Oiling cheap outdoor hardwood furniture

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CokemonZ

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#248039 8-Mar-2019 12:52

Hey diyers

I brought a few cheap outdoor wooden furniture items from the warehouse as I spent too much on the deck and couldn't afford to buy the furniture we desired.

This and a few other similar things not online :https://www.thewarehouse.co.nz/p/living-co-verona-bar-setting/R2223450.html

This is temporary, say 2 - 3 years.

However to keep it looking ok and not rotten it says to oil it. From my limited experience you should use a similar product as to what has gone on before. The instructions just say to use furniture oil.

What should I oil it with? water based or solvent (oil) based.

I have some resene solvent based decking/furniture oil I use for some other stuff we have, but wanted to make sure I don't ruin it straight away.

Any way to test (other than the old spot and hope method)?

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#2193587 8-Mar-2019 13:39

It should have come oiled. Let it weather for a couple of months so all the solvent has fully evaporated then you're probably fine either way. But still do a test patch in a hidden spot. If nothing else, you may hate the colour outcome and want to get something a little different. Been there!

CokemonZ

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#2193588 8-Mar-2019 13:46

You are right - it did come oiled.

Instructions do say to oil it straight away so was going to give it a go.

mdf

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#2193594 8-Mar-2019 13:53

Hmm, that makes it a bit trickier. You really don't want to mix oil and water on anything, much less something clear.

You could obviously try sniffing it; a strong scent of solvent would point towards solvent-based but if it were that strong you probably would have noticed already.

Another test is meths on a rag of a contrasting colour to the stain and gently rub it somewhere hidden. If the colour bleeds out into the rag it is probably water-based. But unfortunately the result of that isn't conclusive with clear coats either.

CokemonZ

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#2193598 8-Mar-2019 14:00

I'll try meths (not today it's pissing down).

Having a look, water is somewhat beading on top, so might not be critical.

Still when it dries up will do the hidden patch test with the solvent/oil stuff I already have.

Thanks for the heads up.

Bung

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#2193606 8-Mar-2019 14:29

The Warehouse instructions talk of oiling the furniture 3 times a year suggesting that a. The original coat wasn't very thick and b. It wasn't water based as AFAIK water based doesn't recoat as easily as solvent based.

CokemonZ

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#2193608 8-Mar-2019 14:35

That's what I thought when I read the instructions. Better to oil it now rather than get grumpy when it gets mouldy/goes grey in a month.

I will try the oil one I have now and see how it goes. I'll post back here for posterity.

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neb

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#2193612 8-Mar-2019 14:57

mdf:
Hmm, that makes it a bit trickier. You really don't want to mix oil and water on anything, much less something clear.

You could obviously try sniffing it; a strong scent of solvent would point towards solvent-based but if it were that strong you probably would have noticed already.

Another test is meths on a rag of a contrasting colour to the stain and gently rub it somewhere hidden. If the colour bleeds out into the rag it is probably water-based. But unfortunately the result of that isn't conclusive with clear coats either.

Another approach is to assume, given where it came from, that they've used the cheapest, easiest-to-apply, cheapest, and above all cheapest oil you can possibly get to treat it. Which would probably be BLO, boiled linseed oil. In which case put over another coat of BLO, let it dry thoroughly, and then put over a coat or two of polyurethane varnish, thinning the first coat(s) with turps so it'll soak in better.

openmedia

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#2193616 8-Mar-2019 15:10

I wouldn't use varnish on this kind of furniture - good furniture oil should be more than sufficient. If you put enough regular coats on water will bead on it like it is varnished anyway.

We recently got some wooden chairs from the warehouse and used Wattyl Furniture oil on them with no issues and great results.

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Malboo

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#2193622 8-Mar-2019 15:21

You can buy the oil from Mitre Ten in comes in a small container I don't know the price as I was looking at the outdoor furniture but did see the oil nearby probably the same in Bunnings go ask what they recommend outdoor hardwood can crack so it is best if it is oiled

CokemonZ

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#2193708 8-Mar-2019 16:33

neb:
mdf:

Hmm, that makes it a bit trickier. You really don't want to mix oil and water on anything, much less something clear.

You could obviously try sniffing it; a strong scent of solvent would point towards solvent-based but if it were that strong you probably would have noticed already.

Another test is meths on a rag of a contrasting colour to the stain and gently rub it somewhere hidden. If the colour bleeds out into the rag it is probably water-based. But unfortunately the result of that isn't conclusive with clear coats either.

Another approach is to assume, given where it came from, that they've used the cheapest, easiest-to-apply, cheapest, and above all cheapest oil you can possibly get to treat it. Which would probably be BLO, boiled linseed oil. In which case put over another coat of BLO, let it dry thoroughly, and then put over a coat or two of polyurethane varnish, thinning the first coat(s) with turps so it'll soak in better.

I have used BLO in the past - still have some in the garage I think. Honestly - hate the stuff.

I have this resene product I use on some other, better furniture we have, so will stick with that as a solvent based solution seems to be the consensus.

CokemonZ

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#2193709 8-Mar-2019 16:34

openmedia:

I wouldn't use varnish on this kind of furniture - good furniture oil should be more than sufficient. If you put enough regular coats on water will bead on it like it is varnished anyway.

We recently got some wooden chairs from the warehouse and used Wattyl Furniture oil on them with no issues and great results.

That inspires confidence. Thanks!

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neb

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#2194520 9-Mar-2019 15:15

CokemonZ:
I have used BLO in the past - still have some in the garage I think. Honestly - hate the stuff.

Oh, yeah, never use BLO as a top coat, but it's fine for filling the pores in the wood and bringing out the grain. That's why I suggested the varnish top coat to protect the wood after the BLO has gone on.

Having said that, BLO on timber you're not going to be coming in contact with, e.g. exposed ceiling beams, is OK. Mind you even then I'd still put a thin coat of varnish over to protect it, since mould loves linseed oil if it hasn't been treated with fungicide first.

sootyandsweep

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#2194931 10-Mar-2019 09:55

We have a table and chairs bought 3 years ago. Couple of times a year with this and it comes up like new. https://www.thewarehouse.co.nz/p/outdoor-furniture-oil/R1926312.html

CokemonZ

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#2194997 10-Mar-2019 11:47

Ok.

I have this and will report back.

[url=https://shop.resene.co.nz/resene-furniture-and-decking-oil]

neb

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#2195877 11-Mar-2019 14:48

CokemonZ: Ok.

I have this and will report back.

[url=https://shop.resene.co.nz/resene-furniture-and-decking-oil]

From the MSDS, it's an alkyd resin in a range of mineral spirits, fortified with fungicides and UV stabilisers. Should do the job...

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