougal a call.
https://www.shockcraft.co.nz

DonH
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  #2147079 18-Dec-2018 13:19
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Get an old reefer? (Refrigerated container) Pre-insulated...

 

Or get a regular container and have the inside sprayfoam insulated. If you use batts you need to put a moisture barrier between the batts and the gib-board.

 

You're better off insulating and lining the inside, if you do the outside you have to go to some trouble to make sure it is weathertight to prevent water ingress behind the cladding.




gehenna
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  #2147082 18-Dec-2018 13:22
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"Workshop"

 


SirHumphreyAppleby
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  #2147083 18-Dec-2018 13:25
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DonH:

 

Get an old reefer? (Refrigerated container) Pre-insulated...

 

 

Used reefers aren't a good idea as they may have moisture trapped in the walls or be contaminated by their previous content.


xcon

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  #2147146 18-Dec-2018 14:52
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Thanks guys :)

 

I seen a youtube video were sprayfoam insulated was used to insulate the inside

 

I didn't even know this "If you use batts you need to put a moisture barrier between the batts and the gib-board" hehe tongue-out

 

 

 

Interior insulation seems to be the way to go and common on my research

 

 

 

Thanks Nickb800 , I think polystyrene and plywood on the interior walls maybe the option to go with

 

Thanks for the heads-up on the flat-roof that is common rust area :)

 

 

 

 


 
 
 
 

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DonH
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  #2147203 18-Dec-2018 15:44
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I hadn't thought of polystyrene and plywood. Easier than studs and gib board, also easier to DIY. smile

 

You can get foam sheets with aluminium foil on one side. Seal all the joints between the sheets with tape, to prevent moisture getting through and condensing on the steel in winter. It's not usually done in NZ houses, but in countries where it gets much colder in winter a vapour barrier on the "warm" side of the insulation is often required by by building regulations. Spray foam is popular because it provides both insulation and a barrier.


MikeAqua
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  #2147215 18-Dec-2018 16:09
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+1 for get a reefer - pre-insulated and often stainless lined too. 

 

They also have an end compartment that is open on one side - where is where the refrigeration plant was.  This is great spot for a compressor, generator, LPG bottles or some other plant you want outside the main work space.  They also have air ducting from the plant compartment into the floor. If you rig up an extractor fan in the roof, air will be sucked in through the floor, up and out of the roof.





Mike


mudguard
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  #2147365 18-Dec-2018 20:50
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Actually that must be what my friend in Alexandra had, a reefer. As the heatpump unit was in the end where I guess the original one would've have been. It was used all through their winters and summers.


Goosey
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  #2147435 18-Dec-2018 21:49
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These links should give you some really good ideas....

 

 

 

https://www.royalwolf.co.nz/container-modifications

 

http://containersmore.co.nz/customised-container-new.html

 

https://www.boxman.co.nz/shipping-containers.aspx


tdgeek
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  #2147542 19-Dec-2018 07:59
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There was a container home, 40 ft on Stuff just the other day but I can't find it. They insulated the outside, to avoid reducing the interior space. Even though insulation insulates, if the metal was baking in sun or freezing in winter, thats bound to have an effect, but insulating the outside and covering that with cladding means the metal is not going to have any opportunity to use its properties of conducting heat and cold


 
 
 

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sudo
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  #2148297 20-Dec-2018 11:46
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I saw a container with a hinged roof with solar panels. That would reduce the sunlight/rain on the roof and give you a self-powering project :-D

 

And why not put a small vent on each end of the container. Have a fan, on the shady side, to push cooler air in summer and pull out air in winter.


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